Another new guy

[Caradoc]

Looked around here a bit and liked what I saw. I expect to learn a lot.

I'm in SoCal low desert. Always figured there was a Bronco in my future and decided a couple of weeks ago that -- with less than a year before retirement -- it was time to find a 1996 XLT or Eddie Bauer with 351 and manual transfer case so I'd have time to get it ready to join my little Max IV 6x6 (25 hp Kohler) as the only two vehicles I'll need up in the mountains. Had mixed feelings about transmission: manual for fun versus automatic for smoother towing.

Ended up with auto trans in white XLT. Good body and mechanicals but high mileage. Fortunately, when new it was converted by University of Utah to run on compressed natural gas (CNG) until empty and switch to gasoline only when needed. Advantage of CNG is no trace of liquid to wash oil from top piston rings, Also, no ash from combustion so oil is still yellow when you change it. Engine durability shoudn't be a problem especially since I'll be using synthetic motor oil.

Some of these questions may belong elsewhere, in which case just say so and I'll repost.

* Any source for true fold-down convertible top like Skylar used to make?

* Any experience with whether there's enough length in drivetrain for a Gear Vendors gearsplitter overdrive? (I have a less-than-500 mile unit with frontend set up for C6.)

* If I remember right, a C6 will bolt up to a 351 Cleveland. Also true for 351 Windsor? Or did some Broncos come 351C?

* Or could it be that the more modern transmission can actually compete with the reliable old C6? If so, does it have a vacuum modulator valve? Is there an agreed upon opinion about shift kits/ valve bodies, etc.? (Looking mostly for durability here.)

* If planning to keep it forever, does it make sense to spring $500 or so for extra transfer case? I'm thinking "Rebuild #1 while driving #2," then rotate them again every so often as the years roll by.

* Any thoughts on the high output alternators I see on Ebay? (Don't want to buy junk/ want to do it right/ am willing to upgrade to 4/0 AWG cable and find a home for an extra Optima.)

Probably a dozen more questions, but can't remember what they are. They'll come back to me.

Good to be here!

Caradoc

bronco_leftrear_small.bmp

 

[BroncoXLT85]

Hey,

An answer to one of your questions. The C-6 for 4-wheel drive trucks comes in 2 different bolt patterns. Actually they are pretty much the same pattern but with different spacing between the bolt holes. The modifieds (351M & 400M) use the bigger bolt pattern and the Windsor and 302 uses the smaller pattern. I'm not sure about the 351C?

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone > . Post a few pictures when you get a chance.

* If I remember right, a C6 will bolt up to a 351 Cleveland. Also true for 351 Windsor? Or did some Broncos come 351C?

Or could it be that the more modern transmission can actually compete with the reliable old C6? If so, does it have a vacuum modulator valve? Is there an agreed upon opinion about shift kits/ valve bodies, etc.? (Looking mostly for durability here.)

I wouldn't be too concerned about the 351C too much, they were not installed in a Bronco. Also the 96 did not have a C6 in it, it is either a 4R70W or E4OD.

* If planning to keep it forever, does it make sense to spring $500 or so for extra transfer case? I'm thinking "Rebuild #1 while driving #2," then rotate them again every so often as the years roll by.

Ask a pack rat if it is worth having anything /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I think it is a good idea to have something like that setting around. You will probably be able to get them for years to come, but having one all rebuilt and ready to go would certainly reduce down time if one fails.

* Any thoughts on the high output alternators I see on Ebay? (Don't want to buy junk/ want to do it right/ am willing to upgrade to 4/0 AWG cable and find a home for an extra Optima.

You already have a 3G alternator which is the best one Ford used. Most likely you have a 95 amp version and can easily upgrade it to a 135, 160 or even a 200 amp monster. The main advantage is the amperage one of these can put out at idle. A common misconception of alternators is that they put out the same level at all times, probably based on a misunderstanding of test data. So,

lesson #1; Alternators are tested to show what they are capable of putting out at full load. So what the graphs show is maximum capability at X RPM.

Lesson #2Alternator RPM is figured by dividing the drive pully diameter by the alternator pully diameter and multiplying by the engine RPM. Once you know that interpretation of a output graph is simple.

Lesson #3; An alternator only puts out what the electrical system demands of it as long as that is within it's capabilities at the RPM it is turning at. When first starting it supplies the electrical system demands and restores the battery to full charge. When the battery is fully charged then the load demand is reduced to what the engine, radio, lights, etc. require.

Lesson #4Unless you are adding a bunch of stuff like high power stereo, Light bars, winches, etc. a 200 amp alternator probably is a waste of money. Sort of like having a 500 Hp engine and driving at 30 mph all the time /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

Lesson #5;Base your alternator size on the estimated vehicle electrical system demand and put in a little extra for future expansion. The one that came in the truck is just fine for as the factory delivered it. If, for example you were to convert to a electrical fan like I have you will need to bump it up to a 135 amp system because the 95 amp alternator may not be able to keep up with the demand causing the battery to discharge by making up the short fall.

Lesson #6;Unless your alternator is supplying a 200 amp load continuously a 4/0 cable is way over ***** even a #4 cable can stand 160+ amps for a short period of time, (cable ratings are based on environment), and I doubt that you could find a lug for a 4/0 cable that would fit the post on the alternator. For normal operation a #2 cable is plenty. Here is a sight with a lot of information on alternators and also sells them at a real reasonable price. Also, they have other parts like harnesses, connectors, **** fuses, etc. (I have delt with them several times and have never had a problem. Also, I have no relationship with them other than a customer) http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=21

Hope that helps. I've obvioulsy left a lot out but I hope this gives you a better idea about alternator requirements.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Seabronc]

One thing I left out. I got my 135 Amp alternator from my local friendly auto recycler. However, I still baught the parts from Ford Fuel Injection to rebuild it so the cost to me was nearly the same as buying one from them that can just be dropped in. Actually, figuring in my labor time it was a lot more expensive. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Good luck,

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Caradoc]

Thanks to all! I knew there was a lot to learn here.

I mailed the check only last Thursday so I'll be lucky if the Bronco is even headed in my direction by Saturday. Meanwhile, I'm attaching a composite made up of photos from the seller.

Other than mirrors, locking hubs, and the Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) setup, it looks like nothing much has been done to it. The CNG tank uses up a lot of valuable cargo space so I'm thinking about losing the rear seats and relocating the tank to that locaction.

Caradoc