1994 ford bronco wont shift

Alicia may

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I have a 1994 ford bronco eddie Bauer 5.8 engine we switched the mlps and it was shifting but not starting from the ignition. So we rewired it not it wont start it wont shift and the speedometer is not reading. I have looked on google there are so many diagrams I dont know which one is right. I have tried several different rewiring but nothing is working. Please understand replaced mlps and it was shifting the I rewired strong to get it to start from the ignition and now it wont shift. Please help.
 

ShadetreeSeattle

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Avoid rewiring much of anything till ya troubleshoot. I don't have much experience with the E4od sensors for some reason. haha. guess not too many rigs with this transmission have come my way. On that note, we need more info to help. Questions i'd ask off the bat...

#1, What was wrong before any service was done? Crank but no start? or it started fine but had shifting issues?
#2, What did you rewire? sounds like it wouldn't crank after the fact and you jumpered the solenoid to get it to crank/start?
#3, you say it's not shifting, as in the gearshift handle does not move? or is it more like you do have drive and reverse, but as you move down the road it's not shifting as it normally would? (acting like you just took the shift handle all the way past drive 3 2 and down to 1)

From what i know off the top of my head, it seems that this switch may be easily installed out of alignment, and is somewhat adjustable, even when installed correctly. there's a line painted on it which indicates NEUTRAL position. if the switch were installed while in PARK position, it may not be in the correct position whatsoever. Furthermore, the switch may be preventing the shifter from moving into drive if it were reaching it's (misaligned) limit...

Was the transmission in neutral when installing the switch/was the neutral position painted line on said switch lined up on the sensor when installing it? if you are certain of this, than it seems the questions above would help us get to the next step of troubleshooting.

Welcome by the way, i'm seldom on here, but figured i'd throw my 2c here.
 

Alicia may

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Thank you so much with the quick reply

Answer 1) it was shifting hard we put the new mlps on and it fixed the problem
Answer 2) after installing the mlps is would shift like normal and run through the gears but would not start with the ignition yes we jumped with the started solenoid. So we moved some of the wire on the mlps and now it wont start, it wont shift in drive i can manually shift move to part reverse but in drive it wont shift through the gears. It stay in first its an automatic
 

miesk5

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Yo Alicia,
Welcome!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
Do KOEO test. Post Code(s) here.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.
BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart &€ most parts stores.
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Speedometer, aka PSOM:
You must be registered for see images attach

Wiring Diagram in 96 (similar to 93-95)

PSOM & Keyless Entry Inoperative; Fuse 8 Overload, Possible Short In Circuit 54 TSB 95-14-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; also affected Inoperative Courtesy, Map, Engine & Glove Compartment, Dome, Vanity, & Cargo Lamps & Inoperative Power Mirrors

Speedometer Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "On some vehicles the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions..." READ MORE

Will bbl. Internet issues here.
Al
 

Alicia may

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Miesk 5 thanks for your reply I cant get a code reader due to covid and I am unable to do it myself there is no check engine light on and the batterie cables were disconnected for 20 mins yesterday im sorry but right now me and the bronco are stuck in a state that is not home and I am just trying to get home lol
 

ShadetreeSeattle

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what do you mean by 'moving the wires'? as in rewiring the switch, or wire harness or when you physically move/wiggle the wire harness?

Here's a link to a pdf file which has info on the transmission range sensor. and some troubleshooting ideas. it shows what wire colors do what and their purpose etc. if you wanted to take a look for yourself. if you or someone you know has a multi-meter, this may be helpful to conduct most of this testing outlined.

The entire drivetrain/powertrain manual can be found here thanks to hawkdriver.

also, have you tried out the original transmission range sensor?

one of my concerns is that in rewiring things we may have caused more problems, if for instance say battery voltage may have been applied to a pcm input. this first link above should help verify wiring.

I'm leaning on the switch having been installed misaligned, were we able to verify it is installed properly? (painted stripe lined up on switch, switch installed while in Neutral position (wheels chocked, e-brake set, all that jazz)

also, see Miesk5's post about reading codes (above the diagram they posted), you can read codes with nothing but a piece of wire, no code reader needed. it's outlined in the forum post they linked above. you may also google "ford EEC IV diagnostic test procedure" and there's lots of videos on youtube if you are the visual learner. If there's a transmission range sensor code, it will come back immediately regardless of the battery having been disconnected i'd assume.
 

Tiha

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There were different model mpls switches as well. Some come with an adapter harness. Apparently yours was not a direct replacement?
 

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