drive and die

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elnuts 77

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Anyone have a clue why I can start right up, got to store or drive for about 5 minutes, cut it off, and not be able to start again unless it cools off for about 1hour? Also, the fuel sending unit has two little plug ******* on it. What wire goes to what plug?(Recently bought it with poorly done new wiring harness installed)

 

Seabronc

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What ignition system do you have on it? If it is a Duraspark, the most likely suspect is the pickup coil in the distributor. Not sure of the sender direction, I may have a connector in the garage to look at, if you haven't already figured it out yet I will try to take a look for it tonight.

Good luck,

:)>-

 
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elnuts 77

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Anyone have a clue why I can start right up, got to store or drive for about 5 minutes, cut it off, and not be able to start again unless it cools off for about 1hour? Also, the fuel sending unit has two little plug ******* on it. What wire goes to what plug?(Recently bought it with poorly done new wiring harness installed)
Sorry- I have a MSD ignition. It doesn't seem to be the problem though. When I get back in the truck, turn the key, everything turns. It just seems like it is starved for fuel. Could the wiring issue on the sending unit be suspect or is that just for the gauge panel? The engine also seems to get really hot really fast. I can drive around the neighborhood, and it will be hot. Could this have anything to do with it not wanting to start again? If the engine is cool (sit for an hour or so) it starts up in just a few seconds. I am just confused if the wiring on sending unit, and or if the heat could be related to not starting.

 

Bully Bob

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"....I am just confused if the wiring on sending unit, and or if the heat could be related to not starting."

It's not the send. unit wire....

Heat could be the culprit....bad radiator/circulation ...causing vapor-lock. Your veh. should warm at a normal rate & hold approx 180 deg. (where do you live..?)

AND/OR your power valve could be leaking as well.

Timing creates heat issues as well. (need as much info. on your rig as poss. for proper help)

 

oleguy74

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the plug on fuel sender is keyed.will only go on one way.disc plug or wires at sender.put ohm meter across terminals on sender, about 70 ohms empty,10 ohms full.next put one lead to metal piece on sender,put other lead to one terminal,if it reads 10 ohms or more that goes to gauge.other term should read 0 OHMS .THAT IS GROUND. IF POWER VALVE LEAKS WILL RUN RICH ALL THE TIME.

 
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TX '73

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Sorry- I have a MSD ignition. It doesn't seem to be the problem though. When I get back in the truck, turn the key, everything turns. It just seems like it is starved for fuel. Could the wiring issue on the sending unit be suspect or is that just for the gauge panel? The engine also seems to get really hot really fast. I can drive around the neighborhood, and it will be hot. Could this have anything to do with it not wanting to start again? If the engine is cool (sit for an hour or so) it starts up in just a few seconds. I am just confused if the wiring on sending unit, and or if the heat could be related to not starting.
In addition to a possible bad radiator, the thermostat could be bad or getting stuck, this can cause you to run hot but I don't know about it locking you out when you go to start.

 
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elnuts 77

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Thanx, I felt the radiator might be a culpret. It appears old and in the way. I did fill er up with radiator fluid when I first got it a month ago to the max fill line on reserve tank. I really havent been anywhere and the level is already to min. level. There was a leak around the hose connecting to radiator, so I tightened it. I still feel that something is wrong here though. Is there a "check" for radiator flow and efficentcy? I can flush and fill, but if there is a problem with the unit, this would be just a waste of time.

 

Bully Bob

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"....Is there a "check" for radiator flow and efficentcy?"

Like Tx'73 said you need to know if thermostat is functioning correctly.

One test....remove rad. cap.., then warm eng. until the fluid is warm/hot to the touch. Check to see if the fluid is moving (circulating) past the cap hole. If so that's good.

Raise RPM...if water gushes out...there's prob. a circ. problem.

If there's bubbles in the fluid....there could be a head gasket issue.

Does water drip fr. exhaust pipe even after eng. is completely warmed up..?

BTW.., did the res. fill back up when eng. got hot...?

Seabronc said; the MSD box with stock dizzy....the PU coil in the dizzy is a weak point.

 

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