Headlights or dash lights

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Burns

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Wheeling the other day(week) my headlights and dash lights went out. Figured it was a fuse. No dice. Ordered a new switch assembly from JBG and put it in. Now I have either dash lights OR headlights, and if I meddle with it for a little, I can get both. But a semi-hard bump will knock one or ther other off, and I out of habit sometimes just OCD pull the **** out to make sure the lights are on, both resulting in no headlights. The new switch results in the same thing, so it's got to be wiring, right? Any tips?

 

Broncobill78

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Wheeling the other day(week) my headlights and dash lights went out. Figured it was a fuse. No dice. Ordered a new switch assembly from JBG and put it in. Now I have either dash lights OR headlights, and if I meddle with it for a little, I can get both. But a semi-hard bump will knock one or ther other off, and I out of habit sometimes just OCD pull the **** out to make sure the lights are on, both resulting in no headlights. The new switch results in the same thing, so it's got to be wiring, right? Any tips?

Sounds like a bad ground to me.

 

Seabronc

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The common thing between them is the power. Both functions come from the black with orange stripe wire connected by a fuse link to your start relay, (battery side). The difference is that at a splice near the left hand courtesy light, one leg goes directly to the connector contact which powers the head lights, the other leg goes to fuse 4 and then to the contact that powers the dash lights and the exterior lamps. Being flaky like you mention may be the connector that the switch is plugged into.

Here are some diagrams from an 83 EVTM but the circuits are the same for your truck.

Good luck,

:)>-

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