Researching for first Bronco purchase

[sandbarmark]

Hey all,

I've always liked the Bronco (mostly the 70s era but those are $$$). Been looking around on Craigslist for one and I am going to look at a few over the next couple of weeks. Knowing that forum folk know the most when it comes to individual models and what to look for, I figured I would come here and ask around for some suggestions, tips, and help.

I'm pretty sure that I want a 92-96 Bronco. Not looking to go offroading (or at least nothing major). Just want something I can throw the dogs in the back of to take to the beach, head out camping, and tow my motorcycle to the track every second weekend or so but still be able to carry all my stuff.

With that in mind, what common things should I look out for? Are there any engine/transmission combinations that are better than others? Are there particular years in the 92-96 range that are better than others? I read that 94+ Broncos have the shoulder belt tensioners for the rear and the top can't 'legally' come off. Does it still come off though?

Sorry for the long winded post. Just want to make sure I know what I am getting into, especially when I want to make sure it is reliable!

This is what I am finding locally on CL...

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2476650042.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2488199583.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2487602626.html <-- called the owner of this one. he said that the transmission spends a lot of time between gear shifts when driving.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2456318066.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2484968093.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2481663369.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/2480639106.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2480208339.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2454109267.html

Any input, words of wisdom, or questions to ask about a Bronco from the owner would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Rons beast]

The top will come off on the 94-96 Broncs. You need a special torqs tool with a hollow tip, but that is the only real obstical.

I can't say there is any specific feature to look for or avoid. The most important factor I feel is the condition of the truck. Look for one that someone has maintained well. A good maintained Bronc can be reliable for a couple hundred thousand miles and more. ( The Beast has 167K and is a daily driver)

Good Luck with your search

 

[Krafty]

.

 

[Krafty]

it all depends on what you want, a inline 6 or 300ci is a stout little motor that puts out about the same torque specs as the 302 v8 but gets better gas mileage when driven right and will last longer than the energizer bunny, but the v8s have the upgradeability that the 300 I6 doesnt.

a manual means you wont have a transmission to rebuild, and new clutches only cost about $200, but the auto if taken care of will last a long time as well.

pros and cons to any decision, good luck

ps the 300 I6 will haul a car trailer and car easily, so you dont need the 5.8 unless your gonna haul 20 tonnes of equipment,

 

[miesk5]

yo Mark,

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule; see a Link at end of reply

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).

Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight

- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing

- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...

check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- ball joints.. costly if not DIY

- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY

- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)

or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.

Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.

Car Fax is ok, but they did NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our past vehicles; & our ex-92 Van had less mileage listed than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com

- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace

- body mounts and fram rust

For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy; For pre 96 do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at

a Self Test by BroncoJoe19 do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks. Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.

Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel.. The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.

In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. Our module blew the micropprcessors two years ago and two yard modules were bad..No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD EVTM, Service manual CD from E bay or Steve83 (use the search here for him and use the e mail function to contact him); it is the BEST under $15.00 or so thAng you can get to service and repair your Bronco!

The 95 Owner's Manual is avail on e bay but the 96 version is almost 100% equal

Get it for free from FORD; from same addy as above; myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

or

Owners Guide (Manual) for any Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles, get a free download for 96 to current year; register to view w/VIN; includes Scheduled Maintenance Guide

Source: by Ford via fleet.ford.com @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

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Camper Top: 92-96 Broncos use 5 short bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x30mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x60mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 4 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", except the rearmost bolts. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. There are also nut plates in 4 of the camper shell bolt holes: the 2 rearmost, and the 2 outboard at the top of the cab. They're just a heavy plate (1/4"?) with a threaded hole.

Removal w/Tool List, & Security Torx® bolt replacement with Metric sized bolts

(5 8x70mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts & 12 8x45mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts) 92 - 96

Source: by Froggmann (Ken P) at http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/Topremoval.htm

Lift, one man in a 90

Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_top_lift.htm

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We here can help you on most if not all Smog issues.

GL!

 

[Lester]

During my journey, here were some of the things I looked for.

Rust behind the drivers/passenger seat floorboard (under the carpet). I was told this is from water seeping into stress fractures in the roof?

Rusty undercarriage, and by rusty I mean almost totally eroded away. If the previous owner liked running the "dunes of the cape" but wasn't smart enough to hose down afterwards, you may have a disaster or two waiting to happen with the frame. (I saw one once that was so bad it looked like the frame had been raised from a shipwreck.)

I think there's also some legalities to take the lid off of a 96 model... but only if they cop that pulls you over is really smart (or an @ss. )

 

[mudBUFF]

During my journey, here were some of the things I looked for.

Rust behind the drivers/passenger seat floorboard (under the carpet). I was told this is from water seeping into stress fractures in the roof?

Rusty undercarriage, and by rusty I mean almost totally eroded away. If the previous owner liked running the "dunes of the cape" but wasn't smart enough to hose down afterwards, you may have a disaster or two waiting to happen with the frame. (I saw one once that was so bad it looked like the frame had been raised from a shipwreck.)

I think there's also some legalities to take the lid off of a 96 model... but only if they cop that pulls you over is really smart (or an @ss. )

I think the leaglities are related to the seat belts for the rear seat. I believe the shoulder belt is attached to the top so if you take off the top then you have dissabled a safety system. I dont know why they didnt say that if you take the rear seat out then you're okay but I dont think they did.