95 Bronco Trans Question

[Pamm]

1995 Auto Trans 5.0 Bronco. It dies when put in drive or 2nd but low and rev does fine. I can put in low gear, get rolling and shift into drive and does well, Shop said trans bad and put one in it. But it still does the same. After warm it idles lower in drive than in low or rev? This girl needs some advice

 

[miesk5]

Yo Pamm,
Welcome!
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is the LED with an overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The transmission control switch is a momentary contact switch. When the switch is pressed, a signal is sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650). The powertrain control module then energizes the transmission control indicator lamp and the coast clutch solenoid, applying the coast clutch to provide engine braking and cancels fourth gear operation; does it cause the lamp to glow?
The TCIL indicates:
overdrive cancel mode activated (lamp on), The PCM will turn on the TCIL to indicate that the overdrive cancel mode has been selected.
Or electronic pressure control circuit shorted or monitored sensor failure (lamp flashing).
sensor failure (lamp flashing).
Some non internal E4OD POSIBLE PERPETRATORS ARE:
vehicle wiring harness,
powertrain control module,
throttle position sensor,
Transmission Range (TR) sensor,
vehicle speed sensor.
shift linkage is damaged, or misadjusted

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Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader
EEC AKA PCM, computer stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The EEC will tell you what it found out by testing your sensors, and also any stored information it saved from anything that went wrong during the last 40 trips.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.
BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD 1 Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
●
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."


1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco

1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
The eight Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
02 - Engine and Transmission Mounting
03 - Engine
05 - Driveline
07 - Transmission
08 - Clutch
09 - Exhaust System
10 - Fuel System
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the Section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver
The twelve Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
01 - Body
02 - Frame and Mounting (Body)
04 - Suspension
06 - Brake System
11 - Steering System
12 - C,imate Control System
13 - Instrumentation and Warning Systems
14 - Battery and Charging System
15 - Audio Systems
17 - Lighting
18 - Electrical Distribution
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!
Al

 

[Pamm]

Wow , thanks for all the info. I brouhht a readed at harbor frieght that says it reads my older 1995 codes. I will look at things you said if i can find them. A woman but not afraid to get hands and nails dirty...lol

 

[miesk5]

Yo PAMM,
YW!
See my
See my mostly recovered Big Bronco Repair site @ http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128. Thanks to J. Schim!
http://schwimserver5.com/?index=134
Go to my Sensor section for locations & some testing;
Select "EEC/PCM, Self-Test, wiring diagrams...
then; SENSORS - Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor (ACTS); Crankshaft Position (CPS)/ Misfire Detection (MD); Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Speed Sensor (Located in Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Transfer Case); Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), Idle Air Control (IAC) also called, Idle Air Bypass (IAB), Idle Speed Control (ISC), Throttle Bypass Air, Idle Bypass, Inlet Air Controller, Inlet Air Bypass, etc.; Inferred Mileage Sensor (IMS); Intake Air Temp (IAT), (Air Charge Temperature [ACT] prior to 1992; Knock Sensor (KS); Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP); Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR); Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Park/Neutral Position (PNP) & Back-Up Switch); Throttle Position Sensor (TPS); Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS); also called RABS Sensor & Differential Speed Sensor (DSS), etc.

For example;Throttle Position Sensor:
E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; The throttle position sensor is a potentiometer that is mounted on the throttle body on gas applications and on the fuel injection pump lever on diesel applications. The throttle position sensor detects the position of the throttle plate or lever and sends this information as a voltage signal to the powertrain control module. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 167, 5. ..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve



I can add more info once you have the Diagnositic Trouble Codes.

 

[Pun]

Check for a short in the wiring coming from the overdrive switch on the end of the shift lever. Specifically, where the wires cross over the top of the column. The wires can break from the repeated up and down movement of the the tilt steering column. It will cause a short resulting in a 10 amp fuse popping and, when it does, the automatic transmission will default to overdrive unless you manually shift to the lower gears. This happened to us about 15 years ago when we first acquired our 1993 Bronco. I didn't realize what was happening until I heard the audible popping of the fuse as I lowered the tilt steering while sitting still with the engine running. I'm sorry I can't remember the label on the fuse but I do remember it was a 10 amp fuse under the dash NOT in the engine compartment. My son actually kept a pair of needle nose and a large box of fuses in his console for awhile before we figured it out. In our case, the previous owner had recently had the ignition replaced by a shop and they had routed the wire improperly causing extra tension. Hopefully, this is your problem and it's not something more serious. Good luck!

 

[Tiha]

That is a tough one, Kind of interesting that the trans shop is not able or willing to find anything else.

If it is killing the engine the torque convertor is locking up. Low fluid level can do that. But lets assume it is not low level or mechanical since 2 transmissions are doing the same thing. If you are not getting any codes to point you in the right direction then it is an electrical issue.

I have heard of people having problems with the wire harness, where it plugs into the trans on the rear pass side. Melted and corroded wires. Could be something there.
Also the MLPS, or neutral safety switch on the driver's side behind the shift linkage. I have heard of those filling with water and creating interesting problems.

But those are focused on shifting the trans and killing the engine.
If it is just an RPM change, how drastic is it? It may not even be related to the transmission any longer. Might have been fighting a couple different issues all along.

 

[Pamm]

Thanks all, just a few things that may help. starts fine runs fine, when cold the only way to get going is : from park shift to low real fast. idles good and will drive in low, so after i get up a lil speed i slide unto drive, It will shift into 2nd 3rd , OD. At my first red light( 8 miles away ) it idles real low but usually will not die out, if i put it in low it idles up to normal. I am thinking about changing the idle air control valve, Will that help?

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

JUL	OCT	AUG
	15
2015	2016	2018

About this capture

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Idle Air Bypass (IAB)​

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First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years:
•Idle Air Bypass
•Idle Air Control
•Idle Speed Control
•Throttle Bypass Air
•Idle Bypass
•Inlet Air Controller
•Inlet Air Bypass
•Intake Air Bypass
•Intake Air Control
It seemed that every automobile manufacturer had to invent some name for this thing and all the other brands had to learn it. Going into a local parts store can be a nightmare depending on which name the guy on the other side of the counter understands. Basically if you have any combination of the words; Idle, Inlet, Intake, Air, Control, Bypass, Control, or Controller you have just made a name for this thing.
Moving on now, sorry for the head ache. How’s it work? This is simple to understand, look at the following picture.

It doesn’t get much easier; this mounts on the side of the throttle body. Air is allowed in from in front of the closed throttle body, and “bypasses” the throttle body plate. The air is then released into the open intake track flowing directly to the cylinders. The whole idea behind this is simply a way for the computer to give air to the engine without needing a driver. The IAB is not opened like door half way, its either open or closed completely. The EEC sends many pulses per second to flutter the IAB open and closed. It flutters so fast that you should notice any RPM fluctuation with a functional IAB. This fluttering is called “duty cycle,” when it’s calculated a percentage of on time. So when the IAB is off it is at 0%, when it is fully open it is at 100%, and any RPM in-between.
There are 3 main needs for the IAB and a fourth that is a debate.
Starting:
•The engine requires an unrestricted amount of air to start, so EEC opens the IAB 100%.
•As soon as the engine RPM self sustains and begins to stabilize we now need air to Idle.
Idle:
•Idle is more complicated than the word implies.
•Idle needs to be smooth and stable.
•Idle is increased if the engine is cold to help warm up.
•Idle is increased if the engine is overheating.
•This increases the speed of the water pump to flow more coolant to the engine and radiator.
•This speeds up the speed of the radiator fan improving cooling.
•Idle is increased if there is a high load on the alternator.
•Idle is increased if there is a pressure spike in the power steering.
Deceleration:
•When you take you foot of the pedal the IAB is at 100% to prevent stalling.
•As the engine returns to idle speeds the IAB lowers the duty cycle to keep the RPM stable.
•When the vehicle comes to a stop the IAB is now controlling the Idle.
Full Throttle:
• The IAB does opens 100% at full throttle. But the debate is if air flow increases.
•Air now has the option to entering the full open throttle body or the IAB.
•Air diverting through the IAB would disrupt the main air flow path through the throttle body.
•I haven’t seen any flow bench test data to suport this.
•You do have “possibility” for higher flow, but it’s more violent and turbulent now.
IAB TESTING
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced. by Ryan M.

 

[Tiha]

Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced.

^this

I was also thinking if you turn your steering wheel all the way to the lock position and hold it, rpms would dip, but return and increase by like 200 rpms if the IAC/IAB was working.
Also if you turn the ac on, it should maintain or raise rpms.

How many miles? If it has never been replaced it is probably due. Clean the ports going into the intake as well.

Glad you are keeping an open mind and not 100% focused on trans.

 

[Pamm]

Thanks I will try that. Also i tried to use a code tester ( ob1 ) I think it was called and it showed no codes if i did i it correctly

 

[Pamm]

Also on the transfer case there in an elect. plung up high and a shinny peg sticking out close to the plug I see from ground on driver's side. It looks like a hose barb. As if a hose was pushed on it but since they changed the trans nothing is on it. i have looked in manual and such and cant find what goes there

 

[Tiha]

Does it go in and out of 4x4? and do the lights show 4x4, or 4 low?

The hose barb on top is just a vent hose.

 

[Pamm]

Yes 4x4 works and lights on dash tells me in 4x4, And on the vent hose where does the other end hook or should be? Do I jut put a short hose on it?

 

[Tiha]

I honestly don't remember, maybe someone else can help, but it isn't that important, I think it was a hose that was zip tied to the top of the trans housing somewhere.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Pamm,
E4OD Vent allows excess fluid to boil out when it over heats. It doesn't have a hose
Inside the cab over the transmission ***** pull the carpet or vinyl mat up so that you can unbolt and pull off the E4OD floor cover plate. You will then clearly see the little vent cap.
Some owners replaced vent with a fitting and then attached a hose to rout fluid to road or into the engine compartment.

•
Borg Warner 1356 Transfer Case Vent. The stock vent line on the transfer case is about four inches long

 

[paul rondelli]

Make sure your third brake light … the one on the top of the fiberglass top... is not shorted out.

There was a thread a while back about a guy who went through two transmission because he had a short at the third brake light and it was causing the torque converter to malfunction.

The computer looks for voltage differences in the braking system to engage and disengage the torque converter.

It would **** if a 2 dollar shorted out bulb was causing issues with your tranny.

 

[Pamm]

that sure would be bad, I'm still checking all the the things that members on here say to check , I am thankful for all the help. It still dies when put into 2nd or drive, because it lowers the idle so low, So I have been taking off in low and the sliding it into drive after about 10 mph

 

[Pamm]

Yo Pamm,
E4OD Vent allows excess fluid to boil out when it over heats. It doesn't have a hose
Inside the cab over the transmission ***** pull the carpet or vinyl mat up so that you can unbolt and pull off the E4OD floor cover plate. You will then clearly see the little vent cap.
Some owners replaced vent with a fitting and then attached a hose to rout fluid to road or into the engine compartment.
View attachment 29366
•
Borg Warner 1356 Transfer Case Vent. The stock vent line on the transfer case is about four inches long
View attachment 29365

Thanks you , a pic really helps me.

 

[Pamm]

Yo,
View attachment 29334
View attachment 29333

JUL	OCT	AUG
View attachment 29335	15	View attachment 29336
2015	2016	2018

About this capture

View attachment 29337​

Idle Air Bypass (IAB)​

View attachment 29338​

First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years:
•Idle Air Bypass
•Idle Air Control
•Idle Speed Control
•Throttle Bypass Air
•Idle Bypass
•Inlet Air Controller
•Inlet Air Bypass
•Intake Air Bypass
•Intake Air Control
It seemed that every automobile manufacturer had to invent some name for this thing and all the other brands had to learn it. Going into a local parts store can be a nightmare depending on which name the guy on the other side of the counter understands. Basically if you have any combination of the words; Idle, Inlet, Intake, Air, Control, Bypass, Control, or Controller you have just made a name for this thing.
Moving on now, sorry for the head ache. How’s it work? This is simple to understand, look at the following picture.
View attachment 29339
It doesn’t get much easier; this mounts on the side of the throttle body. Air is allowed in from in front of the closed throttle body, and “bypasses” the throttle body plate. The air is then released into the open intake track flowing directly to the cylinders. The whole idea behind this is simply a way for the computer to give air to the engine without needing a driver. The IAB is not opened like door half way, its either open or closed completely. The EEC sends many pulses per second to flutter the IAB open and closed. It flutters so fast that you should notice any RPM fluctuation with a functional IAB. This fluttering is called “duty cycle,” when it’s calculated a percentage of on time. So when the IAB is off it is at 0%, when it is fully open it is at 100%, and any RPM in-between.
There are 3 main needs for the IAB and a fourth that is a debate.
Starting:
•The engine requires an unrestricted amount of air to start, so EEC opens the IAB 100%.
•As soon as the engine RPM self sustains and begins to stabilize we now need air to Idle.
Idle:
•Idle is more complicated than the word implies.
•Idle needs to be smooth and stable.
•Idle is increased if the engine is cold to help warm up.
•Idle is increased if the engine is overheating.
•This increases the speed of the water pump to flow more coolant to the engine and radiator.
•This speeds up the speed of the radiator fan improving cooling.
•Idle is increased if there is a high load on the alternator.
•Idle is increased if there is a pressure spike in the power steering.
Deceleration:
•When you take you foot of the pedal the IAB is at 100% to prevent stalling.
•As the engine returns to idle speeds the IAB lowers the duty cycle to keep the RPM stable.
•When the vehicle comes to a stop the IAB is now controlling the Idle.
Full Throttle:
• The IAB does opens 100% at full throttle. But the debate is if air flow increases.
•Air now has the option to entering the full open throttle body or the IAB.
•Air diverting through the IAB would disrupt the main air flow path through the throttle body.
•I haven’t seen any flow bench test data to suport this.
•You do have “possibility” for higher flow, but it’s more violent and turbulent now.
IAB TESTING
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced. by Ryan M.

I got some b-12 spray and sprayed it in the 2 throats . I seen from your pic here that the IAC you spoke of has a hole the I could see in the throat. I put a lot of spray in that hole, is that going to hurt it by me soaking it like that, it seemed to idle up high now, maybe the spray needs to evaporate out of it before the idle goes back down?

 

[Tiha]

You can let the spray sit. The valve is like a motor, the shaft that goes into the electircal part, if that get worn enough carbon gets into the electrical part. That side is hard to clean, you can't take it apart and clean it.

It is pretty common for them to stick, or idle funny until the computer re learns the position and adjusts, but if it does not go back to normal then the IAC is or was bad anyway and needs replaced.

I have had to clean them a couple times to make them better, but in the end I usually end up replacing them.
Not sure where price is now, but rock auto used to have them pretty cheap.