Pulls to left

[mustangtoby]

New to me Bronco, 69 with almost all 76 running gear, real nice, clean. 3.5 inch lift, rear locker, dana 44, power steering, power brakes, 76 "y" style tie rods. When I got it (3 weeks ago), it would turn all the way to the left, but not very far to the right. So I bought the fully indexed pitman arm from Wild Horses and installed it. It is exactly like the one I took off except I can clock it in 10 degree increments, where the old one would only install in 90 degree increments. So I centered the tires (straight ahead), pulled the pitman arm, centered the steering wheel, installed the new arm. They are both drop arms, look exactly the same, didn't change toe in, trac bar, anything else. Now it pulls to the left at highway speed. Not just a little bit, but a lot, enough to make it uncomfortable to drive. My gess is the worm gear in the box had a worn spot in the old "center", now it is trying to move back into the worn spot, making it pull. Any ideas? Any help would be great!

 

[Bully Bob]

New to me Bronco, 69 with almost all 76 running gear, real nice, clean. 3.5 inch lift, rear locker, dana 44, power steering, power brakes, 76 "y" style tie rods. When I got it (3 weeks ago), it would turn all the way to the left, but not very far to the right. So I bought the fully indexed pitman arm from Wild Horses and installed it. It is exactly like the one I took off except I can clock it in 10 degree increments, where the old one would only install in 90 degree increments. So I centered the tires (straight ahead), pulled the pitman arm, centered the steering wheel, installed the new arm. They are both drop arms, look exactly the same, didn't change toe in, trac bar, anything else. Now it pulls to the left at highway speed. Not just a little bit, but a lot, enough to make it uncomfortable to drive. My gess is the worm gear in the box had a worn spot in the old "center", now it is trying to move back into the worn spot, making it pull. Any ideas? Any help would be great!

As hi-lighted above...the "Y" style doesn't work well with lift & large tires.

The older, origional "T" style is recommended.

(see page 62 in JBG cat.) (page 29 in W-Horses)

I would "center the box" first (equal turn dist. left & right) ...then attach pitman straight back. If the tie rod won't line up with wheels straight....adjust, or replace all linkage with the older style which is adjustable, & stronger.

Track bar & track bar drop bracket come into play as well. (Do you have the drop bracket..?)

Lastly pull the steering wheel & center it...with everything else being "square"

HTH

B

 

[mustangtoby]

As hi-lighted above...the "Y" style doesn't work well with lift & large tires. The older, origional "T" style is recommended.

(see page 62 in JBG cat.) (page 29 in W-Horses)

I would "center the box" first (equal turn dist. left & right) ...then attach pitman straight back. If the tie rod won't line up with wheels straight....adjust, or replace all linkage with the older style which is adjustable, & stronger.

Track bar & track bar drop bracket come into play as well. (Do you have the drop bracket..?)

Lastly pull the steering wheel & center it...with everything else being "square"

HTH

B

I agree, the "T" style is better. I have a 3.5 inch lift, and I do have a trac bar drop bracket. I have aleady done what you state above, and that's when it started pulling to the left. My box has about 2" inches of play, and it does tend to wander a little. I think my next step is to put a new steering box on it, as I have a set of 33x14.5 swampers to go on it soon. Right now it has 32" bfg all season on it. Thanx for the input!

 

[Bully Bob]

"I have aleady done what you state above, and that's when it started pulling to the left"

Don't think so....,

You said you did this....

"pulled the pitman arm, centered the steering wheel, installed the new arm"

I said...,

I would "center the box" first (equal turn dist. left & right) ...then attach pitman straight back

Centering the st-wheel negates the "centering" of the steering box out-put shaft.

 

[mustangtoby]

My bad, sorry, terminology incorrect. Here's what I did. I put the tires straight ahead, then pulled the old pitman arm off, then centered the steering box ( using the steering wheel). I counted turns from stop to stop, 4 1/4 turns, turned back 2 1/8, then mounted the new pitman arm. Now I can steer from stop to stop without maxing out the steering box at full turn. I do still have to pull the steering wheel and center it, right now it drives me crazy! I have found a "T" style tie rod setup, just want to replace the ends before I install it. And I think I will have to get a different pitman arm for the "T" style tie rods. When I bought the one I have, Wild Horses wanted to know which style I had.

 

[Bully Bob]

"...right now it drives me crazy!"

Don't blame ya...I can't stand a veh. that doesn't steer straight, bounces, shutters, etc. ...!!!

Good job..... I think you'll be happy with your new set-up.....!!

Do post your results...it may help many others with simular problems.

B

P.S. There are some suttle diff. between D 44's (when installing a "T" system) depending on year of Mfg.

W. Horses is really up to speed on this subject. (Tir-rod lengths, end tapers, & P/arms)

(You may already know of this)

 

[mustangtoby]

actually found the drop trac bar bracket was a little loose, and needed new bushings. I now have bushings on the way, and after tightening the bracket and snugging the preload set ***** 1/4 turn, it isn't nearly as bad. I can live with it for a little while now, think I do need to rebuild the box eventually. Thanx for the info!

 

[Bully Bob]

"....and snugging the preload set ***** 1/4 turn...."

Sounds like you know this isn't a "good thing" It's just that...a preload ***** for building or re-building.

To much bind can do more harm than good.

Have fun out there...... B)

 

[mustangtoby]

Yeah, found out the hard way, ruined a steering box on an old f-250 when somone told me I could "tighten" the steering by tightening the "adjusting *****". It will take play out, will also make it hard to steer if you get it to tight. Even break the box! I've since been in a steering box, and understand them a little better. If you do turn one a little bit, turn your tires all the way to one side first. This way you are not in the worn spot in the center of the worm gear, you are on the end of it where it shouldn't be worn as bad. Of course, it should already be tight at that point anyway. And like has been previously stated, never turn more than 1/4 turn.