Drive Train

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Big Burtha

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Ok....I need some serious help. I've got a 79 bronco on 44's, and having the biggest truck in the county is no fun when every time you lock it in you snap all the bolts holding the centering yoke to the transfer case, or just busting an uncountable number or u-joints. I've got the front clip off of it and it doesnt look like it'll be that hard to cut the crosmembers and fab-up some new ones and lower everything. the exhaust manifold on the passenger side looks like it will bairly fit between the fraimrails( wil require a litlle grinding) but othere than that i'll be running an electric fan. Thats what i've seen so far

Like I said, its no fun to watch everyone else play in the mud when i'm sitting in the ole fat girl with an empty wallet....anyone got any idea's?

 
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davids78bronco

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You're still using your stock axles? Or no? If you are, that's your problem, not the truck height. If you aren't, and have larger axles for those massive tires, then I gather you want to keep the same tires, just lower the truck? Still hard to know what you want... If I were in your shoes - truck keeps breaking parts, broke, and frustrated about it all, I'd sell the tires and wheels, and get a smaller set (38s are a good all around size)

Plan it out, before you start cutting things up. Another question - how's your drivleine angle, compared to your Tcase outputs and axle pinions?

 
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Txquadhunter

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like david stated. if it's your shafts causing the problem It's time to give high angle driveline a call. they'll set ya up with the right shafts. plus cheap U-joints won't cut it with smaller offroad toys let alone one towering on 44's.

 
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Big Burtha

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the angle seems to be the whole problem, its the biggest bind I've ever seen. Even with the constant velocity's the joints in them are really close to smacking ears. The rearend is a 9inch with 31 splines. Never had any trouble since replacing them when i got the thing, the prev owner didnt shim it and it really howled and had some slop. Changing that helped alot. I've always ran spicer joints, so if there is a little better let me know. I thought about changing the front springs to lower it, cause I have a set of 40 groundhawgs, which are the same height as my brothers 38 tsl's.

With that said, I'm trying to keep the height. I know its an uphill battle, that short of a wheelbase and that much suspension lift....not a good start. But, why not see what I can do. I know even with all the drivetrain lowered and the 4:56's that I'll still break, Im just hoping that it wont be so much. I'm not a throttlehead so if its fairly solid i'm hopin Ill be ok.

If anyones interested let me know and i'll update as i make progress.

 

davids78bronco

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As hard as it may seem, it's not impossible. With your having double carden joints - either at one end, or both - your axle pinion needs to be inline with the driveline. However, too much angle, and oiling becomes a problem. I'm actually amazed that you're only having driveline problems, with those tires, on the tiny 1/2ton axles. if I were you, I'd give serious consideration to upgrading to 1ton axles. The 3/4ton axles (d60 rear, d44hd front) won't cut it either, unless that 3/4ton truck has the "snow plow" package, in which case, it'll have a D60 front axle

Honestly, do yourself a favor, and spend a little now, or keep spending alot later.

 

Peck

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Assuming you have used a quality lift. Do you have the proper c-bushings and radius arm drop brackets if not I would address those issues first.Once you have the front pinion angle correct , then I would figure out how many degrees of angle you need in the rear and order a set of steel shims from JEGS or Summit. As far as a better u-joint, I have had the best luck from OEM nongreasable.

 

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