Clutch, Fuel Gauge, Etc.

[Bradt]

Ok, here's a bunch of questions about different odds and ends I have left to do.

Before I start it is a 1988 6-cylinder with fuel injection.

My clutch doesn't seem to be working right. I press it just about to the floor, before it feels like it's engaging. It's hard to shift sometimes, and when I start it up it is sometimes nearly impossible to get into first. I have to go to third or fourth and press the gas a touch to get it to move, then go to first. Can this be adjusted, or does my now broke self just have to deal with it? If so how and where?

The fuel gauge hasn't worked since I got it. I'm pretty sure it's the sending unit, but I'll need to test it to be 100%. It registers full then doesn't move until I get to about 1/4 tank, and starts to float between E and 1/4. Are these pretty straightforward to change? Will I need special tools or anything?

My oil pressure gauge doesn't seem to be working either. I think I have a slow leak in the oil line somewhere that I'm trying to track. Is there any way to check the oil pressure other than the gauge? If the pressure's fine this will probably turn into a back-burner project .

I've been informed that my speedometer is reading about 10mph slower than I'm going. I hear a rattling noise behind the speedometer so I'm thinking it may need to be replaced. The Schmucks that replaced the cable on it last time seem to think the average hand is about .25 inches thick judging by the gap they left to get behind there. Should I start by replacing, or is there a way to check the calibration? This isn't too big a problem for me since I live in GA and as anyone driving through here knows, you have to be near flying to get a ticket. I didn't notice I was off since when I was traveling what I thought was the speed limit I'd get passed by everyone.

I think I might be better off if this truck just ran on dollar bills at the rate I'm going.

Thanks,

Brad

 

[Justshootme84]

If you're not careful, the little things can add up and quickly drain your wallet for sure!!! Most of this minor stuff you can live with or work around, but the clutch is something that must be taken care of before you get stranded. It sounds like the pressure plate is worn out, and prolly the disc, too. You should replace both at the same time. You do have some adjustment in the linkage for the pedal though.

The gas tank sending unit is something to live with. It is notorious for acting up, just before it completely quits working. Changing it is a bear, as you need to drop the gas tank. I would only do it if you have a leaky tank and need to replace that, too. You can go by your odometer/mileage, and even if the speedo is off, you can figure when to fill up.

There are different gear ratios you can get for the speedometer that go in the transfer case, just check with a Ford dealer on that. The rattling noise is caused by a dry cable. Lubing it with graphite is the solution, but it's tough to get in there like you said. I have also learned to live with that.

You can try changing the oil pressure sending unit, it's not hard at all. It is really just an "idiot-type" gauge, so I don't hold much faith in it. As long as I don't hear any knocking in the motor and the oil level is fine, I keep on driving. Check the oil EVERY time you get ready to drive. IT not only lets you keep track of how much oil is lost from normal wear and any leaks, but can show the first signs of any trouble, like water or fuel in the crankcase.

Once you get the Bronco running up to par, she will serve you well. Truly a great vehicle for getting to wherever you want to go!!!

 

[DesertBronco]

Bradt,

Had the same problem with my 87 w/EFI (302), and replaced the sending unit (in the tank) and works 4.0 now. Not sure if it's the same for yours, but if it is, you might as well replace the in-tank fuel pump (if equipped) while you're in there. It's kind of a pain to drop the tank ... just a lot of bolts to undo. I used my motorcycle jack to support the tank while unbolting it and worked out well. Also did the same job using a regular floor jack and a 2x4 frame I made to support it on a friends 88.

Also had the same problem with the 'wandering idle' like you have described. Changed out the IACV and seemed to help. The big fixes that took care of it all: new PCV valve, new O2 sensor and also found some tired hoses running to and fro in the throttle body area. None of the hoses were cracked pinched or punctured, but changed them anyways. I've heard that the computer had some 'loops' it goes through until it finally ignores things like a possible bad O2 sensor and smooths out, but have not seen that in writing anywhere. Someone else may have more info on this than me. When I finally pull the motor this winter, I may pull the computer and switch back to carbs like on my desert rat 69 ...

Hope that helps and in anyone reading has more tips, please post!

DesertB.