Pics of my "Dead Horse"

[Jayson5150]

Well, I have some pictures developed and scanned here is the 69 I bought a couple of weeks ago. As you can see in the pics I have my work cut out for me. Since the pics I've only had a couple of hours here and there to work on it. So, the rear and drivers seat are out, dash pad is out, and about 20 shovelfuls of dirt are out. Any suggestions as to where to start would be very helpful. Or let me know if a can of gas and a road flare is the solution ) . It does run and drive but, the column shifter does not work for reverse or first.

 

[STLKIKN]

Jayson,

You need to figure out EXACTLY how you will be using your truck when it is completed.

Make a list of what you want for upgrades.

Make a list of what currently works or doesn't work on the truck.

As you tear the old girl down , bag/ box and tag the parts as they come off. Buy a polaroid or digital camera, take lots of pics of how things are put together BEFORE you take them apart.

Put all the parts you won't be re-installing into a "sale" pile.

Remember, it is always easy to say "oh, I'll fix/replace that later"

BUT when it comes down to it, you really only want to do the work once.

Do it once, do it right, save yourself a lot of future headaches....

 

[CUrt60]

Take your time and do it right, is good advice. I am in the middle of a frame off rebuild on a 72. Decide what you want to do with it before you get started.

 

[Bully Bob]

I respectfully disagree..! :-B

My God...! Did he park under an acid waterfall..!!

I've done 17 of these projects. This may top the ugly-factor of any of mine. (one Land Cruiser was actually worse)(but sold for over 8K)

I see a box of Huggies on the work-bench...so, if you want to keep your wife & kids, I suggest the following;

1) get it to STOP, meaning the brake system is cleaned up & working. (emergency brake included)

2) make it CONTROLABLE, inspect drive shafts (drive-train) & steering connections

3) get it to GO, meaning clean tanks, lines, filters, & good fuel press. Clean ignition with good spark.

4) when running on all 8, scrap the column (unless you have a doner unit) shift & install a Duff or Hurst shifter.

5) put a pillow on the seat springs & take it out to the north 40 ..! Discover what works & what dosen't. Deal with those items...the rest is cosmetic.

You will now have an additional couple hundred in it & have a "feel" for wheather or not you want to continue on.

Might want to consider "Roadstering" it...(rag-top & doors)

I put boneyard Toyota seats in mine...work great..!

Taking the body off may insure a divorce....never saw a reason for that unless building a show truck or mix & matching from several vehicles.

Down the road, when happy with basics, look into P/S

Fun proj. if you keep it in reason.

Bob B)

 

[firelt90bronco]

OH MY GOD! What the **** is that? What would ever posess you to buy that! Well, take it apart and build it up from the ground. Good Luck >-

 

[Broncoholics]

Well, with the dash pad and seats out out I bet it looks better! Its a starting point but if I were you I'd make it a wheeler. Seems like too much work to make cherry. Chop the fenders, get larger tires, add a 3.5" lift, roll cage, sand the body, fix some dents and give it a paint job. You might need to sand bast a bunch of the rust off first. How does the frame look?

 

[dtwood456]

Boy, I don't feel so bad now. I can feel your pain. But is a sweet pain once it is all done. I have to agree with most everyone on this one. I especially agree with bronco **** with his advise. Don't forget to take his advise and take lots and lots of pictures before you take a thing off. I did it (for some reason) and boy am I glad. You would not beleive how many times I have gone back to the pics to figure out something. You will have fun. Look at the rising rust project listed. I started about where you are. Good luck.

David

 

[Jayson5150]

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> This is why I have nicknamed it "dead horse". Believe it or not, the only bad rust I have found is a small (approx. 3" diameter) hole under gas pedal. It does stop. (brakes will be rebuilt/replaced with discs eventually) and it does run strong Mistakenly lit up rear tires in driveway. (fun when sitting on a milk crate) I do understand this wont be a cherry ride by any means, mostly a toy. I dont have the space or cash for a frame off, and any major components wont be removed until a replacement is in hand.

 

[76Explorer]

Hope you have DEEP pockets, because a full restro will be expensive. I have to agree with Bully Bob on the following, because I didn't do a frame off and still spent over 9k and still need to spend about 1k more to be finished. Take lots of pictures, because I regret not doing so. Look at my before and after pics.

1) get it to STOP, meaning the brake system is cleaned up & working. (emergency brake included)

2) make it CONTROLABLE, inspect drive shafts (drive-train) & steering connections

3) get it to GO, meaning clean tanks, lines, filters, & good fuel press. Clean ignition with good spark.

4) when running on all 8, scrap the column (unless you have a doner unit) shift & install a Duff or Hurst shifter.

5) put a pillow on the seat springs & take it out to the north 40 ..! Discover what works & what dosen't. Deal with those items...the rest is cosmetic.

 

[BroncoAddict]

Well first you should start looking around at sus. set ups. Decide what company and which system would fit your needs. Duff has always been great to me. They even have a 5.5" system. I would really look into their 3.5" long travel. Take the doors off. Who needs em in a toy like this. Go pick up some sand paper, bondo, and some flat color of spray paint. Why do a pretty shiney paint job if it's just gonna get scratched and banged up. Find a 6 or 8 point cage get some seats and harnesses. I got some dodge neon seats out of a junk yard, work great for me. If you're doin some hard wheelin you might want to look into a dana 45 to replace your 35. It might take the beatings better than a 35. Slap you some 35inch tires on there and go wheelin. Don't get into real sticky places yet, drive it let stuff break, fix it. I had something happen everytime i went out the first dozen or so times. My gas tank had more rust in it than gas i think so this caused problems, if it's been sittin you might want to check it out. Most of all have fun with it, build it, go beat on it. You get every penny worth out of it when your runnin down the trail and there is no better feeling than running the trails in your bronco, you built! :lol:

 

[Jayson5150]

I think my plan is...(i'll have about a grand to throw at it here in about 3 weeks) get the fuel delivery system cleaned out, get the wiring taken care of...only thing that works is front turn signals, shifter conversion to floor (i know a guy who has a line on a 5 speed for it) tune up the engine & brakes, and I can keep sanding & primering in the meanwhile. It does look better the more I take out of it. still no major rust. the pictures look worse that it really is. It was originally royal maroon, then yellow then blue, now the blue and yellow are flaking off. I plan to lift it probably the 3.5" lift with 35's. How do I tell what differential is on it? I think it's the 9" and the production code resaerch show's 3.50 gears. So much work to be done it's overwhelming to look at the whole picture. Just trying to focus on one thing at a time. Thanks for lookin'

 

[BroncoAddict]

Yep rear diff. is a ford 9". Pretty sure you have a dana 35 up front, it's a 69 right? The only way really to see what your gear ratio is to check it yourself. Take the rear chunk outta the 9". The whole peice will come out in one piece. Count the number of teeth on the ring gear, count the number of teeth on the pinion gear. Ring gear divided by your pinion gear equals your gear ratio. If your gonna go with 35's look into some 4.56 gears for the front&rear. I'm runnin 4.11's with 35's soon to change. If and when you do a gear swap look into some lockers, might as well get it done and done right. When you get out wheelin you'll regret it if you don't lock it up.

 

[76Explorer]

I think my plan is...(i'll have about a grand to throw at it here in about 3 weeks)  get the fuel delivery system cleaned out, get the wiring taken care of...only thing that works is front turn signals, shifter conversion to floor (i know a guy who has a line on a 5 speed for it) tune up the engine & brakes, and I can keep sanding & primering in the meanwhile.  It does look better the more I take out of it. still no major rust.  the pictures look worse that it really is.  It was originally royal maroon, then yellow then blue, now the blue and yellow are flaking off.  I plan to lift it probably the 3.5" lift with 35's.    How do I tell what differential is on it?  I think it's the 9" and the production code resaerch show's 3.50 gears.  So much work to be done it's overwhelming to look at the whole picture.  Just trying to focus on one thing at a time.  Thanks for lookin'

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I had my body guy to bead blast the whole truck down to bare metal, then primer it with epoxy primer(the yellow stuff) before he painted it. I didn't want any rust to come through later, and it won't. But a word of advice, have you primer tinted to match the paint your going to use. I have a couple small chips from rocks, and that yellow primer just shines right through them.