Oil question...

Bronco217

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I know everyone has an opinion on this, but I have a 1995 5.8 Eddie Bauer with 140k miles on it I got from AZ. The previous owner used 20/30 or 20/40 oil due to it not getting very cold there and I live in Arkansas where we have hot, humid summers and we're heading out of winter. I'm getting close to needing an oil change so I am looking for what oil is best to use in it (oil type, weight, etc.) It is not my daily driver, just used as a weekend ride. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
 

Tiha

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pretty much any of the newer synthetics or semi synthetics will out perform the heavy weights he was using, they will lube better and cool better and keep the engine cleaner.
I am sure there is a "best" but something readily available at your favorite supplier will be fine.
 

Bronco217

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5/20, 5/30, 10/30? I've seen several different opinions but nothing definitive.
 

Tiha

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I buy a drum at a time. Been running 5w-30 synthetic in all my gas engines for a couple years now. Seems to hold up well.
 

chrlsful

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are U some one who duz seasonal (hot'n cold Arkansas) changes? who reads an owner's manual? Even w/-0- mi use there are time sensitive (simple brake down w/air exposure) guidlines for changes...

Glad to see you out there gathering info.
 

Skitter302

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I'm a 10w-30 Full Synth guy when it comes to my Pushrod Ford engines. Engine never seems to have any issues.
 

jimko

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I run Pennzoil 5-30 high mileage full synthetic in my 92 Bronco with 5.0 and 260k miles on the original engine as I was told by seller. The engine runs fine during all types of driving after I put in a new distributor due to old one not advancing and causing pinging. The oil pressure needle sits on the O on normal when the engine is warm. Since that isn't giving actual pressure reading I'm wondering if that is ok since that would put it on the lower side of the normal range. I was also wondering on whether a worn engine would do better with a higher weight rating, or is it more about the additives in a high mileage synthetic oil?
 

Tiha

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I was also wondering on whether a worn engine would do better with a higher weight rating, or is it more about the additives in a high mileage synthetic oil?

It depends on the problem you are trying to hide, but in my experience changing oils do nothing. Having kids that have bought cars with no oil pressure, running them out of oil, or burning oil there is really only one solution and that is fix the problem.
Put bearings in or rings in. Whatever it needs. We have tried to get around doing that probably most ways imaginable and it just doesn't work.

Thicker oils, maybe they coat better, stay in place better, maybe they don't get sucked past the rings as easily, but they also don't cool as well, or flow into places as well to protect the other parts that are still working correctly.

Maybe the high mile oils have some additives that help seals in some way, but in the end it is just a band aide not fixing anything just hiding it.

These are not old school V8 carbureted engines with big heavy cast iron heads and copper bearings. These are light cheap engines, with plastic guides and aluminum bearings.

Granted your 92 is a mix and will survive on just about any oil, your oil pressure gauge is not really a gauge. it is more of a switch, put a gauge in if you really want to know, but the only way to increase pressure is new rod and main bearings.
 

jimko

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Good info, thanks! I was considering having the motor pulled and gone through but I'll try the oil pressure gauge first as I had considered that option myself. Also maybe have compression checked. My gut says it will get to 300k as is.
 

Bronco217

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Thanks for all the replies. One more question...Is there an oil filter recommendation? I've read to stay away from Fram and alot recommend Motorcraft or Mobil 1. Thoughts? I'm very much a novice here and appreciate the advice.
 

Tiha

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Filters depend a lot on your oil change schedule.

If you are changing it frequently, like on schedule or sooner then honestly the cheapest filter out there will do.
in fleet vehicles we run the cheapest filters and the cheapest oil, of course we change it on time but these cars run hundreds of thousands of miles without oil related problems.
Oil filters don't filter out fuel or antifreeze and those do as much damage or more than the dirt that the filter catches.

If you are running extended change intervals than you should be spending more on a filter.

Not sure what is the best right now. Seems like Fram is the best for a while, then wix is, then mobile 1 filters. I am sure they are all decent.
 

griff

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Didn't know old Bronc's could use synthetics. I've always used 10W 30/40 depending on the season. At 155K on my '92 5.8 she is still kicking ass and showing zero signs of letting up. Last major challenge was that damn tree that fell on her 4 years ago!
 

chrlsful

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temp'n pressure - mechanical gaguages are good 2 have. 3K - 7kmi changes w/filter (most made by same 2, 3 co, just different paint) and oe's recomended weight/SAFI rating help. One said 'pull the motor" - after a proper diagnosis, decisions can B made. Some do not require engine out, just head / intake pull.
 

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