Rear antilock and brake lights on, grinding noise?

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90windsor

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Okay, so i have a number of things that could have lead to this, bc i just installed a bunch of new things so i dont know which it could be.

1. I Put headers on, and a brand new straight pipe custom exhaust (put the headers on in my shop, had a local place make the pipes)

2. when i was putting the headers on i cracked the brakeline that goes from the master cyl to the acuator that controls the rear bias, and replaced that line after they were in.

After it was all done, it would make this wierd quick grinding noise at random times, and sitting in reverse with my foot on the brake. Im pretty sure it is one of the exhuast pipes rubbing on the frame (bc one is very close) until now the BRAKE light and the REAR ANTILOCK light are on. the brakes work fine, no leaks, master cyl is fine. after putting it from reverse to drive a few times it goes off, but as soon as you start going it comes back on. Is the grinding my rear end going out? it is lifted with 35's on the stock 8.8. is the abs sensor bad and grinding in the rear end? or is it just my exhaust making noise on the frame?

sometimes it will do the grinding noise at a dead stop sitting at a stop light and i tap the gas and it stops. is is NOT coming from the engine at all. it is most definatly coming from the rear

thanks for any help

 

Bronc76

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90- since it started after you installed the exhaust, is it possible to remove pipes to see if the grinding sound is still there?

 

Broncobill78

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Im pretty sure it is one of the exhuast pipes rubbing on the frame (bc one is very close)
sometimes it will do the grinding noise at a dead stop sitting at a stop light and i tap the gas and it stops. is is NOT coming from the engine at all. it is most definatly coming from the rear

Sure *sounds* like an exhaust problem. Did the shop just bend & weld the pipes or did they have the truck there & install them ? If they did the actual installation as well as the bending then it's a no-brainer, bring it back and have them fix the problem. If they just bent up the pipes & handed them to you then it's a little more difficult. Can't really blame them for the problem if they didn't have the truck there to ck the fit (although they should have said something to you about the fit maybe being a problem if they didn't have the truck right there to ck the pipes on). It's a good way to save cash until you run into a problem like this. If the pipe is too close to the frame then you've got two options, try to pull it away with a hanger or have a new tube bent for that side. You might also try pulling that one off and having them tweak the bends a little to move it away from the frame.

 
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miesk5

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yo!

I agree w/Bill; maybe a pal can standby with a length of garden hose to help narrow the location down?

and for the ABS Light; do this Test;

RABS Self Test; except 93-96; "...The 90 service manual gives a routine to pull RABS codes. When the light comes on, don't turn the truck off before reading the codes. Put it in park, chock both front & rear of the wheels, note whether the red brake light is lit also, then momentarily ground the test connector. The test connector comes out of a large loom under the dash, coming through the firewall, near the parking brake. On mine there are 2 similar connectors in that area, the correct one has only 1 black wire with an orange tracer running to it, & was hidden on top of the loom. The correct one is hanging down on the bottom right of the pic below. After you've grounded & ungrounded the wire, the yellow abs light starts to flash. Count the flashes. It said to not count the 1st series, because it may start in the middle. The last flash of the series is a long flash. Then it repeats over & over, until you turn the key off. Count all of the short flashes & the long one together (So 4 short & 1 long is code #5). If I remember right, it should be a number between 2 & 15 or so. If you follow Steve83's sig link, & then go to his Brakes & Hubs album, he has the code definitions for RABS.."

Source: by ElKabong

See his pic for the Selt Test Connector & Location

RABS DTCs by Steve83

 
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90windsor

90windsor

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thanks for your help guys. i fixed the brake problem (almost). the master cylinder was real low bc one of the compression fitting was loose. i tightened it, filled the master, and bled the breaks. the light went off but the antilock light is still on.

Broncobill- it was a kit i bought that didnt fit right, they modified it, and installed it. i called and they said its free to bring it back and fix any rattles or rubbing, just drive it for a few weeks and let it settle. do you think thas the problem?

 

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