67 Bronco jumps to left

[cars]

new here.been reading some posts lately and there seems to be knowledgable people hear.i just recently restored a 67 Bronco. i converted the manual steering to power from a 75 donor. i had the gear box checked and new seals installed and everything seemed fine. i adjusted the gear box after installation. on my test run it wants to jump badly to the left everytime i hit a bump or rut. i am going to install a new C bushing kit. will this corect the problem? it has 33" tires that are in good shape. steering linkage seems fine(everything is tight). it has a 3 1/2 lift and planning on larger tires. any suggestions? alignment man says steering gear box, mechanic says tires. HELP.

 

[Bully Bob]

Welcome...!!

Doubt it's the tires., or the box...if installed correctly.

Sounds like the typical "bump-steer" created by a lift-kit.

Look from the front of veh. to see if the drag link & track bar are parallel. (they need to be pretty close to parallel)

The track bar attaches to the axle on pass. side., & to the frame on the dr. side. This is adjustable by raising the pass. side or lowering the dr. side to create a parallel (or close to) alignment.

The drag link runs fr. the pitman arm on the box, to the tie rod. Pitman arm may need replacing with a drop pitman arm.

Any one, or possibly a combination of these will cure the problem.

With a 3.5" lift you may need only the droped pitman arm.

While you're there., check the track bar for worn/sloppy bushings on both ends.

 

[cars]

Welcome...!!Doubt it's the tires., or the box...if installed correctly.

Sounds like the typical "bump-steer" created by a lift-kit.

Look from the front of veh. to see if the drag link & track bar are parallel. (they need to be pretty close to parallel)

The track bar attaches to the axle on pass. side., & to the frame on the dr. side. This is adjustable by raising the pass. side or lowering the dr. side to create a parallel (or close to) alignment.

The drag link runs fr. the pitman arm on the box, to the tie rod. Pitman arm may need replacing with a drop pitman arm.

Any one, or possibly a combination of these will cure the problem.

With a 3.5" lift you may need only the droped pitman arm.

While you're there., check the track bar for worn/sloppy bushings on both ends.

 

[cars]

thanks for the info. already have the drop pitman. was the first thing i did. do they sell the brackets or do they have to be fabricated?

 

[Bully Bob]

All the EB houses have the "track-bar drop brackets". (for dr. side) Bolt-on & sometimes tack-welded as well.

The pass. side riser req. welding on the axle. (I think it's S bolt{on this site} that's familiar with these)

Sooo.., one would assume they're not parallel (or nearly so)..?

 

[QuoteWarz]

I would think you might want to go for the weld in ones as better more reliable choice.

 

[Bully Bob]

thanks for the info. already have the drop pitman. was the first thing i did. do they sell the brackets or do they have to be fabricated?

Just noticed., Wild Horses has the trac-bar riser on sale....

 

[cars]

just ordered one from graveyard

 

[S_bolt19]

I like the track bar riser on the axle more than the drop bracket because of strength issues on the frame and also the torque it puts up there. The drop brackets are ok if you are 90/10 - street/dirt but you really should go with an axle riser if you are using more dirt than street.