windshield molding removal?

[90bronco86]

My windshield on my 90 has a pretty bad leak in it and i want to seal it with cylicone untill i can afford to replace it, but i dont know how the chrome pieces come off, i dont want to break them but i cannot stand the leak anymore,

 

[miesk5]

yo 90,

Windshield Moulding Clip pic & Part Number E1DZ-6629100 in 80-96



Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

Windshield Moulding Removal & Tool Instructions & pics in 80-96; "...Nothing clips to the glass; they all go on rivet studs in the body. There are ~16 of the upper clips & ~7 of the lower ones, but they're all reuseable. All 80-96 trucks use the same clips & moulding, and this tool works for both clips. See the NEXT few pics for more info. The tool slips under the windshield trim. Slide it to hook the clips, beginning at a joint near a corner; Hold the tool at an angle so one point goes behind the clip. Turn the tool to pry the clip slightly toward the center of the w/s, then lift the trim just enough to disengage it from the clip. The lower trim clips are different, but they're released the same way..."

Source: by Steve; see more info & pics @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/515203

 

[90bronco86]

yo 90,

Windshield Moulding Clip pic & Part Number E1DZ-6629100 in 80-96



Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

Windshield Moulding Removal & Tool Instructions & pics in 80-96; "...Nothing clips to the glass; they all go on rivet studs in the body. There are ~16 of the upper clips & ~7 of the lower ones, but they're all reuseable. All 80-96 trucks use the same clips & moulding, and this tool works for both clips. See the NEXT few pics for more info. The tool slips under the windshield trim. Slide it to hook the clips, beginning at a joint near a corner; Hold the tool at an angle so one point goes behind the clip. Turn the tool to pry the clip slightly toward the center of the w/s, then lift the trim just enough to disengage it from the clip. The lower trim clips are different, but they're released the same way..."

Source: by Steve; see more info & pics @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/515203

Where can i find that tool? And what should i use to seal the windshield that wont effect putting the molding back on

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Check local body shop supply store or ask local parts store; should be under $7.00 or so

by www

Molding Removal Tool

Item #52021 C

Windshield molding clips are quickly disengaged with this hook

Only $4.99

http://www.eastwood.com/molding-removal-tool.html

A WS INstall

SM is down right now; ck later for pics

This wasnt the best install job I have seen but it was the cheapest in town and it keeps the rain out. My repair involved me removing the windshield and the glass guys installing the new glass. The ticket said $80 for the glass and $40 for the work ($120 total with tax). IMO $40 was still a little high for 15 minutes of work but thought of it more like $1 for the work and $39 for the know how. If they remove your old trim and remove your old glass for you its probably worth the $40. I didnt want to argue because they were $30 cheaper than anyone else. On we go...

1. Trim Removal. Remove the windshield however you are supposed to on your particular model. For the 86, you must first remove the chrome trim that surrounds the windshield. The left, right, and upper pieces come off with a quick snap using a ***** driver or other tool. The bottom is a little trickier but I did it with a ***** driver and did not damage anything. Be careful with the bottom chrome as it is one continuous piece and can easily get bent if you are not careful with it.

2. Seal Removal. Depending on who installed your glass, you either have a soft butyl seal or a super hard urethane seal. Mine had a butyl seal so I used a long putty knife and just pushed all around the seal until it was loose. I then pushed the glass from the inside and it slowly gave way as more and more seal let go. If you have a urethane seal, I think you are better off using the piano wire method or just kicking the glass out and not worry about breaking it. If you are planning on reusing the glass I will say you can recover it 100% of the time with a butyl seal and maybe 50% with a urethane seal.

3. Prep. Now that the windshield is removed, clean the contact areas where the windshield sits REALLY well so you have a good surface to adhear to when you install the new glass. The tech that did my glass just brought glass cleaner to wipe off the residue. I didnt think this was enough so I was glad I had cleaned it up on my own before he arrived. The best stuff I found for removing the butyl was gas but I am sure there is a better solution. If you have rust spots on your winshield seal, be sure and clean and seal these before reinstalling the glass.

4. Clean. Clean the glass inside thoroughly before installing to ensure a good seal. A fancy glass holder is nice to have but a cardboard box or trash can lid would probably do the same job.

5. Spacers. There are two spacers that held my windshield on center. They are very important and ensure a proper fit. These need to be layed down before the urethane to ensure they fit snug against the windshield seal. (See pic below step 6. They are the pieces laying on the hood.)

6. Urethane. Lay a thick bead of the new urethane using a calk gun making sure to apply an even coat all around the windshield seat. I have seen people run a triangular bead but this guy just layed it on really thick. This is where I wasnt too pleased with the install. The tech used a powered calk gun which was cool but he wasnt very precise with his placement of the urethane. This is covered up by your chrome trim but I still would have been more careful had I done it myself.

7. Install. You have a thick bead of urethane and you have a nice clean piece of glass. The tech used a suction cup to help steady the glass as he installed it but it can easily be done without the cup. Better yet, ask a neighbor of friend to help. If you installed your spacers correctly, you wont have any problems with the install.

8. Adjusting. After placing the glass, fine tune adjust the glass to center it from side to side. Don't move it too much or you could ruin your freshly laid seal. Be careful when laying in the glass and you will be fine. I would recommend placing the bottom of the glass on the spacers and then slowly lowering it onto the seal. Give it a little twist and push action like you are installing tile on a floor. Take a look all around the glass to be sure you have good coverage around the entire edge of the glass. You have a few minutes before the urethane starts to set up but if would be a huge mess if you have to remove the glass and try again.

9. Tape job. The tech used some super strong masking tape to give a little more support to the windshield while the urethane cured.

10. Let dry. Give it about 2 hours before you start to put the chrome back on. I let mine sit in the garage for a couple days because I wasnt in a hurry.

11. Trim Reinstall. I placed the bottom in first, then the sides, and then the top. This worked out the easiest. If you notice your windshield clips are not very clean or are broken, stop by your local dealer and pick up some replacements for a couple bucks each. If noone local has them, I know you can find them on ebay.

by soonerkid

 

[miesk5]

yo,

here is more Windshield Installation in a 96

by FORD

 

[Rons beast]

Hey 90,

Get the tool M5 has shown. It's essential for removing the clips. You don't have to remove the windshield to seal it unless the seal is so bad it's practically ready to fall out.

Get 2 tubes of "Flow Grade" windshield sealer. It must be flow grade...regular silicone,or glass caulking will not work.

Flow Grade sealer, "flows" as the name implies, and will flow into any area where water would flow. ( It seaks voids and openings, to seal leaks.)

First lay the part of the tool that looks like an arrow flat on the glass, pointing toward the moulding.

Starting at or near an end of the moulding, slide the tool under the moulding , keeping it flat on the glass.

Move (slide) the tool up or down the moulding to find a clip. When you do rotate the tools handle toward the side where you feel the clip, and try "catch" the edge of the clip with the tool. ( the clips hold the outside of the mouldin)

Keeping the tool flat on the glass, gently pry opposite the direction of the clip to disengage it from the moulding.

As you do, pry up on the moulding. It should come loose from the clip.

(DO NOT PRY UP OR DOWN, CAUSING PREASURE ON THE GLASS!!! YOU COULD CRACK THE WINDSHIELD.)

Repeat for the remaining clips and the moulding comes off.

Clean the area. An old paint brush is good for removing loose debris. Then blow it off with compressed air, or vacuum with a shop vac.

When the windshield edge is clean apply the flow grade sealer in the groove, starting at the top center of the windshield.

Continue with a single bead down the sides.

( you do not have to remove the moulding clips.)

Wait at least an hour to allow the sealer to flow and seal any leaks.

The sealer can be injected in any voids seen along the bottom of the glass, but this is very unlikely.

after the sealer is cured, test with a hose.

Reinstall the moulding and you're done.

All that being said, water may be leaking in from debris building up in the corners of the lower cowl. ( leaves, dirt, etc.).

It gets caught there and a hole can rust through leving an opening inside the cab at the upper part of the dash.

Easiest way to tell is to get a friend and a very bright light. Get under the dash. Shine the bright light up i the back corners, and have the friend look for light from the outside. ( Obviously, this works much better at night.)

If you have a rust hole it can be filled with a hardening putty, and covered again with Flow Grade Sealer, from the outside.

Good Luck

 

[90bronco86]

Hey 90,

Get the tool M5 has shown. It's essential for removing the clips. You don't have to remove the windshield to seal it unless the seal is so bad it's practically ready to fall out.

Get 2 tubes of "Flow Grade" windshield sealer. It must be flow grade...regular silicone,or glass caulking will not work.

Flow Grade sealer, "flows" as the name implies, and will flow into any area where water would flow. ( It seaks voids and openings, to seal leaks.)

First lay the part of the tool that looks like an arrow flat on the glass, pointing toward the moulding.

Starting at or near an end of the moulding, slide the tool under the moulding , keeping it flat on the glass.

Move (slide) the tool up or down the moulding to find a clip. When you do rotate the tools handle toward the side where you feel the clip, and try "catch" the edge of the clip with the tool. ( the clips hold the outside of the mouldin)

Keeping the tool flat on the glass, gently pry opposite the direction of the clip to disengage it from the moulding.

As you do, pry up on the moulding. It should come loose from the clip.

(DO NOT PRY UP OR DOWN, CAUSING PREASURE ON THE GLASS!!! YOU COULD CRACK THE WINDSHIELD.)

Repeat for the remaining clips and the moulding comes off.

Clean the area. An old paint brush is good for removing loose debris. Then blow it off with compressed air, or vacuum with a shop vac.

When the windshield edge is clean apply the flow grade sealer in the groove, starting at the top center of the windshield.

Continue with a single bead down the sides.

( you do not have to remove the moulding clips.)

Wait at least an hour to allow the sealer to flow and seal any leaks.

The sealer can be injected in any voids seen along the bottom of the glass, but this is very unlikely.

after the sealer is cured, test with a hose.

Reinstall the moulding and you're done.

All that being said, water may be leaking in from debris building up in the corners of the lower cowl. ( leaves, dirt, etc.).

It gets caught there and a hole can rust through leving an opening inside the cab at the upper part of the dash.

Easiest way to tell is to get a friend and a very bright light. Get under the dash. Shine the bright light up i the back corners, and have the friend look for light from the outside. ( Obviously, this works much better at night.)

If you have a rust hole it can be filled with a hardening putty, and covered again with Flow Grade Sealer, from the outside.

Good Luck

Awesome, that helps alot thank you,