Where does one place an engine block heater at?

[Hiddenmidgard]

Hello all,
I have a dry desert rig 87 302, that i feel I need to have a block heater put in it being where I am in MT. I don't know where would be the best location to place it. Tried using the interwebs to find something but no luck or I'm searching for wrong words. I have picked up what looks like a freeze plug v lock style one. Just unsure which plug would be best placement. Thanks in advance.

 

[miesk5]

Yo HIDDEN,
Installation; "... In some climates, and often for diesels in any climate, some freeze plugs are replaced by a block heater; most often with a common plug for 110VAC household power routed to the grille so that it can be plugged into an extension cord overnight..."
Freeze Plugs & Block Heater

Core Plugs

Removal and Installation

To remove a large core plug, drill a 12.70mm (1/2-inch) hole in the center of the plug and remove with an Impact Slide Hammer T59L-100-B or T50T-100-A or pry it out with a large drift punch. On a small core plug, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole in the center of the plug and pry it out with a small pin punch. Clean and inspect the plug bore.

Prior to installing a core plug, the plug bore should be inspected for any damage that would interfere with the proper sealing of the plug. If the bore is damaged, it will be necessary to true the surface by boring for the next specified oversize plug.

Oversize (OS) plugs are identified by the OS stamped in the flat located on the cup side of the plug.

Coat the plug and/or bore lightly with an oil-resistant (oil galley) Sealing Compound E0AZ-19554-B or EZAZ-19544-B or equivalent and install it following the procedure for cup-type or expansion type below:

Cup-Type

Cup-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge outward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the outer edge of the ******. The ****** on cup-type plugs flares outward with the largest diameter of the outer (sealing) edge.

Expansion-Type

Expansion-type core plugs are installed with the ****** edge inward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the base of the ****** with the ****** flaring inward.

CAUTION: It is imperative to push or drive the plug into the machined bore using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven using a tool that contacts the crowned portion of the plug. This method will expand the plug prior to installation and may damage the plug and/or plug bore.

When installed, the trailing (maximum) diameter must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.

CAUTION: It is imperative to pull the plug into the machined bore by using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven into the bore using a tool that contacts the ******. This method will damage the sealing edge and will result in leakage and/or plug blowout.

The flanged (trailing) edge must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.



Engine Block Heater


1. Open radiator draincock (8115) and remove coolant from radiator (8005) and engine (6007).
2. Remove block heater (6A051). Note the position that the element is pointed (eg. 12:00, 6:00, etc.)
3. Clean the inside diameter of the core plug hole machined surface and hole entrance. Remove any burrs at the hole entrance to avoid damage to the O-ring.
4. Cover rubber O-ring and core opening with a liberal coating of chassis grease (C1AZ-19590-B, C, D, E or equivalent.
5. Insert block heater in core plug hole in the same position as it was removed.
6. Tighten ***** in normal clockwise direction. Torque to 1.6-1.8 N-m (14-16 lb-in).
7. Refill cooling system.

I haven't found any Ford documentation, but a '97 GM turbo diesel uses a 22-Ohm (650W, 5.5A@120VAC) heater, and a '92 non-turbo F350 uses a 16-Ohm (900W, 7.5A@120VAC) heater.

Smallblock V8s take 1.5" freeze plugs & heaters; 4.9L takes 1.625".
Replacement Ford cords: FLEETGUARD 251919, KATS 28216, ZeroStart 3600008



by Steve

 

[Tiha]

if you are running synthetic oil and everything is in decent shape like battery and starter. You won't need a block heater.

Especially if you drive it everyday.

I have live in the upper midwest my whole life and never had to plug in a gas engine.

 

[Hiddenmidgard]

if you are running synthetic oil and everything is in decent shape like battery and starter. You won't need a block heater.

Especially if you drive it everyday.

I have live in the upper midwest my whole life and never had to plug in a gas engine.

Everything has been replaced (10w30 sae, battery, starter, solenoid, cables, ignition, alternator is ~2 yr old). I park outside so I just was curious if this small block needs the attention or not.

 

[miesk5]

Yo HIDDEN,
What is your typical lowest winter time temperature?
When I was in Naval Station Great Lakes for a year, lows in JAN 29 1966 were down to -7 in Daytime and -1 at night.

What is your coolant mixture?

Here is Ford's coolant info;
"The approved coolant for Ford vehicles is a 50/50 mixture of water and Ford Premium Cooling System Fluid E2FZ-19549-AA or B or equivalent meeting specification ESE-M97B44-A, plus 1.5 quarts of Heavy-Duty Cooling System Additive FW-15 or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESN-M99B169-A.
This coolant mixture:

• Provides antifreeze protection down to -28.8 to -37.2 degrees Celsius (-20 to -35 degrees Fahrenheit).
• Provides protection against boil over to a system temperature of 120 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit). Too high a concentration of antifreeze, while allowable in extremely cold climates, may cause overheating in hot weather as antifreeze cannot absorb and reject heat as well as water.
• Provides corrosion protection, as coolant meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A and ESE-M97B43 contains additives to fight scale and corrosion.
• Provides proper water pump lubrication. Too low a concentration of antifreeze may cause water pump failure.

The acceptable concentration ranges for all climates are: (minimum) 45 percent antifreeze to 55 percent water and (maximum) 60 percent antifreeze to 40 percent water.

Use only a hand-held refractometer, Rotunda Battery/Antifreeze Tester 021-00046 or equivalent to verify coolant concentration.

Ordinary tap water may be used for a brief time in an emergency unless the water is known to be exceptionally hard or high in alkali content. As soon as possible, the system should be drained and flushed and the proper mixture of water and Ford Premium Cooling System Fluid E2FZ-19549-AA or -B or equivalent meeting specification ESE-M97B44-A, plus 1.5 quarts of Heavy-Duty Cooling System Additive FW-15 or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESN-M99B169-A.

CAUTION: Failure to use Heavy-Duty Cooling System Additive FW-15 or an equivalent meeting Ford specification ESN-M99B169-A could result in premature engine breakdown.


Unsatisfactory Coolant Materials and Supplementary Coolant Additives

The following are NOT authorized for use in Ford vehicles:

• Recycled coolant. Tests run by Ford Motor Company indicate that recycled coolant does not meet required specifications ESE-M97B44-A and ESE-M97B43-A.
• Alcohol-type antifreeze. Alcohol-type antifreeze does not provide adequate water pump lubrication and, having a lower boiling point than water, boils off reducing antifreeze protection.
• Alkali or calcium chloride solutions or water containing a high alkali content. These solutions will cause serious engine and cooling system damage, especially in systems containing aluminum radiators, cylinder heads, or other components.
• Propylene glycol-type coolant. Propylene glycol-type coolants provide less heat transfer and some may not provide enough corrosion protection.

Coolant Disposal

When disposing of used coolant, always do so in accordance with all applicable federal, state, and local laws and regulations. Note that antifreeze is toxic to humans and animals."

 

[Tiha]

Usually a block heater would go into one of the freeze plugs if you wanted to add one.

I have no idea which freeze plug would be best or easiest to replace. Just have to crawl under there and look for a place where you want to try it.

They have other options though. They have one where you cut and splice it into the lower radiator hose. That should be an easy install for something quick and easy.
Ran one on an old Jeep, it worked well. We plowed snow with it. Having heat to keep the windows clear right off the bat was a huge advantage. We were often done pushing before the enging warmed up.

If you get into a bind for some reason, they make magnetic ones that stick to the oil pan and you can heat the oil that way.

 

[dawggg (steve)]

Yo HIDDEN,
Installation; "... In some climates, and often for diesels in any climate, some freeze plugs are replaced by a block heater; most often with a common plug for 110VAC household power routed to the grille so that it can be plugged into an extension cord overnight..."
Freeze Plugs & Block Heater

Core Plugs

Removal and Installation

To remove a large core plug, drill a 12.70mm (1/2-inch) hole in the center of the plug and remove with an Impact Slide Hammer T59L-100-B or T50T-100-A or pry it out with a large drift punch. On a small core plug, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole in the center of the plug and pry it out with a small pin punch. Clean and inspect the plug bore.

Prior to installing a core plug, the plug bore should be inspected for any damage that would interfere with the proper sealing of the plug. If the bore is damaged, it will be necessary to true the surface by boring for the next specified oversize plug.

Oversize (OS) plugs are identified by the OS stamped in the flat located on the cup side of the plug.

Coat the plug and/or bore lightly with an oil-resistant (oil galley) Sealing Compound E0AZ-19554-B or EZAZ-19544-B or equivalent and install it following the procedure for cup-type or expansion type below:

Cup-Type

Cup-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge outward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the outer edge of the ******. The ****** on cup-type plugs flares outward with the largest diameter of the outer (sealing) edge.

Expansion-Type

Expansion-type core plugs are installed with the ****** edge inward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the base of the ****** with the ****** flaring inward.

CAUTION: It is imperative to push or drive the plug into the machined bore using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven using a tool that contacts the crowned portion of the plug. This method will expand the plug prior to installation and may damage the plug and/or plug bore.

When installed, the trailing (maximum) diameter must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.

CAUTION: It is imperative to pull the plug into the machined bore by using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven into the bore using a tool that contacts the ******. This method will damage the sealing edge and will result in leakage and/or plug blowout.

The flanged (trailing) edge must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.



Engine Block Heater
View attachment 29071

1. Open radiator draincock (8115) and remove coolant from radiator (8005) and engine (6007).
2. Remove block heater (6A051). Note the position that the element is pointed (eg. 12:00, 6:00, etc.)
3. Clean the inside diameter of the core plug hole machined surface and hole entrance. Remove any burrs at the hole entrance to avoid damage to the O-ring.
4. Cover rubber O-ring and core opening with a liberal coating of chassis grease (C1AZ-19590-B, C, D, E or equivalent.
5. Insert block heater in core plug hole in the same position as it was removed.
6. Tighten ***** in normal clockwise direction. Torque to 1.6-1.8 N-m (14-16 lb-in).
7. Refill cooling system.

I haven't found any Ford documentation, but a '97 GM turbo diesel uses a 22-Ohm (650W, 5.5A@120VAC) heater, and a '92 non-turbo F350 uses a 16-Ohm (900W, 7.5A@120VAC) heater.

Smallblock V8s take 1.5" freeze plugs & heaters; 4.9L takes 1.625".
Replacement Ford cords: FLEETGUARD 251919, KATS 28216, ZeroStart 3600008


View attachment 29070
by Steve

miesk5, whenever you respond to a question it boggles my mind... kudos on your knowledge of our beloved beaters...

 

[Red Green Jr]

I will second what Tiha says, I'm way up north and go weeks at a time below zero with stints down in the -40's. A good battery and starter is all you need to get your engine started, but will concede that if you want to just jump in and go, a block heater can help. Otherwise you should start up and let your engine run for a few minutes before taking off.

 

[johnnyreb]

The plug in heaters work great in any cold weather. The best thing about them is . I had mine in between the heater hose. Simple to install and you can mount it to where you might have to work on later. After you install it. Leave the lever control to DEFROST AND THE SWITCHS TO HIGH. Now leave them on and when you go in for the day or night. Plug it in. When you get ready to leave hours later. Your doors will not be frozen tight dureing cold days or night. When you get in the vehicle. It will be real warm and nice. Plus you won,t have any ice or snow on your window and I have always used pure anti freeze and never had any troubles.

 

[johnnyreb]

The plug in heaters work great in any cold weather. The best thing about them is . I had mine in between the heater hose. Simple to install and you can mount it to where you might have to work on later. After you install it. Leave the lever control to DEFROST AND THE SWITCHS TO HIGH. Now leave them on and when you go in for the day or night. Plug it in. When you get ready to leave hours later. Your doors will not be frozen tight dureing cold days or night. When you get in the vehicle. It will be real warm and nice. Plus you won,t have any ice or snow on your window and I have always used pure anti freeze and never had any trouble . Another thing is to add a auxilary battery. In cold weather it drains the juice out of one. I like the added battery because IF YOU HAVE ONE and it goes bad. You might have a long walk out of the boonies.

 

[johnnyreb]

Plus the water heater in the winter is like a air conditioner---you will really enjoy it.

 

[johnnyreb]

Plus the water heater in the winter is like a air conditioner---you will really enjoy it.

I have the IN-LINE HEATER. They are alot easier to install. The block heaters are sometimes a pain to get a freeze plug out. To install a in block freeze plug.

 

[chrlsful]

we use the oil dip stick kind,
the diesel getsa pan magnet,
and in the old daze the wood stove gota a cleaning & coals ina pan got shoved under, a permanent long handle attached to the slid-under pan.
Today the manufacturer hasa presale one fitted on all cold climate sales, no?

 

[johnnyreb]

we use the oil dip stick kind,
the diesel getsa pan magnet,
and in the old daze the wood stove gota a cleaning & coals ina pan got shoved under, a permanent long handle attached to the slid-under pan.
Today the manufacturer hasa presale one fitted on all cold climate sales, no?

Crish, does the dipstick type heater work good?

 

[johnnyreb]

we use the oil dip stick kind,
the diesel getsa pan magnet,
and in the old daze the wood stove gota a cleaning & coals ina pan got shoved under, a permanent long handle attached to the slid-under pan.
Today the manufacturer hasa presale one fitted on all cold climate sales, no?

I understand about the coal shoved under the oil pan. I never used it,but can see it would put hear under the pan. I did make a fire in front of my truck one time and it heated the motor up and done a good job. My truck cranked over faster and started up.

 

[johnnyreb]

I understand about the coal shoved under the oil pan. I never used it,but can see it would put heat under the pan. I did make a fire in front of my truck one time and it heated the motor up and done a good job. My truck cranked over faster and started up.

Chris is talking about only the heat from wood or coal --only the heat. l. NO FLAMES because of the fuel lines and vapor fumes. Thanks Chris for the memorys.

 

[Tbeck]

Hello all,
I have a dry desert rig 87 302, that i feel I need to have a block heater put in it being where I am in MT. I don't know where would be the best location to place it. Tried using the interwebs to find something but no luck or I'm searching for wrong words. I have picked up what looks like a freeze plug v lock style one. Just unsure which plug would be best placement. Thanks in advance.

Mostly all good answers here. As a lifelong citizen of the frozen tundra known as “West Dakota” (ok, extreme NE Montana) I’m a big fan of block heaters. Installation is a pain, location kinda depends upon make (Katts, etc). 2 hrs will do the trick on most all automotive applications. I think it would help your 1987 302. Newer vehicles aren’t so touchy for cold start in my experience. I traded a 2012 Ford 5.0 last winter that had never been plugged in. I’m not sure if my wife’s’15 Expedition has one…..? My ‘16 250 does, haven’t tried it yet. A good battery and synthetic oil might be enough for your needs. At any rate, best luck!

 

[miesk5]

Mostly all good answers here. As a lifelong citizen of the frozen tundra known as “West Dakota” (ok, extreme NE Montana) I’m a big fan of block heaters. Installation is a pain, location kinda depends upon make (Katts, etc). 2 hrs will do the trick on most all automotive applications. I think it would help your 1987 302. Newer vehicles aren’t so touchy for cold start in my experience. I traded a 2012 Ford 5.0 last winter that had never been plugged in. I’m not sure if my wife’s’15 Expedition has one…..? My ‘16 250 does, haven’t tried it yet. A good battery and synthetic oil might be enough for your needs. At any rate, best luck!

Yo T,
Welcome to our Bronco site!
What other Ford Truck, vans, etc do you have?

 

[Tbeck]

1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
1994.5 F250 Supercab 4x4 Powerstroke
2016 F250 Crewcab 4x4 6.2L
1978 F250 4x4 project, (dad bought new)
1981 LN8000 twin ***** truck, 3208 Cat

 

[Hiddenmidgard]

Thank you all for the replies and amazing advice. Temps here have hit -22+ last couple weeks and truck did start just had to let her run for a while. However now I'm fairly sure I got a blown gasket this morning. From what I could see is that is towards the rear of the block. Unknown if it is cracked but I am now working on figuring all that out. Then prolly putting in that warmer coil. Happy new year!