Starter issue

[bronco2al]

I have an '87 Bronco II Fuel Injected 2.9L Automatic 4x4. I purchased the vehicle under the impression it needed a new starter. BUT...I've been through 3 remans from different parts stores and currently it has a brand new one on it. On the bench the old one checked out too. Flexplate is fine. I have replaced all wires. It has a new solenoid. New battery and reads good. when I first bought it, it was screeching. but would eventually start. Now the bendix only whines. Infact thats all it did on every starter I put on it. I'm losing my mind. Everything has been replaced and triple checked. I can't find any solutions in other forums. I keep seeing "Problem solved" I do what they did and nothing. Shims. new bolts. New wiring. New battery, etc. is there more than one starter for these? Are there common issues with flexplates? Although I'm getting good voltage and everythings been replaced and triple checked.. if I hook a jumper box to it I can at least get the bendix to engage. But just screeches on the flexplate.

 

[Skitter302]

How do the teeth on the flywheel look?

 

[bronco2al]

How do the teeth on the flywheel look?

flexplate* ... it’s an automatic. And as stated it looks fine. Running out of ideas

 

[miesk5]

Yo bronco2al,
Welcome!
I assume bendix drive is not sliding forward and engaging the flywheel?

"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."by powermastermotorsports



Inspect battery cable terminalsfor corrosion, damage or looseness.
- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.;
- and positive cable from battery to relay to starter.
- check starter relay body to inner fender for tightness to a clean, non-rusted/grime -free surface.
- check battery for full charge; Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V.


by El Kabong
"Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong

 

[bronco2al]

Yo bronco2al,
Welcome!
I assume bendix drive is not sliding forward and engaging the flywheel?

"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."by powermastermotorsports



Inspect battery cable terminalsfor corrosion, damage or looseness.
- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.;
- and positive cable from battery to relay to starter.
- check starter relay body to inner fender for tightness to a clean, non-rusted/grime -free surface.
- check battery for full charge; Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V.


by El Kabong
"Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else" El Kabong

Your reply will be very useful for people who come across this thread with similar issues. Gives them something to diagnose.

 

[johnnyreb]

I have an '87 Bronco II Fuel Injected 2.9L Automatic 4x4. I purchased the vehicle under the impression it needed a new starter. BUT...I've been through 3 remans from different parts stores and currently it has a brand new one on it. On the bench the old one checked out too. Flexplate is fine. I have replaced all wires. It has a new solenoid. New battery and reads good. when I first bought it, it was screeching. but would eventually start. Now the bendix only whines. Infact thats all it did on every starter I put on it. I'm losing my mind. Everything has been replaced and triple checked. I can't find any solutions in other forums. I keep seeing "Problem solved" I do what they did and nothing. Shims. new bolts. New wiring. New battery, etc. is there more than one starter for these? Are there common issues with flexplates? Although I'm getting good voltage and everythings been replaced and triple checked.. if I hook a jumper box to it I can at least get the bendix to engage. But just screeches on the flexplate.

I noticed you never mentioned . The area where the starter mounts onto the bell houseing. Take the stater off and clean BOTH areas really good. SCRAPE ITON THE BELL HOUSEING REALL CLEAN. Then put the starter back on. These aluminium houseing corrode and build up easly. ESPECIALLY if the vehicle has set for a little while. The starter needs a good ground too in that area.

 

[MaineBroncoBeast]

I noticed you never mentioned . The area where the starter mounts onto the bell houseing. Take the stater off and clean BOTH areas really good. SCRAPE ITON THE BELL HOUSEING REALL CLEAN. Then put the starter back on. These aluminium houseing corrode and build up easly. ESPECIALLY if the vehicle has set for a little while. The starter needs a good ground too in that area.

I've been experiencing the same problems. I've just gone over my 84' Bronco XLT once again after 3 years and started having issues with the starter. I went through 2 before deciding to change the flexplate because of grinding and noise. The flexplate was damaged enough to cause problems but the starter index plate had bigger problems! It was snapped at the top of the plate between the bolt holes and it may have overlapped and when I placed the starter in the index hole, it was noticeably out of round as were the starter bolt holes in the plate. I'm sure that is my main problem. I've ordered a used one in very good condition from eBay for next week.

But there is another question I wonder about... this is a 351W High Output 5.8L C6 so I have a 164 tooth flexplate. Is there a flexplate shim or spacer that is required? I see them available but my engine didn't have one on it.

Thank you

 

[johnnyreb]

I've been experiencing the same problems. I've just gone over my 84' Bronco XLT once again after 3 years and started having issues with the starter. I went through 2 before deciding to change the flexplate because of grinding and noise. The flexplate was damaged enough to cause problems but the starter index plate had bigger problems! It was snapped at the top of the plate between the bolt holes and it may have overlapped and when I placed the starter in the index hole, it was noticeably out of round as were the starter bolt holes in the plate. I'm sure that is my main problem. I've ordered a used one in very good condition from eBay for next week.

But there is another question I wonder about... this is a 351W High Output 5.8L C6 so I have a 164 tooth flexplate. Is there a flexplate shim or spacer that is required? I see them available but my engine didn't have one on it.

Thank you

Well MAYBE that is what caused your problem. Have you noticed the flywheel and starter? Does it look like it has been chewed on? If so. I,d say someone left the shims off. I myself have never seen any shims on a Ford and I,ve worked on quite a few. Also maybe they gave you the wrong starter at the parts store.

 

[johnnyreb]

Most Fords I worked on were 289--292--390 and 428.

 

[MaineBroncoBeast]

Okay, here is my update on this issue. FIXED!

Here is a photo of the starter in the old index plate on my engine. It's easy to see all the movement around the starter.

I purchased a used starter index plate (bellhousing separator plate Ford D8DE-6A373-CA) in excellent condition for $50 off of ebay. The starter fits very tight and snaps into the new index hole of the plate. Of course I had to drop the transmission to remove and install the new starter index plate as well as a new 164 tooth flexplate for C6 automatic transmission. I also installed a flexplate reinforcing ring to spread out the load of the 6 installation bolts. I did this because I actually had a previous flexplate on this bronco sheer all around the 6 bolts.

I replaced the battery, starter, and ground cables also for good measure.
I also purchased a 10 tooth starter from Napa, special order because I have the 351W High Output engine and I have read that it is higher torque and will crank the engine quicker.

When I started it for the first time, the starter made noise it wasn't supposed too! I took the starter out immediately, didn't try it a second time. I thought the bendex gear looked odd so I measured the diameter with calipers for the 10 tooth starter. It was 27mm. I measured the 9 tooth starter I still had which was good and the bendex was 25mm.

I installed the 9 tooth starter (no ford shim used) and the truck started right up... turns over very easily and fast. Napa took the 10 tooth starter back no problems, I played them the video I took on the start-up and caliper measurements.

It's been a month and it's a non issue now.... very happy to have solved this for my 84 Bronco XLT 351 '**' 5.8L 4V