Just bought this 1986 Bronco 5.0l with manual trans, UPDATE - Couple more questions, Help!

[Smafugula]

A few years ago I paid about $125 for a Warren set. Now the change over from auto to manual .It might cost a good bit more. I don,t know.Go on line and look and don,t rush it. Theirs places that you can save. Part stores won,t. They order from the net too and add more and you have to wait--just like if you order from the internet. Also check around different junk yards. The front ends are also the same as under GM AND CHRYSLER PRODUCTS. Its how they are mounted that may be different and gear ratios. On the 78-79 Fords.They have the REVERSE GEAR. Its the only 2 years like that.

10-4! Yeah 78-79 are my favorite Bronco years

 

[Smafugula]

Hope you do. hahahaha Mine is 38 inches.I measured from the rear of the seat to the tailgate.

Just did. It’s the same 38in

 

[johnnyreb]

Just did. It’s the same 38in

maybe the picture is deceiving. I have new tores on mine and the other day I took a picture of the area and it looks like I have maypops on it.hahahaha. I,ll try and get picture of mine tomorrow.

 

[johnnyreb]

10-4! Yeah 78-79 are my favorite Bronco years

The plus side of it was. I didn,t have to use as many parts. I hope it works. I haven,t had a chance to try it out yet.

 

[johnnyreb]

I’ll go measure now. Got my order in today from LMC Truck. Got some weather stripping for back window (active leak inside tailgate) and a motor from Napa (Chinese).

also got some seat belt buckle holders, bulbs for overhead lamp and some other little doodads

Do y’all recommend replacing back window motor with new or repairing OEM? I figured since the new motor was $40 it was worth just replacing. But then started to think and how everything is made in China now blah blah blah

Their is a place on hear .Where a guy took his apart (with pictures) and all it needed was cleaned up and new grease in it. Their is also a place in hear where a guy replaced the bearings with a good idea and THEY LOOK LIKE BEARINGS and he said it worked good. Good luck with CHINA JUNK. I just tried fixing a light today with a China junk switch. . Better off going to a junk yard and get a real AMERICAN MADE PRODUCT.

 

[Smafugula]

Their is a place on hear .Where a guy took his apart (with pictures) and all it needed was cleaned up and new grease in it. Their is also a place in hear where a guy replaced the bearings with a good idea and THEY LOOK LIKE BEARINGS and he said it worked good. Good luck with CHINA JUNK. I just tried fixing a light today with a China junk switch. . Better off going to a junk yard and get a real AMERICAN MADE PRODUCT.

Yeah thats what I am worried about Chinese junk, I've been surfing the forum here and everyone is talking about repairing not replacing motor. Motor spins you can hear it but little to no movement on window up/down. It did work before.. I was gunna take the whole tailgate apart anyway and replace all weatherstripping.

 

[johnnyreb]

I’ll go measure now. Got my order in today from LMC Truck. Got some weather stripping for back window (active leak inside tailgate) and a motor from Napa (Chinese).

also got some seat belt buckle holders, bulbs for overhead lamp and some other little doodads

Do y’all recommend replacing back window motor with new or repairing OEM? I figured since the new motor was $40 it was worth just replacing. But then started to think and how everything is made in China now blah blah blah

I myself would take the motor apart and clean it up. Put in RED grease in it and repair what was needed. Make SURE all ground wires are in good shape and the connecting places are cleaned up real good. Check the rubber groumet to see they are in good shape and no chance the wire can wear into bear metal later on. Clean the inside of the tailgate. Clean out all drain holes (and I coated the inside of the tailgate with grease--protecting it from water. Also check under the carpets for rust .

 

[johnnyreb]

Yeah thats what I am worried about Chinese junk, I've been surfing the forum here and everyone is talking about repairing not replacing motor. Motor spins you can hear it but little to no movement on window up/down. It did work before.. I was gunna take the whole tailgate apart anyway and replace all weatherstripping.

maybe a rod came off. Take it apart and use your camera to take pictures. So You will be able to put it back together right. I saw where a guy on hear had the same thing and a part had rusted in to.

 

[johnnyreb]

10-4! Yeah 78-79 are my favorite Bronco years

Smaf--NOTAVEG lives in Ga and he is pretty knowledgeable on these broncos. He might lives close to you and tell you alot of information .That could help you.He,s on this sight

 

[Smafugula]

@NotaVegetarian you have been summoned by @johnnyreb what say you? Lol

 

[johnnyreb]

@NotaVegetarian you have been summoned by @johnnyreb what say you? Lol

be funny if you all knew one another. hahaha

 

[miesk5]

Yo Smafugula,
Locking Hubs, Automatic; Swaps to Manual
5 ***** to Mile Marker in a 91 (no torque specs)
Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG)

5 ***** to Warn® & Bearing Replacement w/ Bearing Locknut Torque Settings in a 90; and, Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!
Source: by 90beater (Topher, Chris) at bronco.tophersworld.com

Locking Hub Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This float is normal and will not affect performance..." Source: by Warn®


TAILGATE:

​

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB​

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net​

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..." Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster)​

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..." Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at SuperMotors.net​

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pics; "...A cheap, quick, & reliable repair for most Ford window motors is to replace the degraded Delrin bushings in the motor's drive gear with common 1/4" nuts (thread pitch doesn't matter). Grease is only necessary on the central shaft & the outer plastic gear teeth - not in the pockets where the nuts go..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net ​

 

[Jasgeer]

I’ll go measure now. Got my order in today from LMC Truck. Got some weather stripping for back window (active leak inside tailgate) and a motor from Napa (Chinese).

also got some seat belt buckle holders, bulbs for overhead lamp and some other little doodads

Do y’all recommend replacing back window motor with new or repairing OEM? I figured since the new motor was $40 it was worth just replacing. But then started to think and how everything is made in China now blah blah blah

Smafugula,
At a minimum I suggest you purchase one of the many brands of Rust Converters which are on the market. I had an old Ford van and the roof had many areas of rust from being parked near the beach. The Rust Converter totally stopped the rust in its tracks. I then painted on some Rustoleum paint and called it good enough for my purposes. You can compare customer ratings of different brands on Amazon. The black coating from the rust converter will only last about 6 months if left exposed to the elements which is why you need to have a coat of paint over it.

Rust converter​

Rust converters are chemical solutions or primers that can be applied directly to an iron or iron alloy surface to convert iron oxides into a protective chemical barrier. These compounds interact with iron oxides, especially iron(III) oxide, converting them into an adherent black layer that is more resistant to moisture and protects the surface from further corrosion. They are sometimes referred to as "rust remover" or "rust killer".

 

[Smafugula]

Smafugula,
At a minimum I suggest you purchase one of the many brands of Rust Converters which are on the market. I had an old Ford van and the roof had many areas of rust from being parked near the beach. The Rust Converter totally stopped the rust in its tracks. I then painted on some Rustoleum paint and called it good enough for my purposes. You can compare customer ratings of different brands on Amazon. The black coating from the rust converter will only last about 6 months if left exposed to the elements which is why you need to have a coat of paint over it.

Rust converter​

Rust converters are chemical solutions or primers that can be applied directly to an iron or iron alloy surface to convert iron oxides into a protective chemical barrier. These compounds interact with iron oxides, especially iron(III) oxide, converting them into an adherent black layer that is more resistant to moisture and protects the surface from further corrosion. They are sometimes referred to as "rust remover" or "rust killer".

I had someone mention this product, are you familiar at all with it?

Rust Preventive Coating

Stop rust permanently with POR-15's Rust Preventive Coating. This anti-rust coating paint is designed to paint directly on prepped seasoned metal surfaces.

por15.com

 

[miesk5]

Yo,
I used it, but later we to Rust Bullet,

Solved the unsolveable: how to get dried Por 15 off your skin. @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/thre...how-to-get-dried-por-15-off-your-skin.426585/​

 

[NotaVegetarian]

POR is good stuff for frames and floors it’s tuff to get off your hands. You can brush, roll or spray, even have a attachment for spraying into the frame cavities. It also has a lot of forgiveness so brush wire wheel, blast whatever. On the exterior brush the rust then cover with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, then coat with your color

 

[Tiha]

Gotta tell ya, I don't like knocking anyone's products but I had a pretty bad experience with POR 15. Spent a lot of time and a lot of phone calls trying to get it to do what they said it would do. It did not work for me.

On the other hand if it is someplace you cannot see it, rustoleum, brushed on right out of the can is pretty amazing stuff when it comes to stopping and preventing rust. Cheap too.

 

[johnnyreb]

Gotta tell ya, I don't like knocking anyone's products but I had a pretty bad experience with POR 15. Spent a lot of time and a lot of phone calls trying to get it to do what they said it would do. It did not work for me.

On the other hand if it is someplace you cannot see it, rustoleum, brushed on right out of the can is pretty amazing stuff when it comes to stopping and preventing rust. Cheap too.

If they will lie to sale a product and it fails for me. I don,t mind telling anyone. It helps alot of people what and who to stay away from. From the articles I have read about the down side of POR 15. I won,t be useing it. If a person could afford it. The paint they use on air planes is suppose to be so tough. You can,nt take a torch and burn it off. As fas as they fly. and it stays on. You know it has to be good.haha

 

[Tiha]

I think it was gacknar? of full size bronco did a comparison of rust bullet and por 15. I don't think he was impressed with the por 15 either.

My situation was maybe a little different. I did the windshield frame. followed the directions, used the metal prep and marine cleaner. Painted it. Installed the windshield.
couple weeks later the windshield was leaking.
When preparing to seal it up I gently pushed on it and it came right out. The paint did not stick to the POR 15. Paint was stuck to the urethane on the windshield. Por 15 stuck to the truck.
Called them. They said I need to scuff it. Originally since the time frame between application and paint was so short the instructions said no need for any other prep just paint.
Tried again, same result, going down the road the windshield was letting air in. You could hear it and feel it. Again, paint lifted right off the POR 15.
Called them back.
Ground it all out and started over from scratch.
Again, 2 weeks.

Went through this like 3 or 4 times. Windshields aren't cheap. Geez the urethane wasn't cheap, luckily I didn't break one. I hated ******** around with it.
Finally sanded all the POR15 away, primed and painted like normal and no more problems.

So it may be a good product in certain applications but not for every application.

 

[johnnyreb]

I think it was gacknar? of full size bronco did a comparison of rust bullet and por 15. I don't think he was impressed with the por 15 either.

My situation was maybe a little different. I did the windshield frame. followed the directions, used the metal prep and marine cleaner. Painted it. Installed the windshield.
couple weeks later the windshield was leaking.
When preparing to seal it up I gently pushed on it and it came right out. The paint did not stick to the POR 15. Paint was stuck to the urethane on the windshield. Por 15 stuck to the truck.
Called them. They said I need to scuff it. Originally since the time frame between application and paint was so short the instructions said no need for any other prep just paint.
Tried again, same result, going down the road the windshield was letting air in. You could hear it and feel it. Again, paint lifted right off the POR 15.
Called them back.
Ground it all out and started over from scratch.
Again, 2 weeks.

Went through this like 3 or 4 times. Windshields aren't cheap. Geez the urethane wasn't cheap, luckily I didn't break one. I hated ******** around with it.
Finally sanded all the POR15 away, primed and painted like normal and no more problems.

So it may be a good product in certain applications but not for every application.

I won,t be useing it.Thanks TIHA