starting problem

hambone69

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Hey all...I have a 95 bronco 5.0/302 and recently started having troubles starting. I noticed sometimes when I turn the key before cranking engine I dont hear that sound like something electronic is turning on and then turn key to crank it doesnt start. But when I turn key and hear that sound it does start. Could someone tell me what that sound is and could that be my problem? Since I had trouble starting motor 2 weeks ago I changed; new battery, new plugs, new plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor.

thanks

 

zintrex

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Hey all...I have a 95 bronco 5.0/302 and recently started having troubles starting. I noticed sometimes when I turn the key before cranking engine I dont hear that sound like something electronic is turning on and then turn key to crank it doesnt start. But when I turn key and hear that sound it does start. Could someone tell me what that sound is and could that be my problem? Since I had trouble starting motor 2 weeks ago I changed; new battery, new plugs, new plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor.

thanks

what ya are describing there is taht sometimes when you try to start the electronics in the car "wont turn on"

so when you hear that sound, you hear a combination of fuel pump/s relays and all other electrical shit turning on and ur engine can start. wo that sound you dont ahve any electrics tohelp ur engine run and it wont start.

The main suspect there will be the electrical ignition switch, if that turns out out be fine look at any main relays that migth be going bad.

 

Elmo

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First off check the codes but it sounds like the most probable suspect is your EEC relay or the Fuel Pump relay. In the left side of the engine bay close to the brake master cylinder you should find the relays. Someone please correct my location if Im in error. Check the wires to the relays for cracked, cut, missing insulation. The insulation gets brittle and can crack open allowing the wires to rub together causing electrical shorts or open circuits. Repair any dammaged wiring if any found. Unplug the relays and look into the connector it may/should have a greesy substance in there but it should NOT have any moisture or green corrosion- clean with electrical contact cleaner apply Di-electric greese ( a little goes a long way but dont bee too stingy with it). The relays are only like 10 bucks each so buy a couple and swap out the others or somewhere on here there is a write-up on how to check the relays using a volt meter.

 

Krafty

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sounds like text book fuel pump failure. aside from checking the relays also track down your fuel pump connections and do a voltage check and look for loose or corroded connections on the pump. if all else checks out see if you can duplicate the situation where it doesn't start and check for power at the pump. if the power is there but the pump is not turning on you either have a bad connection on the pump or an intermittent pump failure which will lead to permanent failure.

remember when checking for power at the pump the fuel relay has to be on for the pump to get power.

to directly test the pump run a hot wire from a constant 2 volt source directly to the positive side of the pump.

 

hambone69

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thx for the replies you guys are awesome. I'm going to check/replace the relays in the morning and if that doesnt work I'm goning to check the fuel pump. Thanks again!

 

miesk5

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yo,

As Elmo suggested ck that FP & EEC Relay

in da Power Distribution Box (PDB);

here is the PDB Diagram in a 96, sim to a 95 by Roadkill!

the PDB is Located under the hood on the drivers side fenderwell, behind the stock air cleaner location.

See HIf your PDB does not have a diagram inside lid,

Horn Relay #3; you can swap it temp w/da FP relay to verify if it is good..."

You must be registered for see images attach


Relay #1 can be swapped w/ Horn relay as well.

--

If your PDB is different then see this diagram by Rob for a 93;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/290854/fullsize/engine-compartment-fuse-panel.jpg

or
You must be registered for see images attach


Here is a quick check for no-startcondition. Turn the ignition key to da ON position to see if the “Check Engine Light" (CEL) turns on.

If the CEL does NOT Light Up & it has in past before this NO START condition began, check the EEC relay.

--------

No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS.

If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.

You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground; check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender).

If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is...";

MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms;

Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a reg. small jumper wire

 

hambone69

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quick update...when I first tried to start it today I got nothing but a click (like when alternator is bad) but I only got 1 click. And when I released the key from start position I noticed the digital miles read out reset like when you first turn key on. I thought that was odd. Anyway I bought new relays for fuel pump and pcm and still the same problem--1 click when I try to start. Now I'm going to go and check fuel pump and everything miesk5 mentioned on his post. Thanks for the input!

 

hambone69

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wow I have been over this truck up and down and everything checks out ok. The only things I havent checked yet is the ignition switch and inertia.

 

Krafty

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is it still doing the click problem when you try to start? or has that gone away. the click then "reset" of the electrical components from moving the key from start to ON usually means a voltage drop in the starting circuit aka a bad connection from battery to solenoid. ( even if this isn't your problem this can prevent similar issues in the future) take the battery connections off. get find or buy a copper fitting wire brush (3/4 inch) and wire brush the **** out of the inside of your battery connectors and battery posts, then make sure everything from the battery to where the starter bolts to the block is tight.

by not taking care of this it can cause alot of electrical gremlins.

hopefully this helps. also double check all your ground wires from the frame to the block and vice versa.

 

hambone69

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the click problem went away, and it is starting fine now. I happened to go over my bronco manual that came with the vehicle and read a paragraph that said after you disconnect battery or change fuses you have to "reset" the electronics in the vehicle to recognize everything. So I did what it said...applied the park brake, turned off radio, air, etc.. and let vehicle run for 2 minutes. After I did that I have not had a problem since. I can't believe that this is the fix. At least for now it is working.

 

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