Hub Swap For 87-88 Broncos

[Carnutt73]

I have all the parts now to do the swap so i thought i would start the thread. Build pics will be coming some time next month since i blew my knee out just the other day. Need some time to heal up. So i thought i would start this off with showing what's available to do the swap and other methods and what to watch out for.

The first is about the different Dana 44 TTB's. This came in a standard type that is found in most F150's and Broncos, next is the Dana 44 HD TTB that is mostly found in the F250 and could be special ordered in the F150. You will come across this version from 80 to 86 with it being phased out for the Dana 50. The biggest difference between the standard and the HD is axel shaft length. The 2 are not interchangeable. But Look Alike.

 

[Carnutt73]

Next is the difference between the spindle's, They have changed through the different generations of the F series and bronco. In order to use the Spindle from say a 94 on an 87 you will need to change the knuckle as well. The beams have stayed the same.

 

[Carnutt73]

Another thing to watch out for is the stub shaft end at the hub since there are 2 types. One takes a c clip while the other takes bolts to retain them. You will mostly run into the c-clip type but should be aware of the other one.

 

[Carnutt73]

Lastly is one that should be avoided. That is the Dana-Vemco V Drive. From the knuckle out it resembles the Dana 44 but the parts will not interchange with anything so this should be avoided for parts. Its easy to spot due to it having a diff on each side and 2 drivelines.

 

[Carnutt73]

Now all that info is for if you want to source parts from the junk yard. I got an entire TTB from a 90 F150 from a local junk yard for $160. This worked well for me since it gave me every thing to do the swap. And although the brake rotor's are a little rusty from sitting it had new rotors on it so it was a plus.

 

[Carnutt73]

There is one more way to do this and that is to buy a conversion kit. Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has a kit to do this that comes with everything needed to do the swap. The kit is around $700 but it is all new parts and even comes with new locking hubs.

 

[Carnutt73]

Now cost is something we all think about so here is a rundown of the cost for the junkyard method.

The Axel was $160 But you should replace the bearings and seals as well as the u-joint in the axel. That cost me $180 for those parts. And last is the locking hubs. I chose to replace the ones that came on the axel for a set of Warn premium hubs that cost $150.

This cost me in total just under $500. That cost would be higher if i had to buy new rotors as well. There are pros and cons for either the junkyard or the kit such as cost. The junkyard is cheaper but is a lot more work. The kit costs more but half the work. Either way is a good choice. I chose to go the junkyard route since i have the time to do that and the junkyard i deal with is great and helps out.

If you decide to go the junkyard route i would recommend buying the entire axel and not just the parts off it. The reason is if you run into trouble while doing the conversion such as finding out you have a bad knuckle you just walk over pop the one off the parts axel and your right back at it. Plus it can help having it around in case of any unforeseen issues.