Downshifting problem

[Wild King]

72 with 302, 3 speed on the floor. having problems with downshifting into 1st while bronco is moving. have to come to a complete stop before putting it into 1st. this only happens in 2 high not 4 high or 4 low. whats up.

 

[Bully Bob]

What does it do...?? Did this just start..?

Is it grinding..., or does it just refuse to move (the floor shifter)..?

 

[Wild King]

What does it do...?? Did this just start..?Is it grinding..., or does it just refuse to move (the floor shifter)..?

When slowing down, say at a stop light, I try to put it in 1st, There is no grinding it just won't engage into 1st unless I'm at a complete stop. When I stop I can put it into 1st with no problem. It does pop out of 1st occasionally for no reason. Oh ya, this did just start happening. Someone was saying that maybe the diff. is not synchronized???

 

[Bully Bob]

How 'bout the other forward gears..., while rolling, can you change back & forth to 2nd. & 3rd..?

Does it shift easily into reverse..?

"....It does pop out of 1st occasionally for no reason."

Actually.., there is a reason..,

1) Did you pull the cover & check to see if the shifter is out of adjustment..?

2) There are "synchros" in the trans.., not the diff. There is usually grinding when "synchros" go out.

3) 1st/reverse shift fork could be worn...

Hopefully it's just a shifter adjustment.

HTH

B

 

[Wild King]

How 'bout the other forward gears..., while rolling, can you change back & forth to 2nd. & 3rd..?Does it shift easily into reverse..?

"....It does pop out of 1st occasionally for no reason."

Actually.., there is a reason..,

1) Did you pull the cover & check to see if the shifter is out of adjustment..?

2) There are "synchros" in the trans.., not the diff. There is usually grinding when "synchros" go out.

3) 1st/reverse shift fork could be worn...

Hopefully it's just a shifter adjustment.

HTH

B

The other forward gears you can change back & forth to 2nd & 3rd with no problem

and it shifts easily into reverse.

1) Did you pull the cover & check to see if the shifter is out of adjustment..? *****(YES)*****

2) There are "synchros" in the trans.., not the diff. There is usually grinding when "synchros" go out. ***(NO, There is no grinding in the Trans.)****

3) 1st/reverse shift fork could be worn...****(What is this??? and how do I check this???)

Thanks for all the help, Gary

 

[Bully Bob]

".....& check to see if the shifter is out of adjustment..? *****(YES)*****"

---So it's safe assume everything is set per install instructions...?

Sometimes the shift rods can bind or jam into the floor stiffeners.... or they can be worn/sloppy, etc.

A bad/broken motor mount can come into play.

"1st/reverse shift fork could be worn...****(What is this??? and how do I check this???)"

This is internal...there are some "indent" balls & springs that come into play as well.

If the prob. is internal...(let's hope not) then it's time to hit the books....or the trannie shop.

 

[Wild King]

".....& check to see if the shifter is out of adjustment..? *****(YES)*****"---So it's safe assume everything is set per install instructions...?

Sometimes the shift rods can bind or jam into the floor stiffeners.... or they can be worn/sloppy, etc.

A bad/broken motor mount can come into play.

"1st/reverse shift fork could be worn...****(What is this??? and how do I check this???)"

This is internal...there are some "indent" balls & springs that come into play as well.

If the prob. is internal...(let's hope not) then it's time to hit the books....or the trannie shop.

Ya, lets hope not... i guess you have answered this but why do you think the downshifting into 1st while moving works in 2-low and 4-low, but not in 2-high???

you said shift rods can bind or jam into the floor stiffeners.... or they can be worn/sloppy, etc. I will double check this tonight.

 

[STLKIKN]

Another possibility not mentioned, the floor shifter... there are two sets of shifterr rods that come with the Hurst kit.

One is for the J handle shifter (post 72) the other set is for the t handle shifter (72 and older)

If the wrong rods were installed, or they are not adjusted properly, they can rub on the t case shifter causing engagement problems only in certain t case positions.

 

[Wild King]

Another possibility not mentioned, the floor shifter... there are two sets of shifterr rods that come with the Hurst kit.One is for the J handle shifter (post 72) the other set is for the t handle shifter (72 and older)

If the wrong rods were installed, or they are not adjusted properly, they can rub on the t case shifter causing engagement problems only in certain t case positions.

I forgot to mention that I have running with 3 on the floor for 2 years now. This problem started only a few weekes after moving up from 33" to 38". I will check to see if the sifter rods have come out of adjustment or something is rubbing. If not I guess it would be a great time to look into a 5 speed. What do ya'll thing about the NV3550. Thanks for all the help. B)

Thanks, Gary

 

[Bully Bob]

"......but why do you think the downshifting into 1st while moving works in 2-low and 4-low, but not in 2-high???"

Ha..! On this...I haven't a clue....?

This one belongs to the "shifter gods"........

Can you take off in 1st.., go to neutral.., than back into 1st..?

 

[Wild King]

"......but why do you think the downshifting into 1st while moving works in 2-low and 4-low, but not in 2-high???"
Ha..! On this...I haven't a clue....?

This one belongs to the "shifter gods"........

Can you take off in 1st.., go to neutral.., than back into 1st..?

I just tried that for you and no luck there either. Where are the shifter Gods when one needs them.... :blink:

 

[Bully Bob]

GEESE...!

The only thing I can see, at this point, is;

If the 2nd/3rd shift shaft isn't in neutral (sitting in the "indent") ....the 1st/reverse shaft won't want to move.

You could try pulling the cotter keys (trannie in neutral) that are holding the 2 shift rods in place.....then shift the two bellcranks (one at a time) & see if they stop in the 3 indents... forward, back.., & back to neutral.

And they should be in that neutral position when the rods are re-inserted..& the rods should be somewhat relaxed..i.e. no bind.

If they're, or one is tight...the shifter adj. nuts need to be moved.

Lastly.., give a lot of thought about conv. to a 5sp. ----unless you do a lot of frwy. runn'n ...or rock'n

 

[Wild King]

GEESE...!The only thing I can see, at this point, is;

If the 2nd/3rd shift shaft isn't in neutral (sitting in the "indent") ....the 1st/reverse shaft won't want to move.

You could try pulling the cotter keys (trannie in neutral) that are holding the 2 shift rods in place.....then shift the two bellcranks (one at a time) & see if they stop in the 3 indents... forward, back.., & back to neutral.

And they should be in that neutral position when the rods are re-inserted..& the rods should be somewhat relaxed..i.e. no bind.

If they're, or one is tight...the shifter adj. nuts need to be moved.

Lastly.., give a lot of thought about conv. to a 5sp. ----unless you do a lot of frwy. runn'n ...or rock'n

Last night I tried the forward, back.., & back to neutral on both shift rods... They all seem to work fine when the bronco is not moving. but as soon as I took it for a ride... no downshifting into 1st while moving. :angry:

Thanks for advise Bully Bob... What do you think about the NV3550 for a daily driver

 

[Bully Bob]

"Thanks for advise Bully Bob... What do you think about the NV3550 for a daily driver..?"

I'm hardly a trannie expert here.., was hoping one would chime in on this... :-B

But.., if you do the math (amortize) (if that's the right word).., Weighing the cost $2-3K vs. the miles (maybe yrs.) it takes to catch-up due to the milage savings B/4 breaking even......then.., I don't like the idea.

Most folks would prob. not even use 1st. gear...or 5th. (way too much {constant} shifting)

UNLESS.., commuting daily long distances...or...lots of dirt & rock'n.

Having said that...., I'm sure that's a good tranie & would go together w/o too much hassle. B)

NOTE; I don't downshift 'til I'm below 5 mph if at all (brakes are cheaper than clutches & synchros) ......

Is this the speed you're refering to..? or much higher..?

Lastly.., call, or email Wildhorses...they re-build trannies right there.... 209 943-0991 wildhorses4x4.com

I bet they've seen your prob. many times.

HTH

B

 

[Wild King]

"Thanks for advise Bully Bob... What do you think about the NV3550 for a daily driver..?"
I'm hardly a trannie expert here.., was hoping one would chime in on this... :-B

But.., if you do the math (amortize) (if that's the right word).., Weighing the cost $2-3K vs. the miles (maybe yrs.) it takes to catch-up due to the milage savings B/4 breaking even......then.., I don't like the idea.

Most folks would prob. not even use 1st. gear...or 5th. (way too much {constant} shifting)

UNLESS.., commuting daily long distances...or...lots of dirt & rock'n.

Having said that...., I'm sure that's a good tranie & would go together w/o too much hassle. B)

NOTE; I don't downshift 'til I'm below 5 mph if at all (brakes are cheaper than clutches & synchros) ......

Is this the speed you're refering to..? or much higher..?

Lastly.., call, or email Wildhorses...they re-build trannies right there.... 209 943-0991 wildhorses4x4.com

I bet they've seen your prob. many times.

HTH

Ya, my downshifting into 1st is usually around that 5mph range. I've been ******* people off when I have to stop to put into 1st gear instead of coasting through an area. 2nd gear doesn't work well @ that speed. I'll give WHs a call tomorrow.

thanks again

B