'89 engine trouble

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Tiha

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Sounds like you have more than one problem.

So the part where you said you took a vacuum line off and it ran better. That means it is running rich.

Did you replace the leaking fuel pressure regulator?

After that you need to get a pressure gauge on it and see what the fuel pressure is.
If that checks ok then you need to do a flow test on the fuel pumps. Even if pressure checks good that doesn't mean there is enough flow. that was a common problem on those 2 pump systems. I always yanked the two pumps and put a single pump in the tank and solved so many problems.
 

johnnyreb

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Sounds like you have more than one problem.

So the part where you said you took a vacuum line off and it ran better. That means it is running rich.

Did you replace the leaking fuel pressure regulator?

After that you need to get a pressure gauge on it and see what the fuel pressure is.
If that checks ok then you need to do a flow test on the fuel pumps. Even if pressure checks good that doesn't mean there is enough flow. that was a common problem on those 2 pump systems. I always yanked the two pumps and put a single pump in the tank and solved so many problems.
Tiha, what kind of gauge would you use to do that?Thanks
 

Tiha

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Fuel pressure, just any cheap harbor freight kit would work.

Fuel flow testing, I always just used a old pop bottle.
Time how long it takes to fill a 1 liter bottle, Then convert it to liters per hour LPH or Gallons per hour gph.
Can't remember but I think it is supposed to be over 30gph.

Doesn't have to be exact, the results are usually obvious.

The 460's with that dual pump system were the worst. Everything tested fine, injectors, pressure, regulator, but the flow was so low the fuel would sit in the rail too long and would begin to boil. So you were trying to inject vapors instead of liquid gasoline. Doesn't work so well.
Symptoms often look like fuel filter restriction. Worst when working the engine hard, but it wasn't fuel restriction it was heat under the hood causing the problems.
Another, long crank times. If you cycle the key on, key off 3 or 4 times and let the fuel pumps clear the rail it would start right up rather than an extended crank which usually showed itself after sitting 15-20 minutes like when running into the store quick.
Ethanol made this problem so much worse because ethanol boils sooner than premium.

During my quests to fix this problem on more than one occasion I think I had read that most in tank replacement pumps are the wrong style, incorrect impeller or something like that and won't work correctly with the high pressure inline pump mounted on the frame rail.

I just yanked them both. Got a single pump from Summit racing. You can hose clamp it to the original sending unit/pick up tube in the tank. You can get "fuel line repair kit" in the help section of most parts stores that plug right into the line and bypass the frame rail pump.

Done a few of them like that now and the people seem to love them. It had been a nagging problem for years that nobody could seem to fix.

Any OP says he thinks he got the high rpms thing fixed with the ISC or IAC i guess I call it. Fuel flow test would tell you if the kink in the pressure rail would be causing an issue or not.

The roaring sound could be the engine fan?

In that thread he was asked to try running it with the gas cap off because it runs better on almost an empty tank of fuel. I don't see where he has tried that.
 

johnnyreb

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Tiha, what kind of gauge would you use to do that?Thanks
fuel flow
Fuel pressure, just any cheap harbor freight kit would work.

Fuel flow testing, I always just used a old pop bottle.
Time how long it takes to fill a 1 liter bottle, Then convert it to liters per hour LPH or Gallons per hour gph.
Can't remember but I think it is supposed to be over 30gph.

Doesn't have to be exact, the results are usually obvious.

The 460's with that dual pump system were the worst. Everything tested fine, injectors, pressure, regulator, but the flow was so low the fuel would sit in the rail too long and would begin to boil. So you were trying to inject vapors instead of liquid gasoline. Doesn't work so well.
Symptoms often look like fuel filter restriction. Worst when working the engine hard, but it wasn't fuel restriction it was heat under the hood causing the problems.
Another, long crank times. If you cycle the key on, key off 3 or 4 times and let the fuel pumps clear the rail it would start right up rather than an extended crank which usually showed itself after sitting 15-20 minutes like when running into the store quick.
Ethanol made this problem so much worse because ethanol boils sooner than premium.

During my quests to fix this problem on more than one occasion I think I had read that most in tank replacement pumps are the wrong style, incorrect impeller or something like that and won't work correctly with the high pressure inline pump mounted on the frame rail.

I just yanked them both. Got a single pump from Summit racing. You can hose clamp it to the original sending unit/pick up tube in the tank. You can get "fuel line repair kit" in the help section of most parts stores that plug right into the line and bypass the frame rail pump.

Done a few of them like that now and the people seem to love them. It had been a nagging problem for years that nobody could seem to fix.

Any OP says he thinks he got the high rpms thing fixed with the ISC or IAC i guess I call it. Fuel flow test would tell you if the kink in the pressure rail would be causing an issue or not.

The roaring sound could be the engine fan?

In that thread he was asked to try running it with the gas cap off because it runs better on almost an empty tank of fuel. I don't see where he has tried that.
Thanks Tiha
 

johnnyreb

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Tried gas cap off. No dif
Maybe this might be a wild guess,but did you check the hose where gas goes into the tank. At the frame? Maybe--wild guess--the body bushing gave out and the body came down and shut the hose off. To where no air is getting in the tank. Since you,ve tried everything else--I,d look at it. Did you check all of the lines? The rubber ones too?
 

johnnyreb

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I'm new to all this, except not new to bronco's. I don't know if you've repaired your issue yet but testing fuel pressure, borrow the tool at the local Auto parts store , then go to the next step. Let me know what's up
I bought a NEW MR GASKET PRESSURE GAUGE AND IT WAS JUNK. I was thinking .Along time ago they never used them and didn,t have any problems. It must be this NEW JUNK FUEL PUMP--MOST OF ITS MADE IN CHINA NOW. I went to looking for some old parts and ran onto about 5-6 brand new old fuel pumps.hahaha. i HAVE ALOT OF PARTS--JUST HAVE STUFF PILED ON TOP OF OTHER STUFF.HAHAHA
 

johnnyreb

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I bought a NEW MR GASKET PRESSURE GAUGE AND IT WAS JUNK. I was thinking .Along time ago they never used them and didn,t have any problems. It must be this NEW JUNK FUEL PUMP--MOST OF ITS MADE IN CHINA NOW. I went to looking for some old parts and ran onto about 5-6 brand new old fuel pumps.hahaha. i HAVE ALOT OF PARTS--JUST HAVE STUFF PILED ON TOP OF OTHER STUFF.HAHAHA
Well my problem was . My carbeurator needed rebuilt. My cousin rebuilt it and so far it is not leaking. The NEW MR GASKET REGULATOR --WAS JUNK--MADE IN CHINA. You couldn,t adjust the pressure and I done away with it.
 

johnnyreb

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Well my problem was . My carbeurator needed rebuilt. My cousin rebuilt it and so far it is not leaking. The NEW MR GASKET REGULATOR --WAS JUNK--MADE IN CHINA. You couldn,t adjust the pressure and I done away with it.
I NEED to get back that area and tell the people--thanks
 
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#Broncster

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I FIXED IT!!!!!!



Idk if I moved it when I changed the ICM or if it was like this when I bought it, but timing was ******** like 10°!



Timed it up right, and she purs!



I'm stoked. It runs strong now.
 

johnnyreb

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I FIXED IT!!!!!!



Idk if I moved it when I changed the ICM or if it was like this when I bought it, but timing was ******** like 10°!



Timed it up right, and she purs!



I'm stoked. It runs strong now.
I,m glad you got it running good and you let us know. Thanks
 

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