Hub lockers. Manual or Auto? Can I switch to Auto?

[snowman74]

Howdy again to you all!

87' full size Bronco XLT with 302, 4wd and 4 speed manual tranny. I'm tired of getting out in the rain/snow/mud etc to lock the hubs. Plus, I think the neighborhood kids sometimes ***** around with the manual lockers and I'm locked in front and don't know it until I go to use my 4wd.

Pro's and Con's?

Best way to switch? I don't go cheap on my Bronco...I mean, I'm not rich, but if I'm going to do it, it's going to be with the BEST equipment I can get...or I'll wait til I can afford it.

Please let me know! :blink:

 

[cowboydan]

it's easy to switch to manual hubs. i think it would be more complex to put on auto hubs. i don't know anyone who had auto hubs and never had issues. i might suggest getting some dog stop chew. just spray your hubs and it tastes just horrible! my son and his friends were always climbing in, on and around my truck. i sprayed the tires, doors bumpers,ect, no kids climbing on my truck any more. but really, it will only take a couple times before kids get the hint. but the auto hubs.... i wouldn't recomend

 

[snowman74]

Thank you COWBOYDAN,

Well, my Momma has a 90 with the 351...and it has autolockers. She hasn't had a problem with them as long as she remembers to go into reverse. I'd really like the convenience of auto's. You don't think any of the after-market manufacturers or even Ford stock are a good idea? Have you ever personally run auto-lockers?

I noticed some impressive stats about your Bronco. I'm curious about a couple of your stats...how'd you do positrac rear? I don't think it's stock on my 8.8 rear-end. I haven't really payed much attention, I usually just put it in 4 when I've got problems and go.

Another question...PROPANE? how'd you do that? How's the fuel economy? Isn't that just slightly more dangerous than CNG? I've got access to CNG here. There's also plenty of propane...but no fueling stations for vehicles that I know of, but I don't know a thing about it. Suggest any sites? Thanks bud! >-

 

[ocalabronco]

dont go back to auto's. how many miles are on your mom's 90? EVERYBODY i have talked to has had issues with the autos after 100K miles. just stick with the autos and check your hubs in the morning. 5 more seconds wont be that bad. and just lock your hubs before you get into the mud and snow, rain just **** it up

 

[snowman74]

Yeah, good point. I could easily do that. Her's is a 90' and has less than 100,000.

This gives me an opportunity to brag a little...mine is an 87' with...get this...OVER 300,000! Want to know the major repairs? New IAC, couple new sets of rotors and calipers. One new set of drums and lines. ONE tranny rebuild. Valve cover gasket replacment and went from manifolds to headers...replacing the headers just once since they were installed. Oh, and a new gas tank. Not bad for a nearly 20 year old Bronco with that many miles, huh?

Ancient secret for ya'll...run Quaker State 10W40 YEAR ROUND. Don't run synthetic. Put a really good oil filter on...not necessarily the most expensive, but good, such as a Napa Gold or the higher end Fram. Keep that oil changed every three, but no more than 4,000 miles, and you won't have engine problems. >-

 

[cowboydan]

Thank you COWBOYDAN,
Well, my Momma has a 90 with the 351...and it has autolockers. She hasn't had a problem with them as long as she remembers to go into reverse. I'd really like the convenience of auto's. You don't think any of the after-market manufacturers or even Ford stock are a good idea? Have you ever personally run auto-lockers?

I noticed some impressive stats about your Bronco. I'm curious about a couple of your stats...how'd you do positrac rear? I don't think it's stock on my 8.8 rear-end. I haven't really payed much attention, I usually just put it in 4 when I've got problems and go.

Another question...PROPANE? how'd you do that? How's the fuel economy? Isn't that just slightly more dangerous than CNG? I've got access to CNG here. There's also plenty of propane...but no fueling stations for vehicles that I know of, but I don't know a thing about it. Suggest any sites? Thanks bud! >-

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i've never run auto hubs but i wheel alot and everyone i have ever met really has nothing nice to say about them except the convenience of them. i won't run them cause i firmly believe in learning from others mistakes. even the pros say the the first mod should be to loose the autos'.

my rear end is not 8.8, it is a 9". 8.8 is too weak, but by no means am i saying you can't use your 8.8, it's just that you need to know where your weak links are and don't go beond your rigs capabilities. the posi is working out for me right now but the detriot locker is what i'm out to get.... eventually

the propane is also working out for me. it's about 1/2 the price of gas, it also burns cleaner. havn't notice any power loss over gas.i don't think propane is more volitile than gas but i do have a rather impressive skidd plate for protection. i'm assuming cng is natural gas and we have no conventional pumps for that here... that i know of

 

[B-man]

Just switched from auto hubs to locking hub on my g/f's 91. They crapped out on us.. In no way should you go backwards and put on hubs that aren't going to be reliable when you need them most. But, your decision.. I would just go out before each time I get in my rig. Check the hubs? Make sure they are in the free position?

Changing from manual to auto shouldn't be too hard.. Reverse process is all.

 

[94redbronco]

manual locking hubs are alot better. with auto locking hubs if you get your front wheels stuck and cant roll 10 feet in reverse then your stuck in 2 wheel drive and can get stuck( an example of this i have a 94' with manual locking hubs and an eaton e-locker. my friend has a 95' stock with the auto hubs. he put the truck in 4 wheel drive and pulled off the road to hit a trail that is a usual hot spot for us (its a good place to party and attract no attention) when he was exiting the trail before he pulled on to he street he went to disengadge his 4 wheel drive and backed up in to a mud pit he didn't see. long story short i had to save his @$$ that night.) also a good set of manual locking hubs are considerably stronger than auto. but the down side is one of the other weak points in the drive train will break if you push it to hard.

 

[snowman74]

Alright, you guy's have talked me out of switching to auto lockers. Are the stock manuals about as good as you can do? If so, I won't even mess with them.

I know the 8.8 rearend is weak. I forgot to mention in my bragging that I did have to put in some new guts in the rearend after about 200,000 miles. I also must admit I've never really trailered anything upwards of two tons (gross weight, not tongue, obviously). I'd like a beefier rearend...I'd also like rear disks. I haven't been able to get a really good definitive answer on what would be the best rearend to put in. I see on JBGY that Currie is selling an 8.8 with 9" housing ends and 31 spline axel. I definitely won't be doing that. Check that item out if you get a chance. Their position is that the computer and ABS on rear are really affected by rearend swaps. Sounds like BS to me.

What are my real weak links in the drivetrain? I know the tranny is built for towing. I don't want to affect the gearing severely. Ideas welcome.

 

[Seabronc]

Alright, you guy's have talked me out of switching to auto lockers. Are the stock manuals about as good as you can do? If so, I won't even mess with them.
I know the 8.8 rearend is weak. I forgot to mention in my bragging that I did have to put in some new guts in the rearend after about 200,000 miles. I also must admit I've never really trailered anything upwards of two tons (gross weight, not tongue, obviously). I'd like a beefier rearend...I'd also like rear disks. I haven't been able to get a really good definitive answer on what would be the best rearend to put in. I see on JBGY that Currie is selling an 8.8 with 9" housing ends and 31 spline axel. I definitely won't be doing that. Check that item out if you get a chance. Their position is that the computer and ABS on rear are really affected by rearend swaps. Sounds like BS to me.

What are my real weak links in the drivetrain? I know the tranny is built for towing. I don't want to affect the gearing severely.  Ideas welcome.

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Generally, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The exception is upgrading to something bigger, stronger, prettier, etc. As far as your hubs go the stock ones are just fine but if you want a nicer looking set Warn Premiums are great.

My truck has had the same 8.8 rear end in it for 23 years with out a hitch. When my son-in-law bought it 8 years ago, it was a sand dune runner with 33 x 12.5's. I put 31 x 10.5's on it last year to give it better highway characteristics. Like the Eveready Bunny, "it keeps on running" with out any rear end issues. So unless you are planning on doing some serious wheel upgrades that will put a lot of torque on it save your money. If you are going to upgrade it go to a Dana60 or better and skip the 9". Right about the BS, you can make a small modification to pru the speed sensor

 

[cowboydan]

if you wheel realy hard like myself, your weak links most likely to suffer are: hubs, front bearings, rear ujoint, and ofcourse mud in the carb snorcal or not... it's going to happen. that opens a whole other can of worms, but with better than average upkeep you should turn out more reliable. if you want to upgrade the diff but don't want 3/4 ton, then the 9" is your best bet.