Thanks for the input. I labeled the pushrods, so they should be fine. (I do need to clean them, though.) I do have questions about the gaskets. On which ones should I apply sealant? The machine shop told me to skip the sealant on the head gaskets. But, what about the gaskets on the manifolds? I have no idea.
Coolant & Vacuum Leaks, 5.0L, 5.0L HO & 5.8L; "...Intake manifold coolant and vacuum leaks have been found to be quite common on Ford 5.0L, 5.0L HO (High Output) and 5.8L engines. For this engine, following the proper intake manifold torque values and torque sequence is very critical. Installation of the aluminum intake manifold should proceed as follows: Clean all gasket surfaces of debris and oil residue. Apply a 1/8 bead of silicone sealer in the 4 corners where the cylinder heads meet the cylinder block (Figure 1). Install the intake manifold side and end gaskets and apply a 1/16 bead of silicone sealer in the 4 joints formed by the gaskets. Mount the manifold and torque the bolts in sequence to 15-20 lbs.ft (Figure 2). Torque the bolts in sequence to 23-25 lbs.ft. After the engine has reached operating temperature, retorque the intake manifold bolts to 23-25 lbs.ft..."
1988-93 Cougar, Grand Marquis, Sable, Topaz, Town Car
1991-93 Capri, Tracer
1993 Mark VIII
1988-89 Scorpio, XR4TI
1988-90 Bronco II
1988-93 Aerostar, Bronco, Econoline, F Super Duty, F-150-350 Series, Ranger
ISSUE Some engine assemblies replaced under warranty have been found to be internally contaminated. This condition may be traceable to a previous repair involving removal of the valve cover(s), intake manifold and cylinder head(s). Scuffed pistons/bores, excessively worn crankshaft/camshaft bearings, low or no oil pressure, engine knocking and excessive oil consumption can result from improper engine gasket surface preparation.
ACTION Refer to the following TSB article for gasket sealing surface preparation procedures recommended by Ford Motor Company.
Identify the composition of the component part before proceeding with a cleaning operation. Determine whether the part is cast iron, steel, aluminum or plastic. This can usually be distinguished by the inherent hardness and/or weight of the part.
If the part is iron or steel, use a scraper with a high carbon blade, for best results. The key is to use a high carbon steel blade that is "razor-sharp." With a sharp blade, very little effort is required to peel off the old gasket.
Lay the blade flat on the surface and push slowly and evenly. Don't allow the blade corners to tip in and mar the surface.
Rounding off the blade corners with a small grinder will prevent scratching and gouging of the gasket surface.
USE EXTREME CARE TO KEEP HANDS AND FINGERS CLEAR OF THE BLADE.
If the part is aluminum or plastic, a different scraper must be used. Carbon steel or any other steel edge will cut, mar, gouge or burr aluminum and plastic. A teflon or hard wooden scraper is recommended. First use a commercially-available spray solvent, allowing ample time for the solvent to act on the gasket. A suitable solvent should evaporate and leave no residue behind. Otherwise, the residue can cause a new leak to form.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE ANY GASKET SURFACES TO BE CLEANED AND PREPARED FOR SEALING BY USING A HAND GRINDER, ROTARY WIRE BRUSH, SANDING DISC OR PAD OR ANY OTHER POWER TOOL USING AN ABRASIVE SURFACE AS A CUTTING TOOL. THESE TOOLS HAVE BEEN FOUND TO PROMOTE ENTRY OF SANDING GRIT AND GASKET MATERIAL INTO ENGINE CAVITIES. THESE TOOLS CAN DAMAGE THE SURFACE FINISH AND POSSIBLY DISTORT THE ORIGINAL FLATNESS OF THE COMPONENT, LEADING TO FURTHER VACUUM, COMPRESSION AND/OR FLUID LEAKS.
To prevent gasket material or other foreign matter from entering internal engine compartments, place CLEAN shop towels over exposed cavities. Use extreme care when removing the towels; remove them SLOWLY. Cloth towels can drop as much foreign material into the engine as they originally collected during cleaning operations.
Another alternative is to use a portable shop vacuum. Moving a vacuum nozzle closely along with the scraper edge will help direct loosened gasket particles into the vacuum and away from the engine.
The same care used in preparing the gasket surface should be practiced when assembling component parts such as the intake manifold and cylinder heads. Both are critical leak areas requiring extra care during assembly. Some things to consider are:
Not all engines use the same sealants in the same places. Some parts use no sealant at all.
Consult the service manual first. Don't assume that a gasket needs sealant. Some gaskets are designed with a pre-cast bead. Adding sealant to this design type will create a leak by shimming the two mating surfaces.
Although some aftermarket gaskets look the same as the ones removed, use only Ford original equipment parts to ensure that the customer receives consistent quality and value.
Avoid gasket locating products such as "tack'ems". These chemicals may leave residues in the engine that are incompatible with the oil, and may even cause damage to the catalytic converter.
Practice CLEANLINESS when reinstalling components and gaskets.
A small leak path can become a larger one as fluid erodes a gasket.
Keep dirt, lint and unwanted chemicals off new gaskets.
DO NOT assume that once dirt enters the engine that the oil filter will cleanse the oil to its original state and protect the engine from harmful abrasives. Particles such as silica (sand) are small enough to pass through even the best oil filters. The grinding effect of sand and dirt in oil on internal bearing or wear surfaces is comparable to the effect of valve compound for lapping-in valves.
Torque sequence of components such as intake manifold and cylinder heads is extremely critical for proper sealing.
Not only does sequencing make a more effective seal, it also protects the part from warpage or distortions caused by improper tightening. Aluminum is particularly susceptible to warpage from uneven tightening of fasteners.
In some instances, fasteners used on aluminum components must be loosened in sequence. Consult the service Manual in EVERY instance for correct torque and/or de-torque values and sequences.
After a repair job, it is a good practice to use a black light leak test to confirm that the repair was successful. For example, it would be easy to assume that the rear main crankshaft seal was leaking when in fact the intake manifold gasket allowed oil to run down the back of the engine. Consider all the facts which allow fluid to travel outside the engine (fan air blast, road air blast, gravity, or escaping/pressurized fluid spray.
To sum-up, a successful leak repair depends on:
Accurate diagnosis of the leak using Ford-recommended test equipment and procedures.
Surface preparation and gasket installation using the proper cleaning tools
Exercising care and cleanliness during assembly/disassembly of components
Torque Specs By Chilton via my local library access;
VALIDATE ALL by using other ref sources such as;
Repair Guides & Wiring Diagrams (click vehicle, year range) & go to Chassis Electrical & scroll for Wiring Diagrams...(under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
check Library; mine also has All Data on-line for free but in-library use only; All Data uses the Ford docs
Auto Repair Reference Center Repair Manual, Mostly Chilton; many local library's offer free online access for their members; just log-in w/your library Card # and password; incl. all Broncos, & many MAKES! 1951 to current; some years (85-Current, I believe) include: FULL Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls, Labor Hours per repair (plug in appl info); some Wiring Diagrams, Vacuum Diagrams (in DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS Section), Specifications (torques, etc.) & Maintenance Intervals
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf
Intake Manifold to Cylider Head (see steps), Exhaust Manifold, Exhaust Pipe to Exhaust Manifold, Front Cover, Flywheel to Crankshaft, Pump to Block (4.9), Upper Intake to Lower Intake Manifold, Main Bearing Cap Bolts (5.0 & 5.8 is 12-18 ft lbs.)
Exhaust System (Inlet Pipe to Manifold, Hanger Bracket and Insulator to Frame, etc.), Oil Cooler to Block, Oil Pan to Block, Oil Pan Drain Plug, Rocker Arm Bolts, Rocker Arm Stud to Head, Rocker Covers, Side cover (6.9)