Hood Scoops, which one??

[wilcom]

I am looking for any information on which hood scoop to put on my 70 Bronco. I want a functional type and probably with rear facing vents to make the flow better. I want to get as much air flow through the engine compartment to cool the engine.

I put in a new aluminum radiator and headers on my stock 302 and the running temp went from 195 to 210. I have the flex fan, fan shroud etc and it always ran cool until now. I think the headers put quite a bit of heat in there.

Anyone have ideas???

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi wil..,

This always makes me wonder.... :huh:

I see you got the shroud back in.., that's a good thing but other questions come to mind.

Did you chem. & flow flush the whole sys. pryor to new radiator..?

What rated thermostat did you use., & is it (good brand) new., or tested...?

What are you guaging temp by....stock dash ga. or after market.?

------in other words ..is this an acurate reading..?

Is there any action going on fr. rad. to overflow bottle..?

"...and it always ran cool until now."

Cool, I would think would be @ 180

Hood venting may help....wrapping the headers may help....but I would want to be sure I'm starting with an accurate temp. reading.

Is everything tuned correctly.?

Not a big fan of cutt'n holes in the hood......but most EB houses have hood scoops/vents. ( www.ramairhood.com )

Up dating your sig. page would help....

HTH

B

 

[wilcom]

Hi wil..,This always makes me wonder.... :huh:

I see you got the shroud back in.., that's a good thing but other questions come to mind.

Did you chem. & flow flush the whole sys. pryor to new radiator..?

YES, NICE AND CLEAR USED 90 ANTIFREEZE.

What rated thermostat did you use., & is it (good brand) new., or tested...?

DONT USE A THERMOSTAT HERE IN CALIF.

What are you guaging temp by....stock dash ga. or after market.?

USING AUTO METER GAUGE. SINCE I PUT IT IN YEARS AGO (AND BEFORE HEADERS AND NEW RAD) IT ALWAYS RAN A MAX OF 190 DEG

------in other words ..is this an acurate reading..?

Is there any action going on fr. rad. to overflow bottle..?

FUNNY YOU SOULD MENTION THAT. IT NEVER DID IT BEFORE BUT SINCE I PUT THE NEW RADIATOR IN. ONCE IT GETS UP TO TEMP IT BUBBLES INTO THE OVERFLOW TANK A LITTLE SO I THOUGHT I HAD TO LOW OF A PRESSURE CAP...13LB. I TOOK IT OUT FOR A LONG DRIVE AND WHEN I CAME BACK THE OVERFLOW TANK WAS UP TO THE TOP.

"...and it always ran cool until now." YES

Cool, I would think would be @ 180

YES, BETWEEN 180 AND 190 DEG

I PUT PUT A NEW CARB ON IT AND TOOK THE MANIFOLD OFF AND CLEANED IT UP AND PUT ON NEW GASKETS. TORQ TO SPECS. NO WATER IN OIL OR EXHAUST BUT I THOUGHT THERE WAS IN THE EXHAUST. WHEN I FIRST START IT UP LIKE THE NEXT DAY I SEE SMOKE/VAPOR COMING OUT OF ONE SIDE EXHAUST FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES BUT I SMELLED AND TASTED THE EXHAUST AND IT DIDT SEEM LIKE ANTIFREEZ. I PUT A PRESSURE TESTER ON THE RADIATOR AND TOOK IT TO 15 LBS AND NOTHING.....STAYED ROCK SOLID.

Hood venting may help....wrapping the headers may help....but I would want to be sure I'm starting with an accurate temp. reading.

Is everything tuned correctly.?

I HAVE ALWAY WANTED TO VENT THE HOOD SINCE I GET TONS OF HEAT IN THE CAB DURING LONG TRIPS...EVEN BEFORE ANY HEADERS ETC.....BEEN THAT WAY FOR OVER 15 YRS.

Not a big fan of cutt'n holes in the hood......but most EB houses have hood scoops/vents. ( www.ramairhood.com )

Up dating your sig. page would help....

HTH

B

 

[Bully Bob]

"DONT USE A THERMOSTAT HERE IN CALIF."

This is rarely a good thing (even in cooler locations)....the 'stat slows things a bit at times to get better cooling.

(I lived in Calif as well)

My Br. rarely gets up to normal.......a while back, it ('stat) stuck open & the eng. temp climbed to approx. 195..!

Upon removing..., I couldn't budge the trap door even w/a screwdriver.

Replaced it.., & back to "cool" again.

You should have a 180deg. in there.

"USED 90 ANTIFREEZE"

What does this mean....?

 

[wilcom]

"DONT USE A THERMOSTAT HERE IN CALIF."This is rarely a good thing (even in cooler locations)....the 'stat slows things a bit at times to get better cooling.

(I lived in Calif as well)

My Br. rarely gets up to normal.......a while back, it ('stat) stuck open & the eng. temp climbed to approx. 195..!

Upon removing..., I couldn't budge the trap door even w/a screwdriver.

Replaced it.., & back to "cool" again.

You should have a 180deg. in there.

"USED 90 ANTIFREEZE"

What does this mean....?

Yes, I guess you are right....I will put a 180 in there this weekend. I went out again yesterday and let her heat up at idle for about 20 minutes and the temp went to 210 again. I put the digital thermostat in and it read 146. I have tried an after market sensor and the stock one and the stock one is about 10 deg less on the reading but still not accurate. I went and got myself some resistors at radio shack and will try and fingue out which Ohm value brings it down to the temp on the digital thermometer.

I went out tonight and put the vaccume pressure tester on her and brought it up to 15lb.....let it set for 5 minutes and it didnt move a bit so there is not leak. I have a 13 lb cap on it which I belive is stock so why do you suppose the overflow tank bubbles a bit...kind of like a small rolling boil but not much. With the radiator topped off and it run up to temp by driving it for abuot 30 minutes the overflow tank goes from the cold level to a bit above "full hot". Then when it cools off it sucks it back in and it goes back to the cold level in the tank. I never saw thins before (or maybe noticed it), is this normal???? With the old radiator (stock) I would fill it and it would stay full and never fill over to the holding tank. Maybe the new 3 core radiator is doing it and it is normal.

Your thoughts?????

 

[Bully Bob]

"....Then when it cools off it sucks it back in and it goes back to the cold level in the tank."

To my knowledge.., this is exactly what it's supposed to do.

I would think the 13 lb. press. cap is correct.

BTW.., if your heater valve isn't working., the heater never shuts off. That would heat the cab.

 

[wilcom]

"....Then when it cools off it sucks it back in and it goes back to the cold level in the tank."To my knowledge.., this is exactly what it's supposed to do.

I would think the 13 lb. press. cap is correct.

BTW.., if your heater valve isn't working., the heater never shuts off. That would heat the cab.

Heater core and controls are new. I just bought a 180 deg thermostat at Pep boys and tested it with my thermometer in boiling water....it did not open until almost 190 so I am going back to get a 170 and test it. It will probably open at 180. Any way I wlll put one in and see what is up.

 

[wilcom]

Over the weekend I after running the Bronco on a hour trip I found that when I looked into the overflow tank I could smell and exhaust type smell and could see a black skin floating on the top. After cooling and opening the radiator I could see the same in the top of the radiation tank. Tasted and smelled like exhaust smells. Dang!!

Figured I should start over again and remove the intake manifold and put new gaskets on AGAIN!....maybe I didn't do it right. As you know trying to drop a 30 lb manifold down on without messing up the placement of the gaskets is pretty tough especially when you are bending over the front of the vehicle. I removed and cleaned all surfaces prepped the gasket on the heads with sealant and got the manifold ready to drop on. I got 6 of the 5/16 carriage bolts from the hardware store and cut the heads off and used them as rail guides when lowering the manifold down. Worked perfectly, she sat down right on the mark!

Per the directions i let it set up for 1 hours after putting the manifold down and pushing out the gasket material a little bit. then torqued it down in 3 steps. 15 lb, 20 lb and 25 lb. let dry for 24 hours and started this morning. Runs great and water flow and cooling is great. Now I have to get a temp sending unit that is true to the temperature. My digital thermometer which i calibrated to a analog temp gauge to verify said the water temp was 154.7 after idling for 20 minutes. The Auto Meter gauge said 220. I need to see if i can get a sending unit made for auto meter that works right. The one I am using is new and not the stock one that is mounted on one of the runners for water on the manifold but one that is mounted on the thermostat inlet.....supposed to be for Auto Meter. The stock one is still there and when I use it, it is 20 deg below the new one. If I cant find one I will try and get a couple of standard resistors to see which one will bring it down 60 deg or to normal. I figure about 5 ohms or so but will let you know.

Do you have any solution for the temp gauge issue??? The gauge is about 10 years old but I only drive the Bronco hunting and funning around....maybe about 1,200 miles a year so I don't think its bad.

 

[Bully Bob]

Good job..!

Exh. leaking into the water jackets is not a good thing...good you found that.

I've done most all I can for you...all I can add at this point is .., if it were me, I would contact Auto Meter to be sure sender & guage match. They may even suggest using the orig. sender.., but a new one.

They may even have a test for you to do on the guage..., or even send it in. Sometimes they don't even charge for that.

Are you using one of those hand-held lazer-beam gauges..?

I would still use a good qual. 180 deg. 'stat.

Not sure what 90 antifreeze is..?

-----OR-----

With respect to your electronics...you should start a new post & include seabronc's handle in the question...I believe it's he that's up on what your doing.