Going to buy a 79 this week tons of ????'s

Shmitty

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Hey ya'll,

***Skip next paragraph if you bore easy***

If you don't mind I'll do my introduction here and give a quick bio. When I was younger my dad had a 78 bronco for a few years and some of my best memories were in that thing.He was pretty wild in his younger years and one trip to the river he decided to drive the bronco down the bank, getting in was the easy part, a couple of days later and a whole lot of cut willow trees they got it out(pretty sure beer was to blame). The motor blew(not during the river incident) and he sold it. Anyway on to my current plans lord knows they could change but I like to be as educated as possible before I start something. I just sold my 05 F150 to my brother as he started a pretty good paying job and needed a reliable truck to get to work. My truck was paid for and my brother is making payments so I plan to put 4-5k(not including purchase price) into a Bronco. My mechanical skills are limited but I am a fast learner and have a cousin that gets laid off from the rail road during winters who is very mechanically inclined who is looking for something to do over his break.

I've found a 79 on craigslist for a very reasonable price. I've not seen the truck but with gas prices and the fact that its 250 miles round trip from my house I will be going with trailer and cash when I go to see it for the 1st time so no time for questions on here once I get there purchase the truck. Its recently had the motor professionally rebuilt(400m)and comes with alot of extra body parts including 2 extra doors part of the needed fenders and an extra hood.(trailer needed to get spare parts home so will tow bronco also)

-1st question; I seen where someone recommended getting one as stock as possible BUT this one has a 4" lift.-What are some things I should look for for bad shade tree installation?

-2nd question but 1st a quick statement; I would like to get okay gas mileage without hurting off road capability too much and run 70mph on the interstate. The seller stated top speed would be 65 mainly to the truck needing alignment but also he said the motor is running pretty high rpm's at this speed. -What gears would you recommend I know the 9" in the rear and dana 44 in the front are stock options so guessing that's whats there.

-3rd question; It is rusted and he told me his dad welded some sheet metal into the floor pan to patch up holes but what rust areas would be a deal breaker if any when looking @ it. I do plan to check out the frame for rust and I will probably cut out what his dad did and remove all the rusted areas and replace.

If there's anything else you guys think I should check out let me know. Thanks for taking the time to read and if I get it I promise to keep ya'll updated. Here's the picture from craigslist I'll throw some more up if I get it. My wife isn't too excited about me getting this but my father and brother are stoked as am I :) .

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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo S,

WELCOME!

GEARs; depends on tire sizes; so go thru this;

Tire - Lift Guide, Bronco & many makes; w/ Wheel Diameter, Width & Offset Source: by Skyjacker®

then;

Gear Ratio Guide for Larger Tires; Scroll Down or Click, Another RPM/Gear Ratio/Tire chart if site reverts to main page; MIESK5 NOTE, Rough Country® removed this same chart from their site in FEB 2011 & company rep said it isn't there anymore. Source: by Rough Country® via broncocity.com

FYI, "...Ford built our Broncos & other 4x4 trucks & vans with a numerically lower front gear ratio in the front Dana 44 than the rear so that off-road steering is enhanced. A Bronco built with 3.55 rear ratio would have a 3.54 ration in the front Dana 44; or; 3.08 in the 8.8 & 3.07 in the Dana 44; or 4.11 in the 8.8 & 4.10 in the Dana 44, etc..."; Following was in my MS WORD Notes and the source, Randy's Ring & Pinion has removed it from their current web site; The gear ratio in the front of a four wheel drive has to be different from the front so the front wheels will pull more. There have been many different ratio combinations used in four-wheel drive vehicles, but not so that the front will pull more. Gear manufactures use different ratios for many different reasons. Some of those reasons are: strength, gear life, noise (or lack of it), geometric constraints, or simply because of the tooling they have available. I have seen Ford use a 3.50 ratio in the rear with a 3.54 in the front, or a 4.11 in the rear with a 4.09 in the front. As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1%, the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% for off-road use with no side effects. point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference, divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point to see how far they vary from 1.00. For example: 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01, or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005, or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height, which probably happens more often than we realize. A difference in the ratio will damage the transfer case. Any extreme difference in front and rear ratios or front and rear tire height will put undue force on the drive train. However, any difference will put strain on all parts of the drivetrain. The forces generated from the difference have to travel through the axle assemblies and the driveshafts to get to the transfer case. These excessive forces can just as easily break a front u-joint or rear spider gear as well as parts in the transfer case.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

===========

Re; "... needing alignment ..."

Inspect radius arm bushings; if looking firm w/no cracks or missing chunks; ck mounting & drop bracket, if installed; no missing bolts, tight, etc. then look at other suspension & steering.

If lift blocks are in rear; ck for any signs of movement, looseness, alignment, etc. If add-a-leaf is in there; ck straps for rust, warpage, cracks, etc.

Here are Superlift's Install Instructions for 78-79 w/4" SUSPENSION lift

Excerpt;

"...Installation requires a professional mechanic. Prior to beginning, inspect the vehicles steering, driveline, and brake systems, paying close attention to the suspension link arms and bushings, anti-sway bars and bushings, tie rod ends, pitman arm, ball joints and wheel bearings. Also check the steering sector-to-frame and all suspension-to-frame attaching points for stress cracks. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace all worn parts..."

SUSPENSION Parts Break-Out Diagram in 78-79 w/ Nomenclature for major components Source: by Ford via broncocity.com

If you buy, I'd ck torques on all Steering & Suspension parts.

Steering Gear to Pitman Arm Parts Break-Out Diagram, 78 Bronco; w/torque specsby Chilton

--

============

An Over-All UPGRADE Overview by Mike M for his 78; at his old medicine.wisc.edu site via web.archive.net

SLOW to Load since I retrieved it from archives & here are excerpts;

"Parts Aquisition

Here are all of the required parts. Some of the parts and labor overlap for each project which is why I decided to do everything at once.

3/4 Ton Conversion

Rear Dana 60 from any 77 1/2 F250 on up. Don't forget the u-bolt backing plates. Anything earlier will not have the spring perches in the correct locations. The one I got allready had 4.10 gears installed, and also came with 4" lift blocks.

Cost: $100

Front Dana 44 HD from 76 though 79 F250s. Earlier axles used drums, and '80 on up are IFS. The HD's from 76 & 77 might come with the MONSTER external spicer hub locks. You can see the difference by clicking HERE. Although big, they aren't necessarily stronger. The 78 and 79 axles are the ones most people recommend getting due to the fact that they use internal locking hubs (ie, no bolts to come loose) and the outer stubs are the same as the 1/2 ton versions meaning finding replacements is much easier. Dual piston calipers will come on any of these axles and these are the reason for needing 16"+ wheels. I've heard from multiple sources that there is no way to fit 15" wheels with the dual piston calipers. If you really want 15" wheels you'll have to use GM calipers. One thing to note is that all Ford 8 lug rotors from 76 through 96 are the same so finding replacements is easy. The 76 axle I got also had 4.10 gears installed, but they won't work, because in 78 Ford switched to reverse rotation gears. the axle tube itself is not useable due to the leaf spring mounts. You just need all of the parts outside of the knuckle, (The knuckles are the same for all practical purposes) and the outer axle-shaft stubs.

Cost: $150

8 Lug Wheels at least 16" in diameter, plus tires, new brake shoes & pads, and this is the best time to have the drums and rotors either turned or replaced as need be.

Cost: about $300 including all the brake hardware & turning labor, and some VERY used tires & wheels.

3/4 Ton master cylinder to fill up those dual piston calipers

Cost: $15

Gear Swap - Save yourself the trouble and just install the lockers NOW!!

Rear D60 4.10 ring, pinion, and carrier Since the D60 I picked up was allready setup this was a no brainer

Cost: $ZIP

Front D44 reverse rotation 4.10 ring, pinion, installation kit, lockrite and carrier

Cost: $400

4" Lift

Rear Blocks - I opted to go with blocks in the rear because they came with the D60. Besides that, I have almost brand new stock springs on there anyways. Once I've decided on a lift/tire size combo that I want to stick with I will have custom springs made.

Cost: $Nada

U-bolts - I bought the largest diameter u-bolts that would fit through the backing plate holes. 5/8" in my case. I think the old ones were 1/2". The main reason I needed these was due to the lift block. I noticed that both the 9" and the D60 axle tubes have the same 3" outer diameter, so if I wasn't adding the lift I could've used the old U-bolts. I wouldn't suggest re-using 20 year old U-bolts (Not that you could get them off in any sort of usable fashion anyways) but mine were fairly new.

Cost: $40

Front Springs I bought used Superlift 4" springs

Cost: $75

Steering geometry corrective hardware and other necessities including:

Dropped pitman arm

Adjustable track bar

2.75" dropped radius arm bracket & 2 degree C-bushings

Extended length stainless steel braided flexible brake hoses (One for each end)

6 RS-9000 shocks

Cost: about $750 I could've saved a lot of money here, but I wanted to do it right!

The cost for everything came to about $1800. Subtract $375 because I sold my old 15" 5 lug wheels & tires for $300 and I got $75 for my old 9", for a grand total of: $1425. Not too bad considering thats about how much some of the IFS lift kits are alone. (Not including labor!!!) I still need to get some decent tires, wheels, and lockers, but they can wait for now"

==

Next is diff to read bec the site isn't being maintained properly by the HostStock Heights, Rear Lift Info & Tips for 78-79 Source: by OX1 (OX, Jim, James O, ******* Bronco Ranger XLT, GREEN_DILYSI)

--

Vent Line Extensions

you may want to install Vent Line Extensions for the Dana 44, NP205 transfer case, C6, & 9"

such as;

Installation w/filters in a 78; Dana 44, NP205 transfer case, C6 & 9" Source: by Mario B (big blue) at SuperMotors.net

&

Breather Box Fabrication Info & pic in a 78; Dana 44, 203/205 transfer case, C6 & 9" Source: by Steve J (seve) at SuperMotors.net

=======

Waterproofing

Article Source: by Dean B at can4x4.com via web.archive.org

Distributor Boot, Lincoln Info & pics in an 89 by Jason M (bearfoot 25, Biotch) at SuperMotors.net

May not fot, so consider DIY; same for ignition module (or re-locate module to cab)

Distributor Vacuum Vent Kit Installation, MSD; for a GM, but neat! Source: by MSD via jegs.com

Snorkel

Installation pics (93 7.3 diesel air cleaner, 02 5.4 air tube) in a 78

Source: by AKBearMoose (Mike M, old hoss, Iron Horse) at SuperMotors.net

one pic for ref;

You must be registered for see images attach


pic though cab in a 78 Source: by OX1 (OX, Jim, James O) at ox.users.SuperMotors.net via web.archive.org

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pics though fender in a 78

Source: by Swampwalker3

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v424/Palustris3/Picture012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v424/Palustris3/snorkel.jpg

GL!

 

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johnnyreb

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Hey ya'll,

***Skip next paragraph if you bore easy***

If you don't mind I'll do my introduction here and give a quick bio. When I was younger my dad had a 78 bronco for a few years and some of my best memories were in that thing.He was pretty wild in his younger years and one trip to the river he decided to drive the bronco down the bank, getting in was the easy part, a couple of days later and a whole lot of cut willow trees they got it out(pretty sure beer was to blame). The motor blew(not during the river incident) and he sold it. Anyway on to my current plans lord knows they could change but I like to be as educated as possible before I start something. I just sold my 05 F150 to my brother as he started a pretty good paying job and needed a reliable truck to get to work. My truck was paid for and my brother is making payments so I plan to put 4-5k(not including purchase price) into a Bronco. My mechanical skills are limited but I am a fast learner and have a cousin that gets laid off from the rail road during winters who is very mechanically inclined who is looking for something to do over his break.

I've found a 79 on craigslist for a very reasonable price. I've not seen the truck but with gas prices and the fact that its 250 miles round trip from my house I will be going with trailer and cash when I go to see it for the 1st time so no time for questions on here once I get there purchase the truck. Its recently had the motor professionally rebuilt(400m)and comes with alot of extra body parts including 2 extra doors part of the needed fenders and an extra hood.(trailer needed to get spare parts home so will tow bronco also)

-1st question; I seen where someone recommended getting one as stock as possible BUT this one has a 4" lift.-What are some things I should look for for bad shade tree installation?

-2nd question but 1st a quick statement; I would like to get okay gas mileage without hurting off road capability too much and run 70mph on the interstate. The seller stated top speed would be 65 mainly to the truck needing alignment but also he said the motor is running pretty high rpm's at this speed. -What gears would you recommend I know the 9" in the rear and dana 44 in the front are stock options so guessing that's whats there.

-3rd question; It is rusted and he told me his dad welded some sheet metal into the floor pan to patch up holes but what rust areas would be a deal breaker if any when looking @ it. I do plan to check out the frame for rust and I will probably cut out what his dad did and remove all the rusted areas and replace.

If there's anything else you guys think I should check out let me know. Thanks for taking the time to read and if I get it I promise to keep ya'll updated. Here's the picture from craigslist I'll throw some more up if I get it. My wife isn't too excited about me getting this but my father and brother are stoked as am I :) .

You must be registered for see images attach
They do like gas and don,t get anywhere near good gas mileage,but go really good on slick roads. Without 4 wheel drive. On the driverside. You will find the floor rusted their. If you will notice behind the emergency brake. Their is a vent. On the outside behind the fender, Looking behind the fender. You will see a bulge. That is the problem of the rusted floor. At the bottom of the bulge is a small drain hole. It is useless. I opened mine really good. You can put your fist it it. Mine was full of mud and leaves. Before--during hard rains it would overflow and the rain came in through the vent hole. That will solve your rusted out floor in that area. Check the bushings around the front axle and behind the bar(cann,t think of the name) that goes from the axle to the rear. It bolts to the bottom of the frame. Poly bushings would be best for them.Because they last longer. Put a relay or fuse that comes off the switch to the solenoid. It,ll safe you a fire from starting and they caused alot of the older fords to catch fire. Mine did. Had to do alot of wire repair under the dash. Had to take it all out. Check all the bushing from sway bars too. Check the yokes. Oil pressure,oil ,stay away from ETHANOL GAS. It will ruin alot of parts and cause you alot of troubles in a little while. Welcome to the club .You,ll get alot of knowledge help hear. Good luck.
 

NotaVegetarian

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Welcome if these fine folk don’t have the answer on how to fix it, it ain’t broken. Be glad to help
 

OX1

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HAHA, those pics bring back memories. Also notice how I set it up so law enfr. could not claim obstruction of view. It's
lined up perfectly with A-pillar (from drivers view). Not real comfy for the pass who had to straddle it though.

Those pics are the 4" setup I had to do for 460, I also had a 3" setup (used with mild 400) that used 6" tube for inline cone filter and an offset inside where glove box would be, to be less intrusive to passenger.

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It was nicer look from outside also.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

paul rondelli

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1979 Broncos are the next big hitters for restoation... and big bucks. You used to be able to pick up a 1979 in that condtion for less than 2,000. Now even rusted out 1979's like that one are going for close to 5,000 to 7,000.

With the amount of rust he is openly showing you ... you should be woried about what the underside looks like.

You are going to be taking on a very big project to save this monster. Just ensure you realize the scope that major rust repair requires.

Everyone suggested you get a unmolested 1979 ( without a lift) because up until 3 years ago ... most 1979/1978 owners used these a off raod beaters. Since it is a solid front axel they are easy to add height ... big block power to turn oversized wheels.... they where perfect to trash in the woods.

Only a very few where gently taken care off.

If you are dead set on a 1979 I would look in the southwest desert ( Arizon/new Mexico/west Texas) and drop 10,000 to 15,000 on a rust free example. Have it shipped to your location for another grand.
 

johnnyreb

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HAHA, those pics bring back memories. Also notice how I set it up so law enfr. could not claim obstruction of view. It's
lined up perfectly with A-pillar (from drivers view). Not real comfy for the pass who had to straddle it though.

Those pics are the 4" setup I had to do for 460, I also had a 3" setup (used with mild 400) that used 6" tube for inline cone filter and an offset inside where glove box would be, to be less intrusive to passenger.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


It was nicer look from outside also.

HAHA, those pics bring back memories. Also notice how I set it up so law enfr. could not claim obstruction of view. It's
lined up perfectly with A-pillar (from drivers view). Not real comfy for the pass who had to straddle it though.

Those pics are the 4" setup I had to do for 460, I also had a 3" setup (used with mild 400) that used 6" tube for inline cone filter and an offset inside where glove box would be, to be less intrusive to passenger.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


It was nicer look from outside also.

You must be registered for see images attach

Left you a message brother
 

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