Fuel Pump Problems

[pattygook]

So, my old '87 B2 suddenly won't start. It was parked and not ran for a week or 2, which normally isn't a problem except now it won't start. If you spray starting fluid into it, it'll start then stall. When the key is turned on, I don't hear any fuel pump running. Also, if it's hot all day and the pressure in the fuel tank rises from the heat, it'll start without starting fluid but will stall immediately. I'm guessing it's the low pressure fuel pump inside the fuel tank. Do you guys agree? If so, is there an easier way than dropping the fuel tank? Can I take a cutting wheel to a part of the trunk floor and remove the pump? Also, I kinda doubt it, but is there a way to check if it's an electrical issue? Can i hook the pump straight up to a battery and test it? If so, which wires and do they need to be fused?

Thanks in advance for all the tips, you guys have been right about everything else I've asked you so far.

Thanks,

Patrick

 

[BroncoJoe19]

The low pressure pump in the tank is tested by disconnecting the filter, and running the pump, and measuring the fuel flow. I beleive that it is something like five ounces in ten seconds. You can get the pump to stay ON, by jumpering the self test connector under the hood

How to use self test connector to troubleshoot fuel pump electrical problems

 

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/1396-1988-ranger-2-3l-wont-start.html

 

[Seabronc]

Have you checked the inertia switch. I am not sure of the location on a B-II but it is probably on the passenger side under the dash. check to see if the white button is popped out. The fuel pump circuit is fairly simple and the same on most all Ford engines. On an EEC system the EECPower relay supplies power to the Fuel Pump relay. From there it goes to the inertia switch and then to the fuel pump. This is easily trouble shoot with a volt meter. The Red wire from the EEC Relay to the Red wire on the Fuel pump relay to pick it. The Yellow wire on the fuel pump relay is the 12V source for the fuel pump. It leaves the relay on a Brown wire to the Inertia switch and then on to the fuel pump. On some year trucks the horn relay is the same as the eec power relay and fuel pump relay and can be used to do a quick swap check of the relays.

Hope that helps

Good luck,

>-

 

[pattygook]

Awesome, thanks for the tips guys. I'll be heading up to Virginia this weekend (hopefully) and get some troubleshooting started. I think I've got the electrical troubleshooting techniques down now. I know it could be anything, but I'm just assuming that since it's 23 years old and has a quarter million miles on it, the fuel pump has finally died.

Has anyone here ever dropped their fuel tank? I looked at my Haynes manual real quick and it didn't really offer much. Are there any tricks or anything I should probably know before attempting to do this? I'm assuming I should siphon the fuel into 5 gallon cans, unhook the fuel lines somewhere, rest a jack under it, figure out how to unbolt it, lower it on the jack, then remove it from the underside of the vehicle. Am I close?

Thanks again for all the great info,

Patrick

 

[BroncoJoe19]

you might be able to use one five gallon canm to transfer gas from the bronco to the running vehicle you arrived in. Use a piece of plywood between the tank and the jack to even out the weight. The pump will be held in place by a rotating dohicky, you'll be well served to use a brass, wooden, or plastic punch to spin it (non sparking).

 

[pattygook]

Good news! I replaced the pump and all is well. It took a good bit of time to get the skid plate and tank down, but it's all done now. I ended up putting a gas pumping bulb, like you use for a boat gas tank, throwing on an inline fuel filter, and just pumping it into my truck. Now it's got an accurate fuel gauge for the first time in about 10 years. As always, thanks for the tips and tricks and everything. Diagnostics went smoothly and the recommended tools, especially that brass punch, came in handy.