Block Heaters?

[jstevenson509]

So my Bronco sits for weeks at a time. Usually 1 or 2 so far and will probably stay that way.

& it is out in the elements, that isn't fixable on my budget.

When I go to start it, I have to hold the gas pedal, feeding it gas or it will die.

If I try to drive too soon it will die when I stop or just have no power.

But I hear a definite change in sound from a bogging down (wavy) sound to a nice thick rumble it should have when she's ready to be driven.

Sometime around 5 minutes.

After that first start, it runs great, starts great, flawless everything.

Whatcha guys think?

I saw a 78or79 today with a 3prong plug hanging from the front, gorgeous rig btw, but I assumed that might be a block heater.

Would that help at all during cold months and long waits?

She doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke, nothing. Just bogs a while. :wacko:

Thanks!

P.S. Finally got new(used) wheels&tires!

 

[STLKIKN]

3 prong plug is probably a block heater plug...

Even up here in Calgary, I don't use mine until it hits about -20 c (-4 farenheit)

It will help your cold start, but probably isn't the source of your problem.

I would think from your description that your choke is out of adjustment.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

3 prong plug is probably a block heater plug...Even up here in Calgary, I don't use mine until it hits about -20 c (-4 farenheit)

It will help your cold start, but probably isn't the source of your problem.

I would think from your description that your choke is out of adjustment.

I agree. I rewrote my response three times and in the mean time STLIKN did it much more sucsinctly (spelling).

There should be a choke adjustment on your carburetor that is spring loaded. Most of them from that era had a little black cap with three screws on it. You want to rotate it when the engine is cold so that the choke is fully closed. As the spring inside the cap gets hot, it will expand and open the choke more and more until it is fully open.

joe

 

[Broncobill78]

While you can try adjusting the choke don't hold your breath expecting any miracles. It's a 30yr old truck and the way it's acting is pretty much what all of them do. You'll probably find that you can adjust the choke a bit to run a little better when it's cold but then you'll find out that it doesn't run so great when it's hot & it won't like restarting when hot either. All this *Assumes* that the hot-air tube from the manifold hasn't corroded into nothingness. IF it were a new engine w/new carb, etc, etc sure, you could adjust it dead on and it would probably run pretty good, but truth be told even a GOOD running carb'd engine only does so-so in the cold, snow & ice.

Yeah, that's a block heater. One of my other Bronco's was Canadian built and it came with dual block heaters, one of the freeze-plugs on either side was replaced with a heater. Now THOSE make a difference. Being able to plug the truck in all night and having the entire engine already warm at startup is like night & day. I routinely kept mine plugged in and loved it. Even up in Caribou, Maine at -25* with more skimobiles on the road than trucks it was great to have the engine fire up on the first try and start blowing warm air right off the bat. I can't say enuf about them. It's well worth the investment.

 

[STLKIKN]

Sorry Broncobill, but I have to disagree with you.

A properly adjusted choke will not interfere with warm run or hot start-up. If the choke flap is staying closed when the engine is hot, the choke is too tight.

As for the hot air tube... I haven't run one on any of my trucks for years, and setting the choke properly, you don't need to. (open element filters) They aid in quicker warm up times, nothing else.

To check the choke...

With the engine cold (only way to set it properly)

Remove air filter assembly

Find the choke stat (round black plastic on pass side of carb)

Make sure it is held on with screws and not rivets (some are riveted from the factory)

Open the throttle plates by hand all the way to fully open (allows the choke spring to fully close the choke plate)

The choke should now be set, release the throttle linkage, the choke plate should open about 1/8 of an inch from the air horn.

If this has all happened as it is described, you should be able to start the truck and it should run at 1500 to 1800 rpm.

DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL AS YOU TRY AND START THE TRUCK, THE CHOKE WILL RELEASE IF YOU DO!!!

If any of the above steps don't work on your truck, post up your results, and I'll walk you through the set-up as best as possible over the net...

Drew

 

[Broncobill78]

Well, Uh, yeah, Ok, sure, I can get with that. Disagree all you want, I have plenty of beer.

After all, we're a country that was *founded* upon disagreements. I imagine if the colonists had agree'd with ole' King George things would have turned out very differently for THAT poor bastard & we'd all be sitting down for tea right now & mocking the French (well, I guess we do half of that anyways, but the tea might be nice. Does it mix with *** ?).

Now, on the other hand, if we want to deal with *reality*................

I agree, you pump the pedal the the floor *once*, start the truck & then don't f#ck with it. If it's GOING to work that's your best chance. Now I have to REstate and stand by my previous comments that most 30yr old trucks will behave in exactly this manner, regardless of what you do with the choke. Adjusting it for cold starts will ***** it up when warm and setting it to run well while warm will cause it to start hard when cold. That's just the nature of the beast.

If you're is running fine without a hot-air tube then more power to ya, you're either far enough South to enjoy the benefits or Global Warming isn't such a bad thing afterall /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Truth be told, as far as I'm concerned it depends on a LOT of things, the condition of the engine itself, the carb, the choke itself, the choke rod, the fast idle cam & springs, etc, etc. Just taking a *quick* look thru the factory manual made my head spin w/all the associated parts (been a long time since I screwed w/a MotorCraft 2150). A ****** engine can run well for a time with a new carb & good choke. a Moderate engine with a ****** carb will run OK for awhile with a new choke. There are more variations to this theme than I care to count. What I was discussing was consistant, reliable, easy starts in cold to extremely cold weather and quite frankly it's been *my* experience that the average 30yr old truck/engine/carb & choke combo just isn't up to it *regardless* of what voodoo is performed or how many chickens are sacraficed. Sure, an old engine with a new carb & a new choke can be made to run well for a season or two, but in the end it all has a way of adding up.

 

[jstevenson509]

Okay, well thank you both.

Seeing as it rarely gets below 0*f here, and I'll almost never take her out when it's even below 20* a block heater's probably just impractical and like you guys said, not the problem.

I'll go check my choke like you said, STLKIKN, and let you know how it goes. And thanks bill, I figure it was probably me screwing with the gas pedal that is the problem.. *embarrassing*. I'll be patient next time.

If it is, in fact, a double edged sword, I'd rather it be a rough cold start than a rough warm one.