sweepersrgr8
"GET ER DONE"
When I bought this Truck, the rear window worked fine. then one day it would not go up(Ford really screwed us here). So I go through the next to impossible task of removing the window, so I could get to the motor. I checked DC, 13.8 volts down, closed the gate, 13.8 up.... bad motor right? Wrong! New motor , same problem.
Let me add this in... If your window gets stuck down, and you have to remove the window to get to the motor. Get someone to hold the regulator arms down while you unbolt the motor. It took 18 stitches, and a week of pain killers to learn that lesson.
So I connected both motors to my mustang, both work fine. Someone told me that the dash switch could be bad, because this is where the motor gets it's ground from.....WRONG($175+$36 now). New lesson though... the passengers side motor of the Mustang('89) is identical to the Bronco rear.
The window is not binding, I have it in now ...I just push it up and down by hand, but would really like to have the power back.
I have checked all switches, even the continuity switch that won't let you roll the window up if the gate is open. The key switch passes power, but the motor still don't work.
I have noticed that almost every parts supplier for big Broncos carries a replacement wiring harness for the rear gate. Is there a problem with the old harness to where it supplies voltage, but not enough amperage to operate the motor? Is there a fusable link in the harness that could be weak, but not blown?
Any input would be appreciated, I am almost at my wits end on this one.
I stole this '89 EB Bronco for $800, 351HO EFI, 3 speed auto, Traction Lock rear(front diff is open..3WD), not even a hint of rust anywhere, Interior perfect, Power everything. The only thing I have done to date is a full tuneup, and replace the fuel pressure regulator. She runs great and has power to spare.
Sorry I can't send a pic...file too big. will try to fix.
Let me add this in... If your window gets stuck down, and you have to remove the window to get to the motor. Get someone to hold the regulator arms down while you unbolt the motor. It took 18 stitches, and a week of pain killers to learn that lesson.
So I connected both motors to my mustang, both work fine. Someone told me that the dash switch could be bad, because this is where the motor gets it's ground from.....WRONG($175+$36 now). New lesson though... the passengers side motor of the Mustang('89) is identical to the Bronco rear.
The window is not binding, I have it in now ...I just push it up and down by hand, but would really like to have the power back.
I have checked all switches, even the continuity switch that won't let you roll the window up if the gate is open. The key switch passes power, but the motor still don't work.
I have noticed that almost every parts supplier for big Broncos carries a replacement wiring harness for the rear gate. Is there a problem with the old harness to where it supplies voltage, but not enough amperage to operate the motor? Is there a fusable link in the harness that could be weak, but not blown?
Any input would be appreciated, I am almost at my wits end on this one.
I stole this '89 EB Bronco for $800, 351HO EFI, 3 speed auto, Traction Lock rear(front diff is open..3WD), not even a hint of rust anywhere, Interior perfect, Power everything. The only thing I have done to date is a full tuneup, and replace the fuel pressure regulator. She runs great and has power to spare.
Sorry I can't send a pic...file too big. will try to fix.