Aux Trans Filter Install

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DNBELOWBRONCO

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So I finally decided to change up from my Ford inline trans filter to a full on aux trans spin-on canister filter. I removed the charcoal canister and re-located it to the side of the battery tray brace for safety and cosmetics. I put the pictures on my Supermotors site with descriptions under each. The first couple pics show the splash shield access, to put the nuts on the mounting bolts, for the filter base. Then a few pics of the hard plastic charcoal canister hose, that I trimmed about 5" off, and swapped the 90 deg rubber hose end onto. I also replaced the other hose, on the canister, with a silicone hose, down to the metal tube that continues back to the fuel tank. The rest after that are pics of the filter base mounting placement and how it is completely protected from outside influence. Meaning rocks that could puncture the filter and blow up your transmission. Placement is crucial especially if you wheel your truck! The install worked out Great. Oh, for anyone interested the front trans line on the E4OD's is the pressure line and connects to the "IN" on the aux filter and the "OUT" on the filter goes to the "TOP" cooler fitting on the side of the radiator........ Hope this helps out some of you guys/gals. This is a "must do" for everyone. I used a Perma-cool kit #10678. The one without the gauge included. It was on clearance for $49.99 and I got it for $40.99 with my discount......replacement filter is just a plain old Motorcraft FL1A! >:) -Kevin-

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/909884

 
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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

Thanks for the pics and all the details Kevin!

Filter, In-Line TSB 00-23-10 for 89-96 Bronco & F Series, etc

ISSUE: Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.

ACTION: After every overhaul or transmission exchange, clean, flush and backflush the transmission fluid cooling system which includes: fluid cooler, auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), if equipped. Perform the cooler flow test to ensure proper transmission fluid flow volume on the transmission return line through the cooling system. Once proper fluid flow volume is verified install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) in the fluid cooler return line (transmission fluid flow coming out of the fluid cooler going into the transmission). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT CAN BE INSTALLED ON ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH 8mm (5/16") AND 9.5mm (3/8") TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER LINES.

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT WILL ALSO BE SUPPLIED WITH ALL E4OD/4R100 AND OTHER FORD QUALITY REMANUFACTURED (FQR) TRANSMISSIONS. AFTER ANY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE PRIOR TO CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING SYSTEM TO THE TRANSMISSION, FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW.

1. Clean, flush and backflush transmission fluid cooling system.

NOTE: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS CANNOT BE PROPERLY FLUSHED. ADDITIONALLY, 1998-2001 CROWN VICTORIA/GRAND MARQUIS AND TOWN CAR HAVE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS EQUIPPED WITH A TERMINAL BY-PASS VALVE. FOR ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OTA COOLERS, THE OTA COOLER

MUST BE REPLACED ON EVERY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE/WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR PROCEDURE

2. Once the fluid cooling system has been cleaned, flushed and backflushed, connect the cooler lines and perform the transmission fluid flow test to ensure proper fluid flow. Refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for procedure. If proper fluid flow volume is not obtained, refer to appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for repair procedure. The transmission fluid coolers, auxiliary cooler, OTA, cooler lines, CBV (if equipped), transmission fluid pump or internal filter may be restricted or damaged and require replacement.

CAUTION: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE KIT INSTRUCTIONS MAY CAUSE INTERNAL TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY DAMAGE AND REPEAT REPAIRS.

3. Only after proper transmission fluid flow volume is present, install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA). Follow the instructions provided with the kit.

4. Once the filter is installed: with the transmission fluid return line disconnected from the transmission, verify fluid flow through the filter. Once the fluid flow in-and-out of the filter is verified, connect the transmission fluid return line to the transmission. Check and adjust proper transmission fluid level to normal operating range at normal operating temperature and check for leaks, kinks and chafe points (refer to the "Do's and Don'ts" chart in the kit instructions).

NOTE: THE FILTER INCLUDED IN THIS KIT WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE PART (XC3Z-7B155-BA). IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THIS IN-LINE FILTER BE CHANGED EVERY 48,000 KILOMETERS (30,000 MILES).

PART NUMBER PART NAME

XC3Z-7B155-AA Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (Complete)

XC3Z-7B155-BA In-Line Filter Only (Separate)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

SUPERSEDES: 00-03-08

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

002310AB Perform Flow Test And Install In-Line Fluid Filter 0.7 Hr.

002310A Additional Time To Retest Fluid Flow Before Installing In-Line Filter (To Be Used Only After Additional Repairs Are Performed) 0.3 Hr.

 
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DNBELOWBRONCO

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Great job....looks cool.....what's the advantage of having it?
I had the basic Motorcraft in-line filter(XC3Z-7B155-BA), looked just like a "Big" in-line fuel filter that you would use on carb'd motors, VW's, etc. I wanted a set-up that was replaceable just like a motor oil filter. This gives me the ability to unscrew the filter and not have to use hose clamps etc, and the FL1A Motorcraft filter, filters down much finer microns of contaminants! The regular filter inside the trans is for catching big chunks of stuff but lets little things through and "Gums" up the throttle body. Where as this, filters all the little particles and sludge out. It will extend the life of the E4OD and enable you to unscrew and replace a canister filter, in between the normal trans filter replacement. Plus, I'm just one of those guys that loves preventive maintenance! If I could hang one of these off my forearm, I'd probably tap my own veins through one to be safe......lol >:) -Kevin-

 
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DNBELOWBRONCO

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Well just to update. I've been running this for a couple days and other than a nasty leak from the filter to the base, everything's been working fine. I wasn't very impressed with the filter Perma-Cool supplied because I couldn't tighten it up very well. Now my nice clean truck has Mercon all over the frame rail, shock, and other spots including the plastic splash shield around the tire :angry: So I replaced it with the same brand of filter I used for the engine. It's a K&N and it tightened by hand 4 times as tight as the Perma-Cool one. The body of the filter feels more solid and feels rigid when you grip it too! Yes they are more expensive, probably 3 times as much as a FL-1-A, but they have a really good flow rate and trap 99% of the junk that flows through them. The main reason I first tried the engine oil one was because of how you tighten them up. You use a 1" socket or open-end wrench so removing and installing them is a snap, especially in tight places! I couldn't get a good grip on the Perma-Cool one because the body was so flimsy and dented. I even tried to use a rubber strap wrench. They use a cheaper o'ring on the Perma-Cool one too because you can feel the k&N grip down the tighter you twist it but it also could be better cut mounting threads inside the filter too! I figure if I wanted one thing to flow free, it would be the trans fluid, even though the motor oil is thicker. Just to be fair the FL-1-A's tighten up nice too and Motorcraft is normally what I "always" use. These K&N's flow better which is nice when the oil is cold, filter great, and look cool too! lol. Part# for a FL-1-A is HP3001 and the cross reference for the FL-820-BD is HP-2010 >:) -Kevin-

Here's the link....

http://www.knfilters.com/default.htm

 
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