No start

[Bernie]

Last week I had an incident with my '74 302 floor shift Bronco where nothing happened when I turned the key to start. After a few attempts it finally started. As a result of that I removed and cleaned the cables to the battery, starter solenoid and starter. I cleaned the connections to the alternator and voltage regulator. Verified with a volt meter that the battery was at 12 volts and with the engine running the volt meter indicated 13+ volts. Everything worked fine for a few days until I let the Bronco set for a couple days and again nothing would happen when I turned the key. The headlights wouldn't come on and everything seems to be dead. I checked the battery with a meter and it indicates 12 volts. As overkill I put a battery charger on for several hours to make sure the battery is fully charged.

I then proceeded to clean the ground cable to the engine block and frame. Still no help. Then I removed the ignition switch and verified that I had power to the battery terminal on the ignition switch (yellow wire). I pulled the ignition switch out and checked it for continuity in all modes (off, access, on, start and proof mode. Everything about the switch checked okay. I put it all back together and still no go and headlights won't come on either.

Any suggestions on what to check or try next?

Thanks for any input,

Bernie

 

[Seabronc]

With a good battery, no lights and starter doesn't turn over, it sounds like a fusable link. Pull on the fusable links to see if one is separated. There should be one or more attached to the battery side of the start solenoid.

Good luck,

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[S_bolt19]

did you replace the solenoid or just clean the connections? If you didn't, then you need to replace that...I keep a spare one on me at all times...I have had a couple of EBs and they had the same problem and my current one does it sometimes too. They seem to blow those cheap solenoids about once a year. Also make sure your battery cables are in good shape cause that will cause those solenoids to blow regularly too.

 

[Justbust1n]

Last week I had an incident with my '74 302 floor shift Bronco where nothing happened when I turned the key to start. After a few attempts it finally started. As a result of that I removed and cleaned the cables to the battery, starter solenoid and starter. I cleaned the connections to the alternator and voltage regulator. Verified with a volt meter that the battery was at 12 volts and with the engine running the volt meter indicated 13+ volts. Everything worked fine for a few days until I let the Bronco set for a couple days and again nothing would happen when I turned the key. The headlights wouldn't come on and everything seems to be dead. I checked the battery with a meter and it indicates 12 volts. As overkill I put a battery charger on for several hours to make sure the battery is fully charged.
I then proceeded to clean the ground cable to the engine block and frame. Still no help. Then I removed the ignition switch and verified that I had power to the battery terminal on the ignition switch (yellow wire). I pulled the ignition switch out and checked it for continuity in all modes (off, access, on, start and proof mode. Everything about the switch checked okay. I put it all back together and still no go and headlights won't come on either.

Any suggestions on what to check or try next?

Thanks for any input,

Bernie

sounds like it might be a silenoid , you usually can check by turning the ignition to the on postion then takin a metal plistic handel make sure palstic screwdrive ( pretty good size) cause youll get shocked !! and bump the two outside connections if the silenoid if it turns over and cranks after failed attemps at trying in from the ignition itself its probably the siliniod but if not pull the mian power fuse

goodluck

 

[Bernie]

did you replace the solenoid or just clean the connections? If you didn't, then you need to replace that...I keep a spare one on me at all times...I have had a couple of EBs and they had the same problem and my current one does it sometimes too. They seem to blow those cheap solenoids about once a year. Also make sure your battery cables are in good shape cause that will cause those solenoids to blow regularly too.

I check for a blown fuse link and also will get another starter solonoid. All of the cables are like new and in good shape. Does anybody know if there is a main ground cable to the body besides the one that goes to the engine and frame? What puzzles me is that the headlight circuit is dead also. I need to trace that feed also.

Bernie

 

[Yardape]

Run another ground to the top of the rad support, see if that helps any. Also I agree about checking the fuseable links.

 

[Bernie]

Run another ground to the top of the rad support, see if that helps any. Also I agree about checking the fuseable links.

Here's what I tried today. I couldn't find any obvious damage to the fuse links on the alternator harness or the harness that has a fuse link that feeds from the hot side of the starter solenoid back to the connectors at the voltage regulator and the big connector that plugs into the main harness that is routed through the right hand side of the dash panel/cowl top. I did a simple continuity test light of those circuits and didn't see any problem. I'm not sure if a fuse link failure would totally wipe out the continuity test light check or if it is possible to have the harness compromised yet still pass a continuity test?

Additionally, I pulled the alternator off and took it to an Advance Auto Parts store and had it checked out. It checked okay. I purchased and installed a new voltage regulator and a new starter solenoid. Hooked everything back up and still no luck. I have nothing happening when I turn the key through all modes and also no lights when I try to turn them on. I think I need to do some diagnostic work under the instrument panel and figure out why the head light circuit isn't engernized.

Any other suggestions?

Bernie

 

[S_bolt19]

real quick, can you hotwire it from the ignition switch? If it fires and runs when you hotwire it then you might have a bad ignition. Everything runs through that switch and if its bad, then nothin runs.

 

[Seabronc]

Yes it is possible for a bad fuse link to pass a continuity test. the reason being is that it may still have a strand touching to pass the test but when you draw power that strand separates. I'm including a diagram of a typical fuse link arrangement. However, keep in mind this is from an 83 EVTM. Your truck arrangement is probably different, at least from the standpoint of what fuse link feeds what. Get a Chiltons or Haynes for your truck, I think Meisk5 has some diagrams for the older trucks in his links unfortunately I don't know which link it is or I'd include it here.

As far as checking fuse links, you need to grab hold of it on both ends and pull to see if it comes apart. This will get you into the AutoZone system and may provide a diagram. To get information, it looks like you have to register your truck.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Bernie]

real quick, can you hotwire it from the ignition switch? If it fires and runs when you hotwire it then you might have a bad ignition. Everything runs through that switch and if its bad, then nothin runs.

Well guys, I finally got the horse running. I did a voltage check from the starter solenoid back to the big connector at the right hand dash/cowl top connector and found that I had 12 volts to the male side of the connector. My connector had a crack in it and had some minor corrosion on the terminals. I cleaned the terminals and coated the terminals (male side and the mating female side with a di-electric grease ). I put the connector together and found that I had 12 volts on the female side of the connector when I pierce the wire with a probe. I then jumped inside the Bronco and believe it or not the lights worked when I pulled the switch so I immediately fired the engine up successfully.

As a result of finding out that the real problem here was the big three way connector at the after mentioned location. I wrapped the connector with a tie-strap and then covered it with electrical tape.

I want to thank all of you guys for your suggestions in helping me trouble shoot this problem and resolve it. Needless to say we took the EB out to the local Tiki-Bar tonight and celebrated our good fortune!!

Beach Bronco Bernie

 

[Seabronc]

Glad you found it and thanks for reporting back about the solution.

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