Help with seized engine removal

SchoolfriendSteve

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Hey guys- have a ‘79 with a 351m that is seized. Looking for ideas to remove engine with transmission attached. Not much in the shop manual or online that discusses separating the transmission from the transfer case if things aren’t turning. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
I’ve tried a number of ways to get the pistons freed up from the cylinders, rusted tight. Prior owner had it sitting out in the rain. This is what both sides look like. Thx. Steve
 

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Tiha

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You can pull the engine with torque converter attached. There is enough room. That leave the trans in the truck.

Otherwise pull the transfer case off, and you can bring the trans out with the engine, just have to tip it a long ways.
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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@Tiha - Thanks for the comment. Are you saying that when I start pulling the engine forward, the torque converter will slide off with it? Anything that needs to be disconnected on the trans side to make that happen? Thanks in advance for your response.
 

Tiha

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Correct. The torque convertor can stay bolted to the flywheel. Just undo the bell housing bolts like normal. Skip the flywheel bolts, which is really your problem correct?

You should try to support the tans best you can, you don't really want the weight of the trans hanging off the input shaft. Jack the trans up as you raise the engine as you slide it off, and you will find plenty of people that will say NOOOOO because you can damage the input bushing and seal to the trans. Blah, Blah, blah.
I have done it that way a few times and never had any collateral damage.

Probably wouldn't hurt to put a new seal and bushing in the trans pump anyway just to be safe. At least a seal, and inspect the bushing, make sure it isn't cocked in there.

You will need to slide the engine farther forward than normal to clear the input shaft. If I remember right we had to pull the radiator. I think with the radiator and fan clutch off there was enough room to get the TC to clear the input shaft.

Your engine if half torn down, maybe you won't have to pull the radiator.
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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Correct. The torque convertor can stay bolted to the flywheel. Just undo the bell housing bolts like normal. Skip the flywheel bolts, which is really your problem correct?

You should try to support the tans best you can, you don't really want the weight of the trans hanging off the input shaft. Jack the trans up as you raise the engine as you slide it off, and you will find plenty of people that will say NOOOOO because you can damage the input bushing and seal to the trans. Blah, Blah, blah.
I have done it that way a few times and never had any collateral damage.

Probably wouldn't hurt to put a new seal and bushing in the trans pump anyway just to be safe. At least a seal, and inspect the bushing, make sure it isn't cocked in there.

You will need to slide the engine farther forward than normal to clear the input shaft. If I remember right we had to pull the radiator. I think with the radiator and fan clutch off there was enough room to get the TC to clear the input shaft.

Your engine if half torn down, maybe you won't have to pull the radiator.
 

Tiha

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Geez, yeah you will have no problem sliding it out with torque convertor attached.
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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Correct, I cannot access flywheel bolts. Radiator is already out and everything else is already off the front end of the engine, should be plenty if room. Thanks again for the help.
Geez, yeah you will have no problem sliding it out with torque convertor attached.
 

chrlsful

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some of us really try'n avoid that question~

It takes some patients - ATF/kero down carb/s.plug holes; waiting, turning crank snout w/right wrench, popping w/the starter, etc. If time has been spent (2, 3 days of an hr or so each time 'playing') then I'd go on w/just a motor removal (unless U want an entirely different transmis - custom to 80% of ur use, ie - aod, 5 speed, etc). We avoid ring & valve damage by removin the rocker cover during this effort'n observing top end all the while~

Give this ol girl alota luv. It treated some1 pretty well B4 they kicked it to the curb. U may even find out Y'n "bring'er back" w/o much effort??? Pullin engine/transmis requires a hellofa angle (so long end to end) that I don't recommend. Extra equp/effort (certainly doable but easily avoidable
 

Motoxman56

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Hey guys- have a ‘79 with a 351m that is seized. Looking for ideas to remove engine with transmission attached. Not much in the shop manual or online that discusses separating the transmission from the transfer case if things aren’t turning. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
I’ve tried a number of ways to get the pistons freed up from the cylinders, rusted tight. Prior owner had it sitting out in the rain. This is what both sides look like. Thx. Steve
I just went through this on my 85 I was able to pull engine with the Torque Converter Attached. Had to pull Trans and Xfer Case back, remove Radiator Condenser and Grill Pull Engine Forward to Separate Transmission Input Shaft all went well Now I’m Looking for a 5.8 my Cylinders wouldn’t clean up at .040 over apparently it had sat with both head gaskets blown for 25 years. The other trick was removing the stuck pistons but it’s all doable. Good Luck! John
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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I just went through this on my 85 I was able to pull engine with the Torque Converter Attached. Had to pull Trans and Xfer Case back, remove Radiator Condenser and Grill Pull Engine Forward to Separate Transmission Input Shaft all went well Now I’m Looking for a 5.8 my Cylinders wouldn’t clean up at .040 over apparently it had sat with both head gaskets blown for 25 years. The other trick was removing the stuck pistons but it’s all doable. Good Luck! John
Thanks, John. I doubt this one’s going to be salvageable. Too much rust in the cylinders. Just need to get it out so I can proceed with plan B. Appreciate the comments.
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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some of us really try'n avoid that question~

It takes some patients - ATF/kero down carb/s.plug holes; waiting, turning crank snout w/right wrench, popping w/the starter, etc. If time has been spent (2, 3 days of an hr or so each time 'playing') then I'd go on w/just a motor removal (unless U want an entirely different transmis - custom to 80% of ur use, ie - aod, 5 speed, etc). We avoid ring & valve damage by removin the rocker cover during this effort'n observing top end all the while~

Give this ol girl alota luv. It treated some1 pretty well B4 they kicked it to the curb. U may even find out Y'n "bring'er back" w/o much effort??? Pullin engine/transmis requires a hellofa angle (so long end to end) that I don't recommend. Extra equp/effort (certainly doable but easily avoidable
Thank you for your comments... it’s definitely excel using my patience, but I love solving the puzzle that this has become. Appreciate the help.
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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Thank you for your comments... it’s definitely excel using my patience, but I love solving the puzzle that this has become. Appreciate the help.
Hey, one other question since you brought it up... if I want to swap out trans with AOD, will it still mesh with existing transfer case and FWD set-up? Or do you have to give that up and just go with RWD if AOD trans?
 

chrlsful

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did I say puta tq wrench on the crank? I would stop 'pushin it' (or may B pullin it) around 50#s. That tells me 'wait on the penitratin fluid', give it another gulp, wait, air chuck down each plug hole (I havea couple threded chucks), or give up'n dissasemble...Turn the crank a lill each direction back'n forth just a lill. No "huge sudden progress".
 

chrlsful

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Messages
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S. Amherst, MA 01002-1827
...if I want to swap out trans with AOD, will it still mesh with existing transfer case and FWD set-up?...
I believe U can have an AOD & 4WD. R U familiar w/'adaptor'? A plate between the transmis'n engine, the transmis'n transfer? Ck in w/"Novak" and/or Advance Adapters as thay are the big nat co.s that make up these things. I hada neighbor (W.MA is covered w/machinists as we came up w/the whole concept @ X of the industrial revolution) make up some for me as I put an off motor w/an even further off transm in my vehicle.
 

chrlsful

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after motor jacked up a tiny we slide a stiff bar under transmiss to keep it up (as above, remove motor and it falls). Not alota weight but 1/2 to 3/4 the transmis weight (+ DS, etc). This way it's ready for the triumphant return of King Motor. aahahahaaa
 

SchoolfriendSteve

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Dec 29, 2019
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Madison
after motor jacked up a tiny we slide a stiff bar under transmiss to keep it up (as above, remove motor and it falls). Not alota weight but 1/2 to 3/4 the transmis weight (+ DS, etc). This way it's ready for the triumphant return of King Motor. aahahahaaa
Thanks for the heads up. Yes, will definitely figure out something to support it. 8” of snow and icy temps have put this off for a couple weeks, but I’m still putting my plan together. Thank you to all for the insight. Great forum for Bronco experts!
 

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