Now it wont start

[wilcom]

replaced the starter solinoid and now the engine wont start. Cant believe I screwed this one up. Pretty easy replaced each wire at a time and now no spark. Checked the ign sw per the manual along with coil. Earlier i replaced the dist with a pertronics electronic and flame thrower II coil. Ran ok but not perfect like it was missing on 1 cylinder so the pertronice guys said to do some tests. But thats not it. It ran at least, now it dosent after I replaced the starter solinoid. Tried putting to old one back on and it dosent work at all.

HELPPPP!

 

[Yardape]

Check your ground. That happened to me too. I ran a ground wire to one of the bolts holding it to the fender and problem solved

 

[Bully Bob]

"---and now the engine wont start---"

Meaning won't crank over....or cranks & won't fire up.?

 

[wilcom]

Check your ground. That happened to me too. I ran a ground wire to one of the bolts holding it to the fender and problem solved

You mean ground one of the bolts mounting the solinoid to the fender to ground??? The two bolts holding it to the fender are ground enough eh?

"---and now the engine wont start---"

Meaning won't crank over....or cranks & won't fire up.?

canks fine but no spark from the coil wire to ground.

 

[Yardape]

So you'd think. But all I did was run a ground wire and it worked, Maybe yours is different, But figured it would be worth a try.

 

[wilcom]

So you'd think. But all I did was run a ground wire and it worked, Maybe yours is different, But figured it would be worth a try.

what the hey.....i will try it. Thanks

 

[Big Country]

sounds like you need to do some trial and error to get this to work. should be simple.

 

[wilcom]

what the hey.....i will try it. Thanks

ran a ground from the block to the solinoid bolt holding it to the fender. Scraped the metal bare on both ends but no luck. Battery is new and all batter cables new. At least it ran before i replaced the solinoid. I cant find a wiring diagram worth reading on any of the Bronco tech webs so I dont know about the wiring and color codes as such. Cant be hard....power, ground, ign, starter. Checked the ign switch and continuity is good per the manual but I order another one and will put it in tomorrow.

Any other ideas???

 

[Yardape]

Try running a power wire from the battery to the positive side of the coil, see if that works for you

Can you take a picture of how you have it wired and post it on here?

Like Big Country stated, You wiil have to do some trial and error here. It could be any small thing that was over looked. Easy fix just frustrating.

 

[STLKIKN]

Sounds to me like you missed re-installing wire # 262 in this diagram....

positive coil power from the solenoid.

Hmmmm, kinda gets lost in the translation from my computer to the thumbnail.

Wire 262 is the second small gauge wire that attaches to the "I" terminal of your starting solenoid.

Should be four wires attached to the solenoid.

12v pos cable from the battery

12v cable to the starter

"S" terminal (blue/red stripe in most cases)

"I" terminal (brown on my truck)

Sounds like a simple problem, good luck.

 

[wilcom]

View attachment 3456Sounds to me like you missed re-installing wire # 262 in this diagram....

positive coil power from the solenoid.

Hmmmm, kinda gets lost in the translation from my computer to the thumbnail.

Wire 262 is the second small gauge wire that attaches to the "I" terminal of your starting solenoid.

Should be four wires attached to the solenoid.

12v pos cable from the battery

12v cable to the starter

"S" terminal (blue/red stripe in most cases)

"I" terminal (brown on my truck)

Sounds like a simple problem, good luck.

Ok, here is a recap of the problem.

Took out the old dist and put in a new pertronics with flamethrower coil. Ran fine for a while (an hour or so) and then started missing like one plug was gone. Tried to turn the veh off and it kept running.

Called pertronics tech and he had me go through a bunch of voltage tests with the coil and dist etc. The last test was to diconnect the stock ign wire to the + side of the coil and run a new wire from batt + direct to the coil bypassing everything. Cranked the engine and no spark at the coil wire when grounded to engine. He said the red module in the distributor was probably bad and to send the dist in and he would replace. Just received it back today overnight air and installed. He also said to bypass the stock ign wire from coil + to the ign switch with 14 ga wire since the stock wire is a resistor wire. This we could tell by disconnecting the stock + wire at the coil and turning the ign on we got 12.4 vdc. When hooked up to the + on the coil it was 4.4 vdc. with the - neg side of coil grounded to batt. So I also bypassed that by running from #16 ( B) (on the attached drawing) to © #016 which is pink and goes into the ign switch. I cut it off about 2 inches back and crimped a 14 ga wire on that goes direct to the + on coil. Checked the voltage with key of and - side of coil gronded and volts were 0...good. Turned the key on and it was 11.4 vdc...good now since it has full volts to coil. Tech said dist needs at least 10.9vdc to run and the old 4.4vdc wasnt good enough.

Now the continuing problem.....still no spark at coil wire.

I also jumpered around the brown wire from #262 on your drawing direct to "I" on solinoid. Still no spark.

To recap: So here is what I ve done so far

Ran 14 ga wire direct from Pink wire on back of ign switch to Coil +. Measured 11.4 vdc with key on and -neg side of coil grounded to neg on batt.

Jumpered around the brown wire #262 direct to "I" on Solinoid.

Replace ign switch just in case it was bad.

Relpalce solinoid just in case it was bad.

Disconnected the coil + from the ign switch and ran a seperate wire from batt + to coil +.

Any suggestions????

 

[Yardape]

Have you tried the stock coil again?

 

[wilcom]

Have you tried the stock coil again?

Nope as the pertronics people tested theirs I sent back and they said it was good. But I am going to test my old one tonight.....will let you know.

 

[wilcom]

Nope as the pertronics people tested theirs I sent back and they said it was good. But I am going to test my old one tonight.....will let you know.

Finally found out whats up. The pertronics techs were heping me figure out what was up and onl of the tests they had me do was to bypass the entire starting system by running a ground from the coil - to the battery ground and pos to batt pos. Aparently this shorted out the red electronic module in the distributor. I sent it back to pertronics and they replace it but didnt tell me if it was good or not. I got it back put it in and it wouldnt start. Tried the same test they gave me before and no go.

Finally i took it over to a mechanic buddy and he found it to be the red moudle in the distributor was shorted out again.

He replaced it and it worked fine. Go figure .....guess the techs at pertronics dont know their own stuff.

Thanks for all the help