Vaccum solenoid questions

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Hiddenmidgard

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Hello everyone. I have an 87 bricknose with a 302 auto. My question is for the tad and tab system. The solenoid that feeds the purge or w/e it does with the vacuum hose systems. I am pondering an idea while trying to replace with an A and a B or two Bs.

Part numbers are ET7E 9H465 AA and ET7E 9H465 BA

Both are missing the square caps for me and the springs inside the housing. Found them just dangling with broken lines. Which I'm now having read that other thread I found here for tracing and replacing the tubing with new stuff, guess the 33 yr old plastic said I'm tired.
I'm trying to see if I can order ET7Z 9H465 B (x2) and just use them I'm place of an A one. I haven't been able find anyone with the A in stock. See picture for what I am Screenshot_20211203-133143_DuckDuckGo.jpgtrying to track down. I went to a local yard but no luck, even my parts guy said they can't get them. Thanks in advance.
Thought worth mentioning, I am trying to avoid buying anymore off ebay. Since several parts I tried to order were broken or damaged with glued parts.
 
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miesk5

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Yo Hiddenmidgard,
Welcome!
fflcfreak wrote "On my 94, the connectors are different between the two. So getting two of the same wouldn't work. I would assume an 89 would be the same, but I'm not positive."

Call Tomcoto to verify/obtain a price check. They are a very good Bronco emissions parts and info source:
"TO PLACE AN ORDER, CALL:
314-646-5353 OR 800-325-9972

See their site @ Untitled Document

Here's the 1987 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/1987-Ford-Bronco.pdf

1987 Owner's Manual, partial (Towing it & 4 speed manual transmission shift patterns & operation) by Ford via member Mikey350 @ 1996 Ford Bronco 87 Bronco Owners Manual pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf found by BroncMom!
Al
 
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Hiddenmidgard

Hiddenmidgard

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Yo Hiddenmidgard,
Welcome!
fflcfreak wrote "On my 94, the connectors are different between the two. So getting two of the same wouldn't work. I would assume an 89 would be the same, but I'm not positive."

Call Tomcoto to verify/obtain a price check. They are a very good Bronco emissions parts and info source:
"TO PLACE AN ORDER, CALL:
314-646-5353 OR 800-325-9972

See their site @ Untitled Document
Ah bummers, that bit from fflcfreak, that is what I was afraid of ha! Okay will reach out to them and see what they have to say for it.

Thanks for the additional help and info!

Another thing I wondered,
Would there be anyway to delete all the emissions hoopla for these?
 

miesk5

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Ah bummers, that bit from fflcfreak, that is what I was afraid of ha! Okay will reach out to them and see what they have to say for it.

Thanks for the additional help and info!

Another thing I wondered,
Would there be anyway to delete all the emissions hoopla for these?
Yo,
These parts are commonly used & available via google searches;
Stainless Steel Thermactor Smog Plugs SEAL the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube. Comes with 2 stainless plugs and Loctite. Hex head makes installation easy when the engine is still in the vehicle.
Some use 5/8" by 11 by 1" SS bolts while others have welded the holes closed.
View attachment 26513
by Ryan M., however his business is closed.

Thermactor Smog Plugs, EGR Eliminator Overview, EGR Block Off Plate, EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD Actuator Eliminator Resistor & Parts List pics; need one 75 ohm 3 watt Resistor for each item removed, EVR, CANP, TAB &oids
by Ryan M. But company is out of business.
@ RJM Injection Tech ? Welcome
"...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged.
The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway. If you have the DPFE system there is no way to bypass it without the computer knowing and throwing a code so you may as well keep it intact. you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.
Source: by Conanski
Here is Ryan's narrative for posterity;
"Disconnect EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP), and inspect the harness connector. Make
sure it’s free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.
Plug the Eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) harness connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
This product only eliminates the EGR electrically. Please take the time to remove and cap off vacuum lines. If you are leaving the EGR valve on the intake confirm that it is fully closed. A leaky EGR will cause more engine problems. It’s best to remove the EGR spacer, or put a block off plate over the opening.
When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.
The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired
result. However if you get the following codes:
31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts
34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts
35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts
Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.
NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission applicable vehicle."
Ryan wrote here once in response to one of the Codes
Ryan also sold;
Actuator Eliminator Resistor $2.00 each
75 ohm 3watt Resistors can also be used to eliminate the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids.

A neat mod by jrichker; "...Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps..."
read more and see many pics.
at https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/are-the-tad-tab-vacuum-solenoids-needed.791134/
...


Eliminator Overview, EGR Block Off Plate, EVR, CANP, TAD & TAD Actuator Eliminator Resistor & Parts List & pics; need one 75 ohm 3watt Resistor for each item removed, EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids

Some pics of each, but company is out of business

RJM Injection Tech http://web.archive.org/web/20120820...injectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminatorsmp/
***

Wiring resistors in for TAB/TAD Solenoids; "Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog # 64-3053

Two flat pin connectors.

One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor. (diff Ford/..)

One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.

Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.

Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.

Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.

Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.

Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n132/Mumblerone/IMG_1366Medium.jpg

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket..."

read more and see many pics.

at http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_146245982083811&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=inuesiya01000bgv000MA1nekjd9x&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone%2F170822-wiring-resistors-tab-tad-how.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stangnet.com%2Fmustang-forums%2F790379-finally-learned-how-read-codes.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone%2F417409-egr-smog-deletes.html&title=wiring%20resistors%20in%20for%20TAB%2FTAD%2C%20how%20to%3F%20-%20Ford%20Bronco%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stangnet.com%2Fmustang-foru...ead-codes.html

Block-Off Plate pic in an 89 by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_146245986167812&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=inuepu4g01000bgv000MAemp1417l&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone%2F417409-egr-smog-deletes.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.supermotors.net%2Fclubs%2Fsuperford%2Fvehicles%2Fregistry%2Fmedia%2F439467&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2Fsearch.php%3Fsearchid%3D12800994%26pp%3D20%26page%3D4&title=EGR%20and%20Smog%20Deletes%20-%20Ford%20Bronco%20Forum&txt=1989%20Ford%20Bronco%20Misc%205%20picture%20%7C%20SuperMotors.netEGR Location & Block-Off Plate pic in an 89 @ https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/439467/fullsize/dsc02766.jpg by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG)

EGR Eliminator Installation Manual by Ryan M. @ gmail
thttp://web.archive.org/web/20110704111604/http://rjminjectiontech.com/EGR_eliminator.pdf

Smog Pump Belt Removal, Belt in an 88 5.0 (CLOSEST I COULD FIND TO YOUR 87 5.0); "...I tried an 89.5" first, 2 inches shorter than stock and it was too long. So I went back hoping for something about 88 or so and all they had was a 87.5. It was a bit short and a royal pita to put on but it is running fine. A lil tight but it should hold till I get an 88.2 which they can order..."
 
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Hiddenmidgard

Hiddenmidgard

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Holy schnitzel! That is a project for summer I'm thinking. But thank you again for the immense help! Going to try those ideas I think after tomco returns call for those parts.
 
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Hiddenmidgard

Hiddenmidgard

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Does anyone know this part number? I broke the hose when i slipped and caught myself on the thing while running lines for vacuum. Or can I just buy a hose length and clamp it on there? I have been on Google now for a couple days and I can't seem to locate it just by the number listed in image.20211209_120012.jpg
 

miesk5

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Does anyone know this part number? I broke the hose when i slipped and caught myself on the thing while running lines for vacuum. Or can I just buy a hose length and clamp it on there? I have been on Google now for a couple days and I can't seem to locate it just by the number listed in image.View attachment 29017
Yo H,
Try NAPA,O'REILLY ETC

"You want the hose to go straight in on the PCV so it doesn't "tilt" the valve in the valve cover slot otherwise you just get blow by up the hose.....very messy....
Bad PCV can cause poor engine performance overall, rough running etc." by JKossarides RIP J...
 
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Hiddenmidgard

Hiddenmidgard

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Got I figured out using a air brake line and a pcv elbow and did a hot water bend on the reinforce line. It's not the best but around here can't find that assembly. MacGyver'd it well enough. Found the other solenoids and will work that once mail get here. Thanks for the help!
 

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