Power Steering(What else Needed)

[Karl Ray]

I purchased a 72 bronco at the start of the summer. When I was leaving they guy said oh yeah I have this box of misc that goes with it. I just put it to the side and was concerned about other issues. The other day was going through this box and found the following.(Pics @ http://www.downsouthstudio.biz/misc.html). My question is I think that is a stock power steering box with lower arm and a couple of ps Pumps. The other I think is for A/C. My 72 currently is manual steering and my question (finally) is what mods are needed to make this work. I have read through some posts and some have mentioned cutting off the rag joint and then cutting my steering column and inserting a type of U-joint. Is that a safe fix? Can/will the columns come apart at this joint? In normal driving conditions. I would assume the PS box and pump will be direct bolt ons? Are there any special allignments or things I need to be careful of? I don't know all the lingo, so any advice would be great.

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Karl.,

You're 3/4 of the way there. The pump with the hoses appears to have the stock bracket. The loose bracket on the other pump is needed as well...it attaches to the timing chain cover.

The box looks good.., don't get dirt in those two holes on top. It's a direct bolt on.

"....some have mentioned cutting off the rag joint and then cutting my steering column and inserting a type of U-joint."

Naw.., I can't see the upper part of that "upper" shaft.., BUT., if it's all there, it's simply remove the long orig. shaft & slip this one up into the column.

"Can/will the columns come apart at this (rag) joint?"

YES., so the rubber can be replaced as needed.

However., there are later design after market shafts available if preferred. (on some rigs., that rag joint will rub on the fender well so it may need a "dent" there.)

Turn the shaft to be sure there's no play in the box while watching the pitman arm.

You'll need a pully to mount on the harmonic balancer & most folks put a double sheeve pully on the waterpump & run the belt up around it as well.

The other pump & its mount bracket are good spares.

It's about a "two banana job"..!! /

Take a look at any older ford car/truck with a 302 & you'll see the set-up.

 

[Karl Ray]

As far as the shaft, that is all I have....just the part the connects to the power steering pump to the Rag joint. I don't have the rest that would go to/through the column. That is one of my concerns. My current manual shaft is just one long piece. Can I buy just the upper part and switch them out, or is it easier to do something else?

You'll need a pully to mount on the harmonic balancer & most folks put a double sheeve pully on the waterpump & run the belt up around it as well

So I will have a 2nd belt that I will wrap around the pully on the balancer and then again on the waterpump and finally the PS pump? Or is it the regular belt ?

Thanks for the help

 

[Bully Bob]

"Can I buy just the upper part and switch them out,"

Yes but., I need another pic of that rag joint. (I can't see what's sticking out the top of it) Was it "cut" off..?

"So I will have a 2nd belt that I will wrap around the pully on the balancer and then again on the waterpump and finally the PS pump?"

That's correct & the way the factory did it.

Some folks set'm up with a small belt direct to the P/S pump fr. the balancer.... seems to work as well.

When you pull the old shaft.., if memory serves, there's a small clamp, washers, a felt seal, bushing, etc. at the entrance, on the bottom of the column. Save & clean all that prior to assy. Same at the top under the steering wheel, there's some piecee-parts to be re-used.

If any of that stuff is N/G., it's all available.

P.S. Do fill-in your signature page, & other info. that shows on ev. post, so as to rec. accurate help. (see mine below) What you know 'bout your rig. , mods, etc.

Also where you are in profile. It's all "up-dateable"

 

[Karl Ray]

Bully Bob

If you could check out that website again, I added a couple more pics. Hopfully that will give you a better look at the rag joint.

Thanks

 

[Bully Bob]

OK.., that's good..! >-

That pic. shows the complete lower shaft. The rubber rag joint fits on that ******. Then the factory upper shaft (******) bolts to it with the rag joint sandwiched between. The joint acts as a vib., shock, noise dampener.. & allows flex.

With a new (used) factory upper shaft..., you're good to go. /

 

[Karl Ray]

That is great! I guess I can just check some of the bronco parts carriers and they will have that? That will be a great mod for the 72. Thanks for the help.

OK.., that's good..! >-

That pic. shows the complete lower shaft. The rubber rag joint fits on that ******. Then the factory upper shaft (******) bolts to it with the rag joint sandwiched between. The joint acts as a vib., shock, noise dampener.. & allows flex.

With a new (used) factory upper shaft..., you're good to go. /

 

[Karl Ray]

Bully Bob,

Is it possible to just by a new or use factory upper from one of the dealers? I talked with wildhorse and to me it sounded like they were guiding me to cut the manual shaft and use one of the adaptors that will join the original to the lower that I have? Can you guide me a bit.

OK.., that's good..! >-

That pic. shows the complete lower shaft. The rubber rag joint fits on that ******. Then the factory upper shaft (******) bolts to it with the rag joint sandwiched between. The joint acts as a vib., shock, noise dampener.. & allows flex.

With a new (used) factory upper shaft..., you're good to go. /

 

[Bully Bob]

"Is it possible to just by a new or use factory upper from one of the dealers?"

Yes.., pretty sure Toms has those. You have a '73-'75 box & lower shaft (with ****** attached).

You need the stock upper shaft & the rubber joint. (which may come with that ****** that's on the lower shaft...assuming it clamps on)

What they (WH) is suggesting works as well., but req. a bit of re-engineering.

A "Flaming River" u-joint is used but you'd have to press that ****** off the lower shaft (seems to me, it's clamped on though)., (or cut it as well). Then the u-joint would have to match the splines on the lower shaft., & a smooth end match the cut-off upper shaft.

If lower shaft is cut., then the u-joint needs to have smooth openings on both ends. Smooth ends req. drilling the shaft ends for a "pin" to go thru & lock u-joint in place.

Another option if you have the cash laying around., is the complete set-up, upper & lower shaft assy., already built. The lower shaft telescopes for safety & fitment. Simply slide the upper shaft into column & clamp the lower u-joint to the splined stub-shaft on the box & you're done. (once the bushings, steering wheel, etc. are re-installed)

Toms has these all set up. The other suppliers likely do as well.

You can view this unit on their website.

Hope that's clear as mud.... :wacko: