I know this has probly been asked before, but I couldn't find any info so far. I have a 1971 Bronco with manual steering and I have everything to convert it off of a 1974 Bronco. when I got the parts, the person I got it from said I would have to do something to the lower steering shaft for it to fit. Anyone know what I would need to do? I'd like to get it installed but not sure what else I need to do the swap. Any help would be great! Thanks
manual to power steering swap
- Thread starter smurfette
- Start date
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Hi Ms. Smurf..,
It's pretty straight forward..., however. you will need the lower & upper shaft.
You can make your own & it works.., but, (not sure if JBG has the two {they should} there on the right coast)., I know Toms Br. parts & WH on the left coast does.
Point being their set-ups won't fail you..ever. [-(
It will incl. a U-joint on the str. box., possibly a slip-joint on the lower shaft., & the matching upper shaft. The upper shaft will mate right up with your steer. wheel.
Getting the one piece "long" shaft (man. str.) out is tricky if you have a hardtop.
There's a couple piece-parts on the lower part of the column that will come out....they can be cleaned/lubed & re-used.
The box is a direct bolt-on. Hopefully the pump brackets are there. You will need a two sheave pully at least on the crank. Doesn't hurt to have one on the waterpump as well.
"2 banana job"....
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> you can do it..!!! >< <'>
It's pretty straight forward..., however. you will need the lower & upper shaft.
You can make your own & it works.., but, (not sure if JBG has the two {they should} there on the right coast)., I know Toms Br. parts & WH on the left coast does.
Point being their set-ups won't fail you..ever. [-(
It will incl. a U-joint on the str. box., possibly a slip-joint on the lower shaft., & the matching upper shaft. The upper shaft will mate right up with your steer. wheel.
Getting the one piece "long" shaft (man. str.) out is tricky if you have a hardtop.
There's a couple piece-parts on the lower part of the column that will come out....they can be cleaned/lubed & re-used.
The box is a direct bolt-on. Hopefully the pump brackets are there. You will need a two sheave pully at least on the crank. Doesn't hurt to have one on the waterpump as well.
"2 banana job"....
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> you can do it..!!! >< <'>Thanks for the info. I was wondering if there was a stock ford column that I could use, maybe from an F150 (70's vintage)? The only reason is I'd like to keep it all Ford if possible and I know of a donor vehicle I could get the column from if it would work.
"I was wondering if there was a stock ford column that I could use, maybe from an F150 (70's vintage)?"
That might be a bit more involved.....
You didn't say there was a prob. with the column.??
The new (used) upper shaft goes up the center of your existing column.
Yours is stick-shift/manual column. It's an easy swap if your column is good.
If you got a column., you would need it's shafts, & the "lower" shaft joint would have to fit your P/S box splines.
(Just the 2 shafts, I assume, would be cheaper)
"The power steering parts are actually from a 1976 Bronco. Does this make it a more difficult swap?"
No.... however the box-input shaft & splines may be a dif./larger size.
'76-'77 have a 4:1 ratio...the older ones are 6:1
This just means ya get full stroke turn with less turns with 4:1
At the end of the day., one doesn't know what he/she has 'til things are examined & measured...good to know B/4 buying any more parts.
We only have his word.....
That might be a bit more involved.....
You didn't say there was a prob. with the column.??
The new (used) upper shaft goes up the center of your existing column.
Yours is stick-shift/manual column. It's an easy swap if your column is good.
If you got a column., you would need it's shafts, & the "lower" shaft joint would have to fit your P/S box splines.
(Just the 2 shafts, I assume, would be cheaper)
"The power steering parts are actually from a 1976 Bronco. Does this make it a more difficult swap?"
No.... however the box-input shaft & splines may be a dif./larger size.
'76-'77 have a 4:1 ratio...the older ones are 6:1
This just means ya get full stroke turn with less turns with 4:1
At the end of the day., one doesn't know what he/she has 'til things are examined & measured...good to know B/4 buying any more parts.
We only have his word.....
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I don't think there is a problem with my steering column, think most of the problem lies in the bell joint and the manual box. There is ALOT of play in the wheel, it wanders alot so I have to keep correcting it. I traded the power steering parts for a hard top I was getting rid of so it didn't cost my anything for those. So I guess now I just need to get the shafts for it then. I was hoping to find Ford ones, but haven't been able to find them yet. Thank you soo much for all your help, I know anytime I have questions you always seem to have the answers for me! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />"I was hoping to find Ford ones, but haven't been able to find them yet."
They ARE Ford parts, be them "used" which many EB stores have., or "new" made to spec. with modern U-joints. The up-dated "telescoping" lower shaft is a really GOOD thing (for safety)...a bit more $$
Stock design works perfect as well.
(don't forget., as Seabronc posted., JBG gives you a discount if you mention Br.Zone)
"..think most of the problem lies in the bell joint and the manual box. There is ALOT of play in the wheel,"
Yep.., the box gets worn, as well as the "bell". Your shaft is one-long-piece., it can't cause play. The orig. columns are pretty bullet-proof., & easy to refurbish.
Feel good 'bout gett'n that orig./stock box.... they're gett'n harder to find./
They ARE Ford parts, be them "used" which many EB stores have., or "new" made to spec. with modern U-joints. The up-dated "telescoping" lower shaft is a really GOOD thing (for safety)...a bit more $$
Stock design works perfect as well.
(don't forget., as Seabronc posted., JBG gives you a discount if you mention Br.Zone)
"..think most of the problem lies in the bell joint and the manual box. There is ALOT of play in the wheel,"
Yep.., the box gets worn, as well as the "bell". Your shaft is one-long-piece., it can't cause play. The orig. columns are pretty bullet-proof., & easy to refurbish.
Feel good 'bout gett'n that orig./stock box.... they're gett'n harder to find.
/
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I think maybe the telescoping lower shaft is the best way to go, just for the extra safety. I'll be calling tomorrow to see if I can get everything ordered. I'd like to try to have everything I need before we start the swap even though it never works that way! I'm sure I'll run into something else I need to finish it up.... As for the p/s box and pump, I thought I got a pretty good deal on it all..he even included the power brake booster for me too! Worked out well, we both got what we wanted & thats all that matters! Now its just finding the time to get it all done
KEWL..,
"..telescoping lower shaft.."
These came to be to prevent the shaft fr. becoming a speer to the chest heaven forbid a head-on crash. (& eliminates the rag-joint for frame flex)
You may need to rent a pitman arm puller & may need a pickle fork for the tie-rod end.
May need to drop the column loose fr. the bottom of the dash..so as to pull (aft. knocking the pin off the bottom) the orig. shaft out the top. (It will likely hit the roof)
Apparently., all the EB P/S boxes have a 13/16"--36 spline in-put shaft.
It's best to "prime" the pump, by hand, a bit prior to start-up.
I't a 1/2 to one day job., especially with two folks on it.
There's two size pitman arms as well., measure in case you need a diff. one. (check hole size on box output shaft & tie-rod taper hole.)
The booster is for another day....may want to do a leak-down test one day.
60+ folks are watching your post...sooo, if time permits., post results & maybe some pics...?
Enjoy., you'll like the new set-up.
P.S. I forgot., for those happy with man. steering..., the box can be rebuilt & the "bell" is avail. new or in kit form. Then steering will be solid & tight..!!
"..telescoping lower shaft.."
These came to be to prevent the shaft fr. becoming a speer to the chest heaven forbid a head-on crash. (& eliminates the rag-joint for frame flex)
You may need to rent a pitman arm puller & may need a pickle fork for the tie-rod end.
May need to drop the column loose fr. the bottom of the dash..so as to pull (aft. knocking the pin off the bottom) the orig. shaft out the top. (It will likely hit the roof)
Apparently., all the EB P/S boxes have a 13/16"--36 spline in-put shaft.
It's best to "prime" the pump, by hand, a bit prior to start-up.
I't a 1/2 to one day job., especially with two folks on it.
There's two size pitman arms as well., measure in case you need a diff. one. (check hole size on box output shaft & tie-rod taper hole.)
The booster is for another day....may want to do a leak-down test one day.
60+ folks are watching your post...sooo, if time permits., post results & maybe some pics...?
Enjoy., you'll like the new set-up.
P.S. I forgot., for those happy with man. steering..., the box can be rebuilt & the "bell" is avail. new or in kit form. Then steering will be solid & tight..!!
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Thanks so much for all your help! I know its not very enjoyable to driveright now so anything will be an improvement..timeframe isn't too bad, I kinda thought it'd be a weekend job anyway. Luckily, I don't have a hardtop on mine, so thats one less obstacle to deal with. I should be getting to the swap in the next couple weeks and I'll get some pics of the process and post as soon as its done. Thanks again! >-
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