Top Removel 1991 Ford Bronco

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Wolf3591963

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If I remove the top on my 91 Bronco, when I put it back  on will the top seal tightly again? My wife doesn't want me to remove my top because shes worried it won't seal properly when I put it back on.Nikki's Grad 012.JPG

 

miesk5

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yo Wolf,

The top is easily Removed & Installed; inspect weather stripping when removing; if ok, No Leaks!

Removal w/Tool List in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

http://www.supermoto...stry/4970/19630

After removing the hardtop several times, I noticed I would loose the speed clips while driving around with the top removed. So after loosing several of them I decided to change out the bolts that hold the hardtop on. Instead of trying to find undamaged bolts at the junkyard, or trying to find them at the stealership, I upgraded them. I went to Lowe's and found new speed clips, 5/16 18. Here is a pic, I purchased 9 of them.

bolts002.jpg   Report this image

Here is a pic of the old and new hardware.

bolts003.jpg   Report this image

To make the speed clips fit properly, the original holes for the speed clips need to be enlarged to 7/16. This is easily done with a unibit.

bolts006.jpg   Report this image

Nine out of the thirteen bolts use speed clips, so they can all be done with the method above. The other four bolts have the thread in the body. So for these four bolts I used a #F drill bit and a 5/16 tap to redo the threads. Here is the drill bit and tap.

bolts004.jpg   Report this image

Here is one of the four spots I tapped.

bolts005.jpg   Report this image

Here is an original metric bolt and speed nut.

bolts007.jpg   Report this image

Here is the new bolt and washer.

bolts008.jpg   Report this image

Here they are together.

bolts009.jpg   Report this image

Overall cost was around $25 with uncle sams share. I paid $3 for 13 5/16 bolts and 13 washers at a local hardware store. I purchased the speed clips from Lowe's, they were $1.07 each x 9. I also had to purchase the drill bit and tap, that was $8 at Sears.

I haven't put the top back on yet, I'll be doing that probably on Saturday or Sunday, but I don't foresee any problems with the new bolts.
See  pics @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4685/53143
 

by Switch

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Parts Break-Out Diagrams, pic, Weather Seal, Glass Run Info & Ford pn; "...Some aftermarket versions are simply a continuous strip - they lack the formed corner pieces at each end. 78-91 Broncos use 4 short bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x40mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x70mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 2 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", but the rearmost bolts use the opposite clip. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. 92-96 Broncos use 5 short bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x30mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x60mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 4 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", except the rearmost bolts. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. There are also nut plates in 4 of the camper shell bolt holes: the 2 rearmost, and the 2 outboard at the top of the cab. They're just a heavy plate (1/4"?) with a threaded hole...."
Source: by Steve83  http://www.supermoto...stry/2742/12740

================

If you have a garage or strong car port

Lift, one man pics in a 91
Source: by California Monkey (Mama Cass, Richard)

http://www.supermoto...try/16287/64653

Weatherstrip Adhesive E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A is a quick-drying, strong adhesive designed to hold weatherstripping to doors, bodies, cowl ventilators and the surrounding metal. Windows and windshields that are set in rubber can be effectively sealed against leakage by flowing adhesive into affected areas.

Clean all grease, dirt and old sealer from surfaces, and wash the surfaces thoroughly with a cloth moistened with a suitable commercial cleaner. For best results, apply a medium coat of adhesive to both surfaces, allow it to dry until tacky and then press both surfaces firmly together.

Adhesive for Camper Top Front & Side Weatherstrips; "...They don't attach to the metal - they're glued to the fiberglass, with a few screws at the rear corners. The cream color is the paint off the fiberglass. 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive is probably the best for this application, but you MUST follow the directions to the letter - otherwise, it won't hold ..."
Source: by Steve

=============

 
Silicone Lubricant

Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A is to be used on the door and window weatherstrips. It is recommended that silicone lubricant be applied to the weatherstrips at every lubrication period. Its use makes the doors easier to close, avoids weatherstrip squeaks, retards weatherstrip wear due to chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip, and helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and rubber weatherstrip.

Enjoy the sunny days!

 
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Big_Rob

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Do it!

Just reinstall ALL screws...and unless your weatherstrip is cracked and dryed out, you'll be fine... LMC has them for 20 bucks.

imag13961547696066.jpg

 
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Seabronc

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The seals should be flexible, if not buy some new ones from the Graveyard http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-36015-front-top-weatherstrip-80-96-oem.html

Also run a thin filmof silicone grease along the surface of the seal which will help it stay in better condition and seal easier.  When you put the top back on do a hose test to see if you have any leaks.  Snug the front bolts first.  Don't snug the side bolts untill the front is snugged up.

:)>-

 
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