Engine Surges and Dies after engine swap

[RR-Texas]

She's beendoing great, let sit for 3 days and now she doesn't want to idle, keep surging and dying, new ICM. Not sure if it's the TPS as she will still accelerate while doing all this. The EGR is non-existent so those codes are always there, I think the 2 trans codes have been there since I first tested when I bought it? Just found my other readings 2-10-15 trams codes were there then too.

The folks who did the engine swap were not the brightest so no warnings and such on dash, and no EGR system as stated. It's almost like no fuel, wouldn't hurt to change filter, but that's not the issue, cause she will smooth out and idle fine, then start running like crud again

Reader listed it as a 6 cylinder? Just don't understand she was fine when I parked her Thursday night, would be such an issue if not my daily. Been raining so not in the mood to do the bike

KOEO

122

212

327

332

334

337

617

628

KOER

116

311

332

225

536

632

 

[Seabronc]

Was it in fact a 6 cylinder?  What engine is in it now? If a V8 did the computer get changed with it?

>-

 

[RR-Texas]

Typed in a reply, but wasn't signed in, so it didn't save it!

Engine was swapped before I bought it, always been an 8 and always read that way (meant to share on the tech side sorry) she's been a great truck for four years. Most of the codes have been there since the first time I ever checked them, even when running good. New ones are the TPS and knock sensors so I'll check them first.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Let us work on the TPS first:

DTC 121, 122, 123, 124, 125 in TSB 94-26-4 "...The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle components. Check engine light, Stalls, quits, hesitation/stumble, fast idle; To minimize the replacement of good components, be advised that the following non-EEC areas may be the issue: Excessive blow-by, PCV malfunction, Vacuum leaks, Fuel pressure, Throttle sticking or linkage binding. MANY VOLTMETERS WILL AUTOMATICALLY CHANGE RANGES WHEN MEASURING TPS OUTPUT FROM IDLE TO WOT. WHEN A VOLTMETER IS USED TO MEASURE TPS OUTPUT FROM IDLE TO WOT, THE METER SCALES OR CHANGES RANGES AUTOMATICALLY. THERE MAY BE AN ERRONEOUS METER DISPLAY UNTIL THE VOLTMETER HAS LOCKED TO THE APPROPRIATE VOLTAGE READING. THE ERRONEOUS METER DISPLAY DOES NOT REPRESENT A DEFECTIVE TPS. NOTE: IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE "RANGE LOCK" FEATURE ON MANY METERS BE SET FOR CHECKING TPS VOLTAGE..."

Test, Operational Description & Parameters

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at

http://web.archive.org/web/20101201014211/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30

Replacement pics in a 93 5.8

Source: by Dave M (Bronco Billy) at

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/302/14094

supermotors.net is VERY SLOW

 

[RR-Texas]

Ran like crud yesterday, u til after I ran the codes, then was fine, crud again this am the fine on the way home. Gonna ck the TPS, but she will accelerate no problem when all this is going on, going to run codes again if she's still as smooth as on the way home.

 

[RR-Texas]

Just now getting back to her, haven't checked the TPS just yet, since I cannot locate my wire piercing set, should have been in the elec drawer. What is odd is just for grins I unplugged the new ICM and she idled down then died, so I tried the old one again same thing, so I may have a faulty part, or I major vacuum leak I have not found yet

With regards to the low voltage TPS code, everything I read states if it's a faulty TPS there should be acceleration issues and that I don't have. But I know I have to eliminate that part first, then I need to find a fuel pressure gauge or buy one Harbor has one for about 90.

Trouble is as I mentioned the folks the did the swap before I bought her did not do a clean exchange, don't even have a working CEL

Hope everyone enjoys their 4th, I'll be photographing Reverend Horton Heat tonight and then the Freedom Over Texas event Monday, but looks like I might be driving pops old truck with no ac!

 

[miesk5]

Yo R-R,

Have a great & peaceful 4th!

"Rent" a fuel pressure gauge @ parts store with fully refundable deposit.

That CEL bulb may have been removed by previous hackers.

Cluster, w/Out Tach Pic, Back View in 92-96



With tach:



Source: by Steve

 

[miesk5]

Yo, part deux

Can rent hand operated vacuum pump with gauge.

See my vacuum test at http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535

Posts #20

 

[RR-Texas]

Didn't think about renting the fuel pressure gauge, thanks for the reminder! I have a hand vacuum pump, I had just replaced both the EGR valve and solenoid, as well as the ICM. About a year after I got her she would die as soon as you even backed off the throttle, which was somewhat dangerous on Houston freeways and it was the EGR. Then no problems with idle or that until recent so I replace the EGR stuff since it began to do it again, lifetime warranty. Doesn't mean I didn't get a bad one,

I have found some small vacuum leaks. Really didn't want to spend another holiday working on stuff. Got some flooding on Memorial Day, not as bad as many others but enough it screwed up a perfectly good 4 day weekend.

So seeing as I am a heavy truck mechanic and do not just throw parts, I've decide to put in a carbureted gas engine with no electronic BS, no codes, etc or a Diesel engine. Then I can beat it into submission with my diesel hammer!

 

[Seabronc]

That's exactly the way I feel.  Never had a problem with a carbed engine that I couldn't fix >-

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Good luck on the carb. Conversion!

EFI Swap to Carburetor

Source: by BLADE262US, Seabronc & Justshootme84 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/21208-efi-to-carbhelp/?gopid=111080&do=findComment&comment=111080

EFI Swap to Carburetor; "...It's actually a pretty simple swap. Basically all of the computer/sensor stuff can be scrapped. You won't need any of it. What you will need...a carb (obviously), a new intake manifold, a new distributor, an ignition control box (like an MSD or Mallory box...I've had good luck with MSD 6A boxes so long as they're not exposed to significant heat), and a carb fuel pump. The EFI pump is way too strong for a carb so you'll need something like a Holley carb electric pump. The ignition stuff is pretty straight forward, but for a working tach you'll need to find the tach wire in the ignition wiring harness and attach it to the positive side of your coil. I know in Mustangs this wire was green with a yellow tracer. It may be the same in your Bronco, but it's good to double check. For a carb I would use something like a Holley 600cfm double pumper or a slightly smaller Carter carb. I had a 625cfm Carter on my Mustang before I switched over to a turbo'ed EFI setup and it was a little too much for the motor. One point worth stating is that if you have an automatic transmission that has overdrive (like an AOD), you'll need an adapter for the TV linkage on the transmission since AODs never came on carbed motors. One is (or at least used to be) available for Holley carbs through Sacramento Mustang, but they retail for just under $100. If you have a 3 speed like a C4 then all you'll need to do is make sure the carb has a kickdown linkage. Mind you I got my old Carter to work with my AOD...but I think that was just sheer luck..."

@ http://en.allexperts.com/q/Ford-Repair-811/1988-Bronco-302-efi.htm

 

[RR-Texas]

SHE'S ALIVE, again! It was the TPS, thanks as always for all the info! Think I'm gonna start collecting the parts to do away with all the EFI stuff. Intake needs to be cleaned, but I have a small coolant leak at the thermostat housing for next weeks adventure and I want to replace that bottom coolant hose on the throttle body. Especially after all the movement today. Didn't even take an hour to do I was just lazy last weekend!

 

[miesk5]

Yo RR-Texas,

Great!

& thanks for letting us know.

Enjoy next week and many more.