NEWBIE Purchasing a 95 Bronco sport advice

[tommy854runner]

Hey Everybody,

I just purchased a pretty darn clean/straight 1995 Ford Bronco XLT Sport with the 351 and E4OD and 152k miles(engine supposedly reaplaced at 110k).  

Very stock just some dry rotting 33" tires.  I bought it pretty cheap because the transmission is not downshifting when prompted sometimes and shuddering in OD when cold.  A local trans shop said it needed rebuilt.  I think I'll try and flush it first but probably wasting money.  Luckily I'm a svc advisor at a GMC dealer and I think I've sweet talked my trans guy into cracking it open and taking a look(you'd be amazed at how dealership techs are nervous about working on other makes).  

Other than that the rear window binds when going down and only goes about 3/4 of the way down so I need to research that.  It also kind of has a slow spin slow start like the battery is weak but the battery is brand new.  The solenoid on the pass side firewall looks really new so I'm thinking someone tried that first, hopefully just a bad starter.  

Has zero rust on body, just some surface rust on the frame but nothing bad at all.  The driver side leather seat cover is torn(looking at new covers on Ebay) but otherwise the interior is immaculate.  

I've been a Toyota Landcruiser/4runner/Pickup guy all my life but have always wanted a K5 or a FSB.  I'm super excited about it but what should I be on the lookout for?  Any suggestions on what the starter issue/back window might be?  I'm a admitted bad searcher, basically just lazy!  

Thanks,

Tommy

 

[miesk5]

Yo TOMMY!,

Congratulations on the 95 and Welcome to the Zone.

Some info for you:

1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure by Ford via me

Check glass run for damage or debris and the "rollers" can go bad and even mess up the tracks if let go long enough.

The "rollers" in question are actually plastic, square blocks that slide back and forth in the tracks as the scissors move them up/down.
Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.
Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

apply dry (Teflon) **** to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry **** prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, **** it with multi purpose grease.
Are Glass rollers ok?
Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator
Tailgate could be mis-aligned

Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are:
1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it.

2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or

3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them).

You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..." 
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) 

I periodically remove harness wrapping between tailgate shell and body to inspect wires and wrap with harness tape or plastic spiral wrap.

Starter Motor Cranks Slowly;

Inspect for loose battery posts, connectors, cables and visible wire strands & under insulation an inch or so under coonectors:
- for corrosion, damage or looseness.
- include ground cables from battery post & connector to engine, frame, intake manifold, hood, etc.; see some by jowens1126;

and my post @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/442834-fuel-gauge-not-working-new-build.html

- and positive cable from battery to relay to starter.

- check starter relay body to inner fender for tightness to a clean, non-rusted/grime -free surface.
- check battery for full charge; done with new batty.

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Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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FORUM INFO;

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Post any  TECH questions in a new thread in 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support section & keep it limited to one issue. Mainly so that old farts such as I don't get confused.

To show off your 95, such as any build-up or modifications post in  80-96 Ford Bronco section.

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Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
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Click, My Profile
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In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes.

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Good luck with the 95 Tommy!

Al
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[tommy854runner]

WOW!

Thanks for all of that great info.  Can't wait to get this beast back on the road!