Ignition Problem

[terprugr]

When my Bronco gets hot after about 20 mins, it dies - no juice from the coil. Changed the coil. Makes sense. Had it happen on my '77 before. Still have the same problem. Is the new coil bad too or is there something else it could be? Ballast resistors don't short out do they? Resistors usually burn out and I know that thing is only an aid for low start voltage.

Oh, I have an MSD ignition box on it, but I have the same problem whether it is plugged in or not.

 

[bidibronco]

Well, lets start by what year and engine and such. Make a signature and it'll make it easier to find out what the problem is. I would start by checking the dizzy. I had the same thing happen to me once and it was a broken thing inside the dizzy. Just my $.02 tho..

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Well, lets start by what year and engine and such. Make a signature and it'll make it easier to find out what the problem is. I would start by checking the dizzy. I had the same thing happen to me once and it was a broken thing inside the dizzy. Just my $.02 tho..

Bidi...

You have to be one of the funniest guys here /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

You have a lot of experience with broken $hit... stuff, and pretty often you are right on the mark, but your comments are as vague as mine, (because I only have a clue,) but don't really know what I am talking about. Yours are along the lines of .. figure out what that thingy is that I am talking about.. and you'll get it fixed! Man I gotta love ya. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

terprugr, don't fret you will get your answer here. Seabronc has posted about it a number of times since I have been a regular here. If I remember correctly there is some type of a pick up coil in the distributor. That once it heats up the truck acts as though someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off. Once it cools, the truck will start and run, until ...

 

[terprugr]

Bidi...You have to be one of the funniest guys here /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

You have a lot of experience with broken $hit... stuff, and pretty often you are right on the mark, but your comments are as vague as mine, (because I only have a clue,) but don't really know what I am talking about. Yours are along the lines of .. figure out what that thingy is that I am talking about.. and you'll get it fixed! Man I gotta love ya. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

terprugr, don't fret you will get your answer here. Seabronc has posted about it a number of times since I have been a regular here. If I remember correctly there is some type of a pick up coil in the distributor. That once it heats up the truck acts as though someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off. Once it cools, the truck will start and run, until ...

Sweet. That makes sense. It's got TFI so there's is just some big blob of stuff under the rotor Ive never messed with before. Thanks guys.

 

[Broncobill78]

Bidi...You have to be one of the funniest guys here /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Ahh, Bidi's just funny cuz' he keeps finding new ways to break old parts and smokes a perfectly good engine every 6 months /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Nothin' but love for ya Bidi, nuthin' but love /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Still hoping to see ya nxt yr on your way North, but if there's a flaming bag of Dogshit on my doorstep I'll know you were in town /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

PS: Paper, not plastic

 

[91 Bogger]

I had the same thing happen on my 90 and it was the ignition moduale on the distributor. Try that.

 

[Broncobill78]

When my Bronco gets hot after about 20 mins, it dies - no juice from the coil. Changed the coil. Makes sense. Had it happen on my '77 before. Still have the same problem. Is the new coil bad too or is there something else it could be? Ballast resistors don't short out do they? Resistors usually burn out and I know that thing is only an aid for low start voltage.
Oh, I have an MSD ignition box on it, but I have the same problem whether it is plugged in or not.

I'd be amazed if a new coil went bad. What are the chances that the problem is being caused by *two* bad coils ? Pretty slim. Don't some MSD boxes have diagnostic ports ? I'd try swapping back in the old ignition module if you still have it, that would eliminate the MSD box as the problem.

 

[bidibronco]

Isn't there a magnet of some sort in dizzy's? (I'm not the brightest on that stuff that'll have a chance at shockin' ya, get hit by a "small" amount of 10.5 second Model A coil and you'll know what I mean...) I had the same thing happen in my 84 Nissan, the magnet thingy inside was it 4 pieces and hit the junkyard up for one at $10 (gotta love the small towns!). Fixed it untill my bro got a DUI in it and the wrecker bill was more than I paid for the car! Thanks for older brothers huh?

Oh yeah... Vote for the bidi for the funny guy.... I'll try to not let anyone down... is it bad that I'm funny?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

SeaBronc in another thread stated that a classic sign of a faulty pick up coil inside the distributor is that the engine shuts off (like someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off) when it warms up.

 

[Redneck86]

Check the wires on the top of the coil under that "U" lookin thing, the jacket on my wires had cracked and there was one little piece if copper left in it, i had to cut the wire and then splice it back on. Kinda sucked too i found that out after replacin the ignition module and shocked myself twice /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> (condensers kinda hurt)

 

[terprugr]

I suspected the ICM, but didn't know what it was so didn't mess with it. Did a little research and found that my exact problem was the reason for a mass recall of ALL Fords in 2002. I guess the thing heats up and goes to ****. Good excuse to change my whole ignition system. This is how I understand the thing to work:

the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is that hall effect sensor that the ICM plugs into. This provides cam position and RPM info in a square signal (off-on-off-on) as the distributor spins.

The SPOUT signal (the one you disconnect when setting the timing) is the SPark OUTput signal which is produced by the ICM to control the dwell of the coil and the sparking of the plugs.

Makes sense if that thing get messed up - no spark. I couldn't understand why the coil lost juice, but now I do - the ICM controls the coil too.

I think I could retire right now on all the money I've spent on Broncos over the years.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

<snip>I think I could retire right now on all the money I've spent on Broncos over the years.

Yahoo!!! Good for you!

I'm glad to hear that you got it to work.

Now about that retirement idea.... you would probably still have broncos, and would need a steady source of income to feed them. So... haha... you're still stuck working like the rest of us. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />