I recently purchased an '86 Bronc 6-300 4x4 and have just started going through mechanicals...Most things are original and in pretty good shape...EXCEPT the air conditioning system...had a mechanic friend adapt fittings for recharge...and he said it leaked everywhere...(inside & out) So, while many are deleting their ac systems, I'd like to repair/replace mine...and looks like a rebuild of all major components…Would really appreciate any recommendations on process and especially replacement parts availability...
Actually the changeover from R12 to R34a WOULD NOT BE very expensive,
if you didn't have leaks.
THE SMARTEST, MOST COST EFFECTIVE THING TO DO RIGHT NOW IS TO PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM AND SEE WHERE THE LEAKS ARE BY USING DYE.
When I had my first car switched over to R134a done, they told me that SEVERAL o rings were routinely replaced because THOSE are a common cause of leaks. Also they installed a new
TYPE OF orifice tube. There are several o rings and seals that are NOT
inside the compressor that could be leaking. There are even some on the schrader valves (where you add refrigerant and test system pressure.
Anyway, for parts, even though they are reasonably easy to get, I'd look at
rockauto.com for pricing if I was considering replacing a compressor & dryer, and/or lines, and/or a condenser myself-or even elsewhere. If only to get a rough idea of what the parts WOULD be costing whoever does the job, as THEY most likely won't be paying retail. That way, you'll have a rough idea of how much they mark up parts.
More to the point concerning your particular vehicle.
I had an 134a conversion done from R12 on a
1986 Bronco but it is a
Bronco 2. However I can't see that Ford would have bothered to use any a/c parts out of the ordinary for the B2 seeing as from the firewall forward its essentially a Ranger (like the big Bronc and F150 were back then).
The ONLY PARTS the shop needed to change on mine (other than the charging /testing fittings, were very minor, and inexpensive.
It was some O rings and an inserted-type /metering device/orifice.
The new orifice tube is a different type one from the original. the newer one improves a/c performance at lower engine rpm. Its sometimes labelled for extremely hot climates. (It is a variable valve and the original one is a fixed valve.)
Anyway, they were able to reclaim the R-12 and gave me SOME credit for that, (R12 being relatively expensive) and the total for that job was under $150.00 most of which was their labor, as R134a WAS and IS cheap.
This is an HONEST, independent shop. They asked me up front if I just wanted a working system or a completely new one.
Of course this was several years ago-(maybe 6-8?), so I'd expect the work to be more like $200.00-250 by now as labor rates, materials and parts undoubtedly have gone up since.
the price breakdown included :
draining the R12
switching over the parts
running a vacuum pump for maybe an hour to remove any residual R-12 and moisture-and to be sure there were no leaks
and then installing the R134a (with compressor oil)
IN YOUR CASE THOUGH, The odds are very good that the condenser is still good, and the
crossflow type condenser with the very large passages used back then CAN be successfully flushed/cleaned to remove all traces of R12.
My 1986 B2's a/c has run now ever since, STILL with all the major original parts-compressor, condenser, lines, and dryer.
I think I MAY have added some R134a myself since then, but I'm not sure, as its not driven very often anymore. I know I added it to my 1989 Crown Vic., my daily driver, which was also changed over by them-but which needed a compressor.
Pricewise the compressor is first, then condenser, then evaporator, then lines and drier then R134a.
If your system has already leaked down,. The release of the original or R12 or R134a is moot.
