All I want to do is drive the damn thing!

[bigjake]

Okay, I just bought this '69 Bronco two weeks ago and it ran but didn't stop. So, I redid the brakes and while I was doing that I decided to rebuild the carb because it was leaking a lot of gas from the accelerator pump housing.

Now, I have a Bronco that stops but doesn't run and all I want to do is drive it for the first time!

I rebuilt the Autolite 2100 and now it idles rough and dies on acceleration because it's getting too much gas. The entire ignition system is new. Where should I look?

 

[Seabronc]

If the carb is getting too much gas after a rebuild, the first thing I would check is the float level and idle mixture adjustment. If it is too high fuel will leak into the carb.

>-

 

[bigjake]

...and all I want to do is drive it for the first time!

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Okay, well I said f%ck it, took the core in and bought a remanufactured 2100 for $96 from AutoZone. It's worth $100 to not have to mess with it any longer (I've already spent about 2 full days on it) and to be able to drive it for the first time!!!

Now it's time to pass emissions, grab collector plates and install my JBG lift and ProComp mudders... Yee Haw! 8^|>

 

[Seabronc]

Okay, well I said f%ck it, took the core in and bought a remanufactured 2100 for $96 from AutoZone. It's worth $100 to not have to mess with it any longer (I've already spent about 2 full days on it) and to be able to drive it for the first time!!!
Now it's time to pass emissions, grab collector plates and install my JBG lift and ProComp mudders... Yee Haw!  8^|>

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Didn't want to depress you with my last post. That is the same thing I did with the Ford Holley that was on mine. Rebuild kits don't cover all the issues in an old carb. Baught a new 4160 4bbl and what a difference. Glad you are on the road /

Good luck,

>-

 

[Bandit]

&lt

BigJake'I went through the carb hassle for a while,I wish you luck.On my 73,I had the original two barrell start to leak,I bought a rebuild,never quite ran right.Bought a new Edelbrock 600...ran O.K....not great.Recently,I down sized to a new Holley Truck Avenger 470 cfm...best its ever run..Im not a huge Holley fan...but its been real user friendly,and really runs great.

Bandit...awesome ,73 :-B

 

[S_bolt19]

Bandit, How well does the Truck Avenger run off road? I have used Holleys and they all ran like a striped assed ape on the road but turned into a 3 legged dog when you got them off the pavement. In my experience, the only thing a Holley is good for is street use, so I am curious as to how well it actually does when put to climbing use.

 

[Seabronc]

Bandit, How well does the Truck Avenger run off road? I have used Holleys and they all ran like a striped assed ape on the road but turned into a 3 legged dog when you got them off the pavement. In my experience, the only thing a Holley is good for is street use, so I am curious as to how well it actually does when put to climbing use.

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I believe you are right. I haven't heard much good about Holley carbs in Off Road conditions. Holleys real environment is WOT and they excell there. They aren't the most fuel efficient as they come stock either.

>-

 

[bigjake]

It sounds like most of you in this thread are running aftermarket carbs, but does anyone have any experience with jets on these stock carbs at altitude?

I live in Denver (5,280 ft) and will be spending most of my time in the Bronco between 6,000 and 10,000 ft. The auto parts stores don't seem to know anything about alternate jets for this carb (neither does the company who remanufactured it), but it seems to be running a little lean (at least it's running now).

Any other rocky mountain Bronco owners know the best way to go here?

 

[S_bolt19]

Jake

I ran the stock carb for about 3 years, went to a Holley for about 3, back to stock for about 2 and now have run EFI the past 3 years. I never had a problem running the stock jets, for that matter, I never changed them. I am here in the Springs, which is 1000 feet higher than Denver is and the only thing I ever did to get it running right was adjust the timing and mess with the fuel mixture screws.

Stock timing is like 6 BTDC and you should add 1 degree for every thousand feet of elevation. So in your case I would time at 11 and if you wanted to, go about 11.5 for good measure and then play with the mixture screws to get it right. Every truck is going to be different so just take your time and play with it until it is correct or to the point where it will pass emissions and you can get collector tags then put it where you like it. Once you have those collector tags, you dont ever have to emission it again so you can play with it to get the correct fuel/air mixture and not what the state tells you you have to have.

 

[bigjake]

Awesome, thanks! Timing at altitude was my next question...

I used that same rule of thumb on my old '67 Ch#vy pro-street truck, but I didn't know if that applied to Ford because it wasn't working with my old carb... Obviously, it was the carb's fault.

Jake

 

[bigjake]

I popped her cherry! I finally got her tuned up right and took her out for the first time last night! She's a screamer!

Man, I had forgotten what a carbureted V8 feels like. This Bronco feels like a friggen hot rod! It's got killer compression for being relatively untouched for 36 years. It's been 12 years since I was burning the treads off of my '67 F-100 (390) in the high school parking lot.

I don't know what the Autolite 2100 (1.08) carb that I replaced ran like before, but the 1.23 sure felt hot when I layed into it.

Thanks for all of the advice and tips. Now it's time to lift and add meat.

Jake