Ticking under hood

BOB MARLIN

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1990 5.0
Key on engine off.
I have a constant rapid "ticking" sound coming from something. Hard to track down. Seems like its somewhere slightly to the drivers side of the engine towards the rear. This is also while having a constantly running fuel pump and a no start without starting fluid problem. Going to pull the computer this weekend to check the caps, but wondering if the ticking noise has something to do with the above problems.
 

Tiha

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I have heard of this happening before. Does it stop after like 30 seconds? Or keep going?

Can't currently remember what the cause was. Hoping you will job my memory.
 

BOB MARLIN

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I don't notice it all the time but once it starts it keeps going. Is it just me or do these Bronco's have a lot of electrical gremlins ?.
 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Bob,
Take a P and grab a cup of joe.

Ticking could be an arcing spark plug wire esp if wire routing is incorrect; "firing order for 1994-up 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles, the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire.
To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap."
Listen @ Carbon canister's Purge Solenoid
You must be registered for see images attach

Pic by SeattleFSB
Any chance it's a lifter? Use a mechanic's stethoscope or garden hose section to listen at valve cover, alternator, etc.
Or fan hitting shroud or rad hose?
egr tube could be rusted out
exhaust leak, esp at manifolds ?
Ratcheting or Buzzing Noise in Front Axle in Two-Wheel Drive, Shortly After Four-Wheel Drive Usage
Right or left side hublock. REPLACE hublocks as necessary
Timing is off.
Low grade gzs



Ford has a Noise, Vibration and Harshness Section (04) in it's 96 Bronco Workshop Manual, partial @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
It is nearly same for your 90.
The Road Test Form shown is what a Ford mechanic would perform.
There are some noise conditions that can sound just like axle noise and have to be considered while performing road test diagnosis. The five most common sources of noise are the transmission, exhaust system, tires, roof racks and trim mouldings.
Some excerpts regarding just noises.
"Make sure none of these non-axle noise conditions are the cause of the noise concern before proceeding with an axle teardown and diagnosis. The five most common sources of noise are the transmission, exhaust system, tires, roof racks and trim mouldings.
If noise is produced as part of a vibration condition, correcting the vibration will eliminate the noise. If the noise is related to a specific component or system, refer to the appropriate service manual section for further diagnosis.
A gear-driven unit will produce a certain amount of noise. Some noise is acceptable and may be audible at certain speeds or under various driving conditions. The slight noise is in no way detrimental and must be considered normal.
Make notes throughout diagnostic routine. It will help cover all bases when starting to add up clues. Use a road test form that includes space for comments. Write down even the smallest bit of information, as it may turn out to be most important.
Road test the vehicle, and define the condition by reproducing it several times during the road test.
Perform the road test quick checks as soon as the condition is reproduced. This will identify the appropriate diagnostic procedure. Run through the quick checks more than once to make sure they are getting a usable result. Remember, the road test quick checks may not tell where the concern is, but they will tell where it is not.
Make a visual inspection as part of the preliminary diagnostic routine, writing down anything that does not look right. Note tire pressures, leaking fluids, loose nuts and/or bolts, or bright spots where components may be rubbing against each other. Check cargo area for unusual loads.
Some hints on performing a road test for the diagnosis of NVH complaints follow.
Neutral Engine Run-Up Test (NERU)..."
read more

Next is Vehicle Preparation:
Excerpts:
"...Check and set tire pressure.
Remove any externally mounted accessories such as luggage racks, or magnetic base or the antenna which may cause wind noise that interferes with NVH diagnosis.
Use a tachometer
Turn the air conditioning system off and on to isolate air conditioning system impact on the noise. Accelerate gently through this speed to a few mph above it and then coast back down a few mph below it and note if the concern changes character when driving through or coasting down.
Try "floating" the driveline by backing off slightly on the throttle at the problem speed. The idea is to unload the axle gears and the universal joints as much as possible. This test is difficult to master and sometimes it helps to test on a slight downgrade so that gravity is counteracting the aerodynamic drag.

Hoist Test:
After a road test, but only after a road test, it is sometimes useful to do a similar test on a hoist. Use an axle hoist, not a frame hoist. An axle hoist will not change the driveline angles. If only a frame hoist is available, axle stands should be used.
Elevate the rear wheels slightly. Check to make sure that both are turning, and run the engine up with the vehicle in gear.
Explore the speed range of interest using the drive/cruise/coast/float tests as described under Vehicle Preparation.
A coast down in neutral should also be conducted. If the vehicle is free of vibration when operating at a steady indicated speed and behaves very differently in drive and coast, an axle concern is likely.
A test on the hoist may produce different vibrations and noises than a road test because of the effect of the hoist on the rear axle. It is not unusual to find vibrations on the hoist that were not found in the road test and in most instances they may be ignored. Similarly, some problems may be apparent only on smooth asphalt roads. If the condition that was found on the road can be duplicated on the hoist, a great deal of time can be saved by doing experiments on the hoist."

Pinpoint Tests:
"These pinpoint tests are designed to take the technician through a step-by-step diagnosis procedure to determine the cause of a condition. It may not always be necessary to follow a chart to its conclusion. Perform only the steps necessary to correct the condition. Then check the operation of the system to be sure the condition has been corrected."
EXCERPTS;
"DRIVE BELT NOISE
Check for "chirps" or squeal in drive belt by spraying a small amount of water on the grooved side of the drive belt (use a spray bottle or equivalent).
Does the noise change?"
PINPOINT TEST K: NON-AXLE NOISE
EXCERPTS;
"K1 INSPECT VEHICLE TRIM
Inspect the following for cause of noise:
grille whistle
trim mouldings
roof luggage rack (if equipped)
Check condition and tension of serpentine belt. Check other belts, if applicable.
Inspect A/C system components for noise when the engine is running and A/C system is alternately engaged and disengaged.
K5 EXHAUST SYSTEM
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02.
Check for broken or loose clamps or brackets.

Now for the nitty-gritty!
Symptom Charts
ROAD TEST DIAGNOSIS
Condition Possible Source Action
Noise Is the Same on Drive or Coast:
Road noise. Vehicle OK.
Tire noise. INSPECT/REPLACE tires. REFER to Section 04-04.
Front wheel bearing noise. INSPECT/REPLACE front wheel bearings. REFER to appropriate section in Group 04 (2-wheel drive) or Group 05 (4-wheel drive).
Differential bearings. INSPECT differential bearings. REFER to appropriate section in Group 05.

READ MORE such as;
ACCESSORY DRIVE DIAGNOSIS:
Excerpts;
" Excessive Noise
Seized accessory.
PERFORM Pinpoint Test D.
Belt Squeal
Loose belt.
PERFORM Pinpoint Test D.
Noisy Accessory
Worn accessory bearings.
Loose bolts/brackets.
PERFORM Pinpoint Test D"

Drive Noise, Coast Noise
Wheel bearings. INSPECT front/rear wheel bearings. REFER to appropriate section in Group 04 for front wheel bearings on 4x2 vehicles or Group 05 for front and rear wheel bearings on 4x4 vehicles.
Drive Noise, Coast Noise
Wheel bearings.
INSPECT front/rear wheel bearings. REFER to appropriate section in Group 04 for front wheel bearings on 4x2 vehicles or Group 05 for front and rear wheel bearings on 4x4 vehicles.

Ring and pinion gear.
PERFORM Pinpoint Test G. INSPECT ring and pinion gear. REFER to appropriate section in Group 05.
Ring and pinion gear. PERFORM Pinpoint Test G. INSPECT ring and pinion gear. REFER to appropriate section in Group 05.

Components Tests:
"Noise or Vibration, 4-Wheel Drive Vehicles
Verify the condition by road testing.
For 4-wheel drive vehicles, verify concern with known quality conventional tires. If symptom still exists, perform the following:
Shift transfer case into two-wheel drive.
Unlock front hub locks (or remove front driveshaft (4602)).
If condition disappears, concern is in front axle or driveshaft.
If condition persists, remove rear driveshaft and road test using front drive.
If condition disappears, concern is in rear driveline or axle.
If condition persists, refer to Symptom Charts in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section or other sources."

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);


BTW, Vibrate Software, Inc. http://vibratesoftware.com sells a $$$ app to dealerships and shops.
 

johnnyreb

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1990 5.0
Key on engine off.
I have a constant rapid "ticking" sound coming from something. Hard to track down. Seems like its somewhere slightly to the drivers side of the engine towards the rear. This is also while having a constantly running fuel pump and a no start without starting fluid problem. Going to pull the computer this weekend to check the caps, but wondering if the ticking noise has something to do with the above problems.
Get a piece of hose about 3 feet long (have the motor turned off. Put one end to your ear and the other end toward the noise. It should lead you in the area and find it. Good luck
 

johnnyreb

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Get a piece of hose about 3 feet long (have the motor turned off. Put one end to your ear and the other end toward the noise. It should lead you in the area and find it. Good luck
I,d get the hose and try it. Sounds like it is one of the relays . I had a friend who had this ticking noise in his car. He just bought it and we were on this old dirt road and he was telling me about it. All of a sudden-----ring .A clock alarm went off. Someone had lost the clock and it had slipped up under his seat. We laughed. Little noises sometimes are had to find. I noticed everytime I would cross this railroad track I,d hear it under my bronco. I even had a tire rod replaced because it had a tiny bit of slack.Soon as I left the garage and crossed the track--same thing. I turned around and went back. We put it back on the rack and I don,t remeber what it was a hose or something --would hit under it and make a rattle noise. The tried rod alone then was about $50 plus labor. All because a hose would hit once in awhile or cross that track. It might be something little VIBRATING against something.
 

Tiha

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You said constantly running fuel pump, but it won't start without starting fluid?

Interesting,

So first thought was, fuel pump relay? Stuck on? Clicking?

Otherwise you are on the right track with the ECM
 

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