Fried Trans what now

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Elmo

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Well wednesday the trans started slipping bad while driving and everytime i stopped it seemed to be in neutral. Rev the engine a bit and it would pull off weakly but still went. Thursday evening took off with my stepson to go a favor for my dad about 45 miles away all seemed well or as well as it had been all day. Left dads and the slippage got worse, stopped halfway home to grab a CHRISTmas tree and now the fun began. High revs (2000)to get it rolling then just a few miles up the interstate we are at 3000 rpm and 20 mph. Im thinking damn how am i gonna get this thing to the house. Stubborn or stupid i kept it rolling hazzard lights flashing tring to keep it mooving but also keeping the rpm downto a max of 3000. I dont know why but we were very slowly gaining speed so I kept it going and in a few miles we were finally up to 50 expecting the next hill to be the end it kept rolling. We made it home but when we got off the interstate and went to accelerate from the stop at the end of the ramp it didnt want to move but 2000 rpm and we got it rolling again but then it shifted 2-3 and had a very nasty viberation that went away but everytime the tranny would try to down shift it would vib really hard then tranny would slip back into the higher gear and lug the engine slip the clutches try to down shift .....well you get the idea.

Now to the real reason Im here, what should i do now ? 1 have MY tranny rebuilt and beefed up 2 grab a used one ( will a tranny from a F250 be any better than one from a Bronco or F150) and save my pennies and get everything to do a zf5 swap or what would my friends reccomend ?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo E,

It is the AOD?

If so,

Check fluid level and condition

SLIPPING;

In 1st, 2nd, or reverse - internal problem

3rd and/or 4th gear - Check TV pressure

if OK, Clutch or band failure internal problem

if Low TV pressure, Clutch or band failure, possibly caused by vehicle problem or improper installation

or

TV linkage--misadjusted (high TV)/damaged. All shifts will be harsh/delayedGovernor valve sticking

Valve body bolts--loose/too tight

Any Codes in KOEO & KOER?

Check for Codes; Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

=============

No 3-4 Upshift or Slipping 4TH Gear TSB 93-23-18 for 80-93 Bronco, Econoline & F 150This TSB article is being republished because of the occasional need for the information it contains. Originally published as TSB 83-13-10 in June of 1983, this article is not easily locatable in many dealerships today; the model application has been updated. Also, The Service Manual contains this information.

See site for diagrams and figures

ISSUE:

A no 3-4 upshift condition or a slipping 4th gear may result from

•Direct clutch checkball leaking

•Missing plug in end of output shaft

•Case bore wear

•Leakage at O/D band servo piston and/or case bore

•Seal leakage at 3-4 accumulator piston

•Blocked hydraulic circuit condition

•Improper valve body attaching bolt torque

•Leaking governor circuit

•Torque converter damper/hub malfunction

ACTION:

Road test, diagnose and repair the transmission as required. Refer to the following diagnostic and repair procedure for service details.

PRELIMINARY CHECKS/INFORMATION

1.Road test the vehicle to verify the customer complaint. A no 3-4 upshift is characterized by staying in 3rd gear. A slipping 4th gear is characterized by engine cut-loose on 3-4 upshifts and limited or no 4th gear drive capability.

2.Check TV rod/cable to see if bent, kinked or sticking. Repair or replace rod/cable as required.

3.Check TV linkage (could be misadjusted long). On older models, bent, sticking or misadjusted TV Linkage will not properly synchronize with the carburetor/throttle body lever at the time a 3-4 upshift should occur.

4.Check control pressure and throttle pressure to identify that they are within specifications. Use the following guide pressure specifications:

Pressures are typical with TV pressure adjusted to specification per Service Manual (approx 32 psi using gauge block). Refer to applicable model-year AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SPECIAL SPECIFICATIONS ISSUE for exact specifications, if required.

DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE TEST

Leakage in the direct clutch circuit is usually caused by a leaking checkball in the direct clutch piston. Replacement of the direct clutch piston will alleviate this condition. However, since other factors can be involved, the following additional checks/verifications will aid in making a comprehensive diagnosis of no 3-4 upshift and/or no 4th gear symptoms.

The direct clutch pressure test outlined below will diagnose a low pressure condition or leakage in the direct clutch circuit. A difference of 15 psi or more between direct clutch pressure and line pressure (read at the forward clutch pressure tap) will prevent a 3-4 upshift.

1.Attach 0-300 psi (0-2068 kPa) pressure gauges to the forward clutch and to the direct clutch pressure tap, Figure 1.

TSB: 93-23-18 •TRANSMISSION - AOD - NO 3-4 UPSHIFT OR SLIPPING 4TH GEAR - DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION

FORD: 1980-1986 LTD

1980-1992 CROWN VICTORIA

1980-1993 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD

LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1980-1986 MARQUIS

1980-1987 CONTINENTAL

1980-1992 GRAND MARQUIS, TOWN CAR

1980-1993 COUGAR

1984-1992 MARK VII

LIGHT TRUCK: 1980-1993 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150

This TSB article is being republished because of the occasional need for the information it contains. Originally published as TSB 83-13-10 in June of 1983, this article is not easily locatable in many dealerships today; the model application has been updated. Also, The Service Manual contains this information.

ISSUE:

A no 3-4 upshift condition or a slipping 4th gear may result from

•Direct clutch checkball leaking

•Missing plug in end of output shaft

•Case bore wear

•Leakage at O/D band servo piston and/or case bore

•Seal leakage at 3-4 accumulator piston

•Blocked hydraulic circuit condition

•Improper valve body attaching bolt torque

•Leaking governor circuit

•Torque converter damper/hub malfunction

ACTION:

Road test, diagnose and repair the transmission as required. Refer to the following diagnostic and repair procedure for service details.

PRELIMINARY CHECKS/INFORMATION

1.Road test the vehicle to verify the customer complaint. A no 3-4 upshift is characterized by staying in 3rd gear. A slipping 4th gear is characterized by engine cut-loose on 3-4 upshifts and limited or no 4th gear drive capability.

2.Check TV rod/cable to see if bent, kinked or sticking. Repair or replace rod/cable as required.

3.Check TV linkage (could be misadjusted long). On older models, bent, sticking or misadjusted TV Linkage will not properly synchronize with the carburetor/throttle body lever at the time a 3-4 upshift should occur.

4.Check control pressure and throttle pressure to identify that they are within specifications. Use the following guide pressure specifications:

GUIDE PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS *

GEAR RANGE IDLE W.O.T.

P,N,O/D,D,L 55-65 PSI 175-205 PSI

Reverse 75-95 PSI 250-300 PSI

* Pressures are typical with TV pressure adjusted to specification per Service Manual (approx 32 psi using gauge block). Refer to applicable model-year AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SPECIAL SPECIFICATIONS ISSUE for exact specifications, if required.

DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE TEST

Leakage in the direct clutch circuit is usually caused by a leaking checkball in the direct clutch piston. Replacement of the direct clutch piston will alleviate this condition. However, since other factors can be involved, the following additional checks/verifications will aid in making a comprehensive diagnosis of no 3-4 upshift and/or no 4th gear symptoms.

The direct clutch pressure test outlined below will diagnose a low pressure condition or leakage in the direct clutch circuit. A difference of 15 psi or more between direct clutch pressure and line pressure (read at the forward clutch pressure tap) will prevent a 3-4 upshift.

1.Attach 0-300 psi (0-2068 kPa) pressure gauges to the forward clutch and to the direct clutch pressure tap, Figure 1.

Figure 1 - Article 93-23-18

a.Gauge accuracy must be capable of distinguishing a 15 psi (110 kPa) difference. (If this test is done in conjunction with a control pressure test, pressure gauges will be attached to all pressure taps).

b.Connect sufficient flexible hose to be able to read the gauges inside the vehicle.

CAUTION: PRESSURE GAUGES AFFECT THE SHIFT QUALITY OF THE TRANSMISSION. DO NOT ACCELERATE OR DECELERATE RAPIDLY WHILE PRESSURE GAUGES ARE ATTACHED. TRANSMISSION FAILURE MAY RESULT.

2.Drive the vehicle. When pressure is applied to the direct clutch, note the difference between line pressure (read at the forward clutch pressure tap) and direct clutch pressure (read at the direct clutch pressure tap).

3.If the difference in pressure is less than 15 psi (110 kPa), the direct clutch circuit is OK.

4.If the difference is greater than 15 psi (110 kPa), there could be a leak in the direct clutch pressure circuit.

a.The gauges on the forward and direct clutch pressure taps can be switched to confirm that gauge calibration difference is not the cause.

b.If a 15+ psi (110 kPa) pressure differential can be confirmed, proceed to the "DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 1" (leakage indicated), or to "DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 2" (slips in 4th), if applicable.

c.If a 15+ psi (110 kPa) pressure differential cannot be confirmed, proceed to "DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 3" (no leakage indicated).

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 1 - NO 3-4 UPSHIFT WITH DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE DIFFERENCE GREATER THAN 15 PSI (110 kPa) - (indicates leakage in direct clutch circuit)

NOTE: BURNT DIRECT CLUTCH PLATES WILL HELP TO CONFIRM LEAKAGE IN THE DIRECT CLUTCH CIRCUIT. REPLACING ONLY THE PLATES AND NOT FINDING THE CAUSE COULD RESULT IN A REPEAT REPAIR.

1.Check valve body bolt torque. Correct torque is 9-11 N-m (80-97 lb-in).

2.Remove the valve body and check to see if main control gasket is blocking an orifice.

3.Check valve body-to-case mating surfaces for nicks or porosity.

4.Check the direct clutch piston check ball for leakage (inspect check ball for freedom of movement). Improper seating of check ball will cause leakage:

a.Turn piston upside down (flat side of piston facing you) allowing the check ball to seat in the piston.

b.Pour a small quantity of solvent over the check ball. If solvent drops past the check ball, replace the piston.

5.Inspect the output shaft feed passages and the cup plug for leakage.

a.Apply 5-10 psi (34-69 kPa) air to the output shaft feed passages, Figure 2.

b.If air comes out of the wrong feed passage, replace the output shaft.

6.Check the direct clutch piston seal rings (inner and outer) for leakage.

7.Check all direct clutch output shaft seals for freedom of movement and for metal shavings and burrs between the seal and the output shaft, Figure 2

8.Check the direct clutch cylinder for groove marks on the inner ID of the drum, Figure 3.

a.Groove marks indicate that the small cast iron rings are turning with the output shaft and grooving the cylinder.

b.Groove marks may also be caused by contamination or burrs in the output shaft seal ring grooves, causing the seal rings to turn with the output shaft.

c.Check the seal ring grooves carefully. replace the output shaft, seal rings and/or cylinder as required, and/or replace the case if the output shaft seal bore is grooved.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 2 - SLIPPING IN 4TH GEAR

NOTE: A BURNT OVERDRIVE BAND WILL HELP TO CONFIRM LEAKAGE IN THE OVERDRIVE CIRCUIT. REPLACING ONLY THE OVERDRIVE BAND WITHOUT FINDING THE CAUSE WILL RESULT IN A REPEAT REPAIR. IF THE OVERDRIVE BAND IS NOT BURNT, THE TORQUE CONVERTER DAMPER/HUB WELD MAY BE SUSPECT.

1.Check the overdrive servo cover O-rings and servo piston seal for possible leakage. Replace the O-rings and seal if leakage is evident.

2.Make sure that the overdrive servo cover is not porous:

a.Coat cover with fluid.

b.Apply air to overdrive servo apply passage using Servo Piston Remover T80L-77030-B or Transmission Test Plate T82L-7006-A.

c.Observe to see if air bubbles are present on overdrive servo cover.

3.Check the overdrive servo case apply passage to see if it is blocked (air pressure test). Replace the case if required.

4.Confirm that the overdrive band is seated correctly to the anchor pin.

5.Check the torque converter for damper/hub weld failure by performing the weld check procedure outlined in the Service Manual:

a.Use Torque Converter Checking Tool T83L-7902-A.

b.Replace the torque converter if shaft turns more than two (2) degrees, or if there is a grinding noise while applying 68 N-m (50 lb-ft) of torque.

6.Check splines on both ends of the direct drive shaft and in the direct clutch cylinder for damage/wear.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NO. 3 - NO 3-4 UPSHIFT WITH DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE DIFFERENCE LESS THAN 15 PSI (110 kPa) - (indicates no leakage in direct clutch circuit)

1.Clean the valve body:

a.Check for a "sticking" condition at the following valves:

•Overdrive servo regulator valve

•3-4 shift valve

•3-4 TV modulator valve

•Orifice control valve

b.If any valves are sticking and cannot be free, replace the valve body.

2.Reduce the valve body bolt torque to minimum specification, i.e. 9 N-m (80 lb-in).

3.Check the fit of the governor counterweight on the output shaft. If the fit is sloppy, replace the counterweight.

4.Check the governor-to-output shaft retaining ring to make sure it is properly seated on the output shaft; service as required.

5.Check the last two large seal rings on the output shaft (#9, #10), Figure 2.

a.The seal rings should move freely on the output shaft.

b.Check for metal or other contamination or burrs between the seal and the output shaft; replace the seals and/or output shaft as required.

6.Check the seal ring bore at the rear of the case for scoring. Light scoring is permissable, but deep grooving indicates case wear. Replace the case if deep grooving is found, Figure 4.

Figure 4

==================

WHAT TO DO;

Depends on $ available; I'd stay stock with a rebuilt AOD (never know if a used AOD or used ZF has any internal issues and if so, then to pull and find a good replacement costs $ if not DIY; and DIY is a PIA with much anguish and self-doubt... That gets me big time, self-doubt on what to do when I can not DIY in driveway in winter.

Ford has VERY GOO Warranties on their rebuilt trans and engine;

Remanufactured Transmissions & Engines - Motorcraft® Brand, Broncos & all Ford vehicles 19.38 MB pdf

the Ford reman trannys/engines do not need to be installed by a Ford Dealer

Look at this Excerpt;"...Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines

Ford Motor Company, The American Road, Dearborn, MI 48121 (“Ford”) provides the following Limited Warranty on Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured

Transmissions and Gas Engines to Ford, Lincoln and Mercury Dealers (each being a “Dealer”) or general Installers (each being an “Installer”). This Limited Warranty provides that Ford will credit the Dealer or Installer for repairing or replacing, at Ford’s option, any Ford or Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmission or Gas Engine sold by Ford that is found to be defective in factory-supplied material or workmanship subject to the following terms, conditions and limitations:

Retail Customers: To obtain warranty service, please return your vehicle to any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury Dealership or return to the Installer who

originally installed the Ford or Motorcraft Engine or Transmission Assembly in your vehicle. Please have your original dated receipt for installation date verification.

Complete Gas Engine Long Block Assemblies (6006/6V012) and Transmission Assemblies (7000/7V000/7003)

• 36 months or 36,000 miles from warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved warranty reimbursement rates

• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not covered under

another towing insurance coverage Short Blocks (6009/6V009), Cylinder Heads (6049/6V049) and Crankshaft Kits (6303/6V303) for Gas Engines

• 12 months or 12,000 miles from warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved warranty reimbursement rates

• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not covered under another towing insurance coverage

Warranty Start Date

• Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines installed by the Dealer or Installer—warranty begins on the date of installation

• Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines sold by Dealer or Installer over-the-counter or to a retail purchaser—

on the date of saleLimitations to the Warranty

The following limitation applies to the products covered by this Limited Warranty

• Towing charges are not reimbursable for Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines sold

over-the-counter by a Dealer or Installer..."

read more incl the;

"No-Risk" Core Return policy means accurate quotes for engine and transmissions are no problem. 100 percent core credit will be given (regardless of damage or quality of returned core); just follow these guidelines and the return runs

smoothly.

• Returned core is the same part as the assembly purchased

• Core is 100% complete with all parts attached and all fluids drained and is returned in original package..."

==

One source is midwaypartsonline.com

also by many other sources;

Royal Oak Ford Parts shows a rebuilt E4OD as $ 1,840.17 for example, List is $2,329.

+ installation

GL!

 
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Rons beast

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Hey E,

Lots of good info from M5, but if you drove it all that way slipping the tranny is toast.

Me...I would order a rebuild from Monster Transmission. Here's a link:http://www.monstertrans.com/store/

Good Luck

 
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Elmo

Elmo

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yea im pretty sure its fried but at the moment cant find the 2k for the torque monster

 

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