Rear end troubles

[90windsor]

ive never had a rear end go out on me before, but i have a bad feeling about this

first of all,

it has all brand new u-joints

the driveshaft (cv joint) was also rebuilt.

brand new trans mount i just put on 5 minutes ago

no broken motor mounts and rear end is tight on springs.

i took the rear driveshaft off and drove it in FWD

i checked ALL ujoints and they are in tip top shape

what happens is going from drive to reverse or vice versa it makes a big shifting noise under the truck and i see the transfer case handle buckle hard.

the problem is the rear end takes about almost a full rotation of the driveshaft to start turning the wheels at all.

also when i am slowing down, right when its about to come to a dead stop, i feel it shift also. then when i take off it shifts again

i know it sounds like the trans mount but it is not. it had a one-month old one on it and i just replaced it minutes ago and it didnt do anything either.

i feel like the rear end is interally really loose like its jumping around in there.

when the rear driveshaft was out i watched the front driveshaft and when putting into gear it only took 1/4 turn or less to engage up there. and it was MUCH MUCH smoother going into gear

what should i do? should i take it to a shop and have them test drive it and if so, rebuild it? would it be worth just fixing the rear to stock gears or get both rebuilt with 4.56 since i have 35's?

or is this not even my problem?

any ideas are aprreciated -im stumped-

thanks alot

 

[90windsor]

im pretty sure its not inside the transfer case because it is VERY smooth without the rear driveshaft in.

and i did check that rear nut. its not loose and it wont budge

idk what to do. should i just drive it till it breaks or take it in right away.

i really dont know much about difs.

im a pretty good all-around mechanic except trans and difs i have no clue

im going to school to get my ASE but i really havent learned anything about this yet

thanks for your help so far

 

[90windsor]

You should check the t-case rear output exactly the way you checked the rear pinion nut, and look thru that album.

that nut is tight also.i drove it for a while yesterday and it runs fine at highway speeds just cruising. its just in stop-go you can hear and feel the looseness in there

 

[90windsor]

i found a junkyard axle but i dont know what rear gears i have. the rear end is stock. there is no tag on the outside. its gone.

the one at the junkyard is 3.55 gears.

is there any way of knowing the axle code through the vin or door sticker?

my door sticker is

WB TYPE BODY TRANS AXLE

105 U514 NJ E H9

vin: 1FMEU15H4LLA80822

the guy at the ford dealer said 90% of them were 3.55 and some 3.73

my was a plow truck with a tow package, so im not sure

thanks for your help

 

[oktogo]

mine does the same thing if it dont bother you just drive it till it fall apart i dont care im getting new axils soon

 

[broncotough]

i had a similiar problem with a 94 f150 work truck 2 wheel drive. its like a clunk upon engagment fwd and revers never fixed it. the truck is still in service. its been like that for 2yrs or more. i wanna say the pinion gear has slack when i contacts the ring. everything felt good on this truck mounts, joints, nut on the pinion gear all were fine. even thou the truck is in service still i dont feel this is normal.

 

[madmax]

Mine is doing the same thing, I'm swapping it out to a 9 inch 4.10 anyway. When I do, I'll pull the cover off the 8.8 and see what's going on in there.

 

[90windsor]

mine does the same thing if it dont bother you just drive it till it fall apart i dont care im getting new axils soon

thats what im gonna do most likely :lol:

i had a similiar problem with a 94 f150 work truck 2 wheel drive. its like a clunk upon engagment fwd and revers never fixed it. the truck is still in service. its been like that for 2yrs or more. i wanna say the pinion gear has slack when i contacts the ring. everything felt good on this truck mounts, joints, nut on the pinion gear all were fine. even thou the truck is in service still i dont feel this is normal.

yeah thats exactly how it is

 

[90windsor]

i was wondering if you guys could give me any estimated prices/opinions.

my rear seemed wierd so i took it in and it needs a pinion bearing, the spider gears are shot and the clutch plates are worn in my stock 8.8 with 3.55

its est. $800 to fix it to stock with new spiders, clutches, and bearing.

is it worth that or should i just go and get 4.56 in both axles

how much would it be for the following (estimated):

- 4.56 in front and rear w/o lockers (stock trac-loc)

- 4.56 in front and rear w/ locker in just rear

- 4.56 in front and rear w/ lockers in front and rear

thanks for your help

 

[Yardape]

I had a quote from a local driveline performace shop for 5000.00 on my 89 Bronco For 4.88 gears and detroit lockers front and rear. That is Canadian prices so for you It would be a bit cheaper. I would say count on 1500 an axle to be safe.

 

[Justshootme84]

Ring gear & pinion sets run about $140/ea, plus another $100 for the master install kit (bearings, races, shims, etc). A new carrier for the front is $60 on ebay. The Detroit locker will run you about $550. And the Dana Trak-Lok is about $220. Jumble that all up, and I would recommend at least the trak-Lok for the rear, and eother open front or go all out and get a full spool for $90. $800 fo the rear axle is about right with parts ($400 + $400). these are prices I get locally, so they might be higher online or from a shop in other areas.

 

[90windsor]

Ring gear & pinion sets run about $140/ea, plus another $100 for the master install kit (bearings, races, shims, etc). A new carrier for the front is $60 on ebay. The Detroit locker will run you about $550. And the Dana Trak-Lok is about $220. Jumble that all up, and I would recommend at least the trak-Lok for the rear, and eother open front or go all out and get a full spool for $90. $800 fo the rear axle is about right with parts ($400 + $400). these are prices I get locally, so they might be higher online or from a shop in other areas.

so how much would you say for a full spool in the front and a traklock rear (all 4.56) ?

 

[Justshootme84]

A full spool for the D44 TTB front cost me $90, which is really only $30 more than the new carrier. When I re-geared the 84 to 4.565's, it ran $650 total for the new gears, kits, spool, and a mini-spool for the Ford 9" rear. That was parts only, no labor, since I did it myself. i would estimate your bill will be close to $1500 for both axles from a shop. The Ford 8.8" takes a bit more work to setup the gears. the front axle is just a pain to get the chunk out and put back in.

I went with Genuine gear parts from the local 4WPH, except for the spool from ebay, It will be harder on your front axleshafts...

 

[90windsor]

A full spool for the D44 TTB front cost me $90, which is really only $30 more than the new carrier. When I re-geared the 84 to 4.565's, it ran $650 total for the new gears, kits, spool, and a mini-spool for the Ford 9" rear. That was parts only, no labor, since I did it myself. i would estimate your bill will be close to $1500 for both axles from a shop. The Ford 8.8" takes a bit more work to setup the gears. the front axle is just a pain to get the chunk out and put back in.
I went with Genuine gear parts from the local 4WPH, except for the spool from ebay, It will be harder on your front axleshafts...

ok thanks alot. the shop is gonna call me tomarrow with a estimate. ill let you guys know what they say.

does any one else have any guesses? im guessing jsm84 is pretty close... i hope

 

[90windsor]

wait.... just what exactly is a spool? is that just another word for limited slip/ traclock?

so that $1500 price would be with:

labor

front 4.56 with track lock

rear 4.56 with track lock? or locker?

sorry i misunderstood what you said

thanks again guys

 

[Yardape]

My post about the 1500, thats what I estimate a shop to charge from my experiences and research. Thats 1500 per axle 4.56 gears with lockers front and rear. From there you factor in where are you located, a busy 4x4 shop may get better deals, a pop and son mechanic may charge less to get business. Really depends on whats around you. But no matter where you are i'm pretty confident 1500 is a close estimate. Sometimes you can get a deal if you bring in the diffs and not the truck too. Another option is keep your eyes open for a smashed up Bronco or F150 that may have gears and tires on it for cheap.

 

[90windsor]

My post about the 1500, thats what I estimate a shop to charge from my experiences and research. Thats 1500 per axle 4.56 gears with lockers front and rear. From there you factor in where are you located, a busy 4x4 shop may get better deals, a pop and son mechanic may charge less to get business. Really depends on whats around you. But no matter where you are i'm pretty confident 1500 is a close estimate. Sometimes you can get a deal if you bring in the diffs and not the truck too. Another option is keep your eyes open for a smashed up Bronco or F150 that may have gears and tires on it for cheap.

yardape- sorry that question was toward jsm84's estimate of the price.

sorry for the confusion

 

[Justshootme84]

My estimate of $1500 is for BOTH axles, parts and labor inclusive. IF a shop is charging you $1500 PER axle, go find another one. that's roughly $700 for the parts and $800 for labor, or $400 labor PER axle. The $700 parts estimate includes one Trak-Lok.

As Steve83 pointed out, the full spool will effectively lock both sides together 100% of the time, and there are pros & cons for the front TTB. You get the benefit of power to both wheels all the time, unless you unlock one manual hub to allow for turns in 4WD. You can still turn with the spool engaged, but not as tight. You'll feel one tire slip when on losse dirt or sand. iwouldn't try it on snow or ice, though. With both axles engaged, you run a higher risk of breaking an axleshaft with a sudden traction change, like spinning in mud then grabbing dry ground. An open diff with no traction-aides is easiest onthe axleshafts, but gives you the least abilityt in the rocks orwhen one wheel lifts off the ground and the other side just sits there.

The Trak-Lok is not as durable as a spool, in my experience. It's OK for the 8.8" rear for mild offroad use.

 

[Yardape]

Im really curious to hear what the actual estimate is. Like I said the quote up here for my truck was 5000 for both axles, if you guys are getting them done for 1500 for both, holy crap its time for a road trip. !500 bux I would get every vehicle I own done.