1993 Bronco XLT Front End Rebuild - Auto-Locking Hubs

[Whipsaw]

HI Everyone,
I am tooling up to embark on a front end rebuild as the bearings are starting to hum. I would like to replace all the bearings and seals, though the Ford shop manual I have doesn't specify the part numbers for all of the seals. The diagram break out listings just say 'seal' with no part number. Sourcing through RockAuto, trying to stay with Timken bearings and seals. So far, I've identified:

Bearings
TIMKEN SET 37 Front inner automatic locking hubs bearing and race set
TIMKEN SET 45 Front outer automatic locking hubs bearing and race set
TIMKEN SBK4 Front Optional Kit = Bearing B2110, Seals 722108, 722109 and Ring Bearings & Seal kit

Spindle Hub Seal
National 710453 Front Inner (there is also a TIMKEN 4250 Front inner, looks different- should be 'wheel seal 1175' from the diagram)
National 710455 Front Outer

According to the diagram, there is a large seal for the shaft assembly between it and the spindle with no part number (go to the dealer?).

I feel like I'm missing something... also, another thread mentioned being prepared to replace the seals at the differential housing due to pulling the axle shafts.

Thanks for help and insights, this is a big job; will likely replace u-joints too.

 

[L\Bronco]

Hey Whipsaw:
As far as I can find, this should be the seal (I hope)
FORD C9TZ-1S175-C FRONT INNER WHEEL SEAL BRS-18 OEM C9TZ -1S175C
Cheers

 

[Whipsaw]

L/Bronco, thanks! That cross checks to the TIMKEN 4250 - I think the shop manual diagram has an error or two (or three ). I think I'm covered with the TIMKEN SBK4 spindle bearing kit... I'll be taking pictures and matching parts very carefully when I break this thing down.

 

[L\Bronco]

Awesome! Good luck with it, the zone is always here if you run into problems.
Im heading to Boise for the nightfire nationals this weekend, but Ill check in when I have a chance.
Cheers

 

[96XLT]

I would suggest that while you have the spindles removed, check your axle-shaft u-joints. I replaced mine a little more than 20 years ago and they need to be replaced again. Note, the passenger side axle-shaft has a e-clip holding it into the differential and will require removal of the differential.

 

[Whipsaw]

I would suggest that while you have the spindles removed, check your axle-shaft u-joints. I replaced mine a little more than 20 years ago and they need to be replaced again. Note, the passenger side axle-shaft has a e-clip holding it into the differential and will require removal of the differential.

Thanks, I'm looking at that. I have a couple Dana 5-760X I picked up a while ago - GTG or any recommendations? This is looking like an all or nothing endeavor. There is a tool specified for installing the seal on the sides of the diff casing, is that necessary or will a good size socket and hammer suffice?

 

[96XLT]

Thanks, I'm looking at that. I have a couple Dana 5-760X I picked up a while ago - GTG or any recommendations? This is looking like an all or nothing endeavor. There is a tool specified for installing the seal on the sides of the diff casing, is that necessary or will a good size socket and hammer suffice?

I used the stock size Dana u-joints, sealed. They might last longer if you can get u-joints you can grease and remember to do so. I have not replaced the diff seals yet, but assume they should be easy to pull out and tap in looking at pictures of them.

 

[Whipsaw]

This may be the way to go...

Shaft seal replacement at the front diff:

 

[Whipsaw]

I have the specified Motorcraft XG-11 wheel bearing grease, decided on Lucas Red 'n' Tacky for the auto-locking hubs, and picked up a Spicer For Life 5-7438X U-joint for the right front axle near the differential.

I'm looking real hard at the front end, considering a complete break down, clean, paint, replace ball joints, bushings, etc. BIG JOB. Interesting video on one way to go about it, this guy is real lucky he survived this go:

 

[Whipsaw]

While I have the front end broken down (haven't started just yet), I want to address my ABS issues. I was able to run the ABS Codes 'Flashing Light Technique' - (1, 7, 11. 41. 42, 67, 65). I found the "ABS" thread, and the 'SuperMotors' link for the code descriptions in there is no good any more. Digging through the shop manual...

This is the code recovery approach that worked for me, which didn't seem to marry up with what was in the manual. I shorted to the White with blue Trace wire to the ground terminal (BK wire) in the ABS diagnostic connector...

 

[Whipsaw]

According to the codes in the manual...
11 - ECU Failure
41 - Front Left Sensor
42 - Front Right Sensor
67 - Rear Axle Sensor
65 - G Switch

While the front and rear sensors are available, the G Switch is $200+ and the ECU is only available second hand on Ebay. Hmmmmmm.

 

[johnnyreb]

L/Bronco, thanks! That cross checks to the TIMKEN 4250 - I think the shop manual diagram has an error or two (or three ). I think I'm covered with the TIMKEN SBK4 spindle bearing kit... I'll be taking pictures and matching parts very carefully when I break this thing down.

You might also think about ordering AMERICAN MADE PARTS---from Green Sales out of Ohio. They have alot of old--new parts---instead of going through all of that work and getting CHINA JUNK.

 

[johnnyreb]

You might also think about ordering AMERICAN MADE PARTS---from Green Sales out of Ohio. They have alot of old--new parts---instead of going through all of that work and getting CHINA JUNK.

Welcome to the club.

 

[Whipsaw]

Thanks for the vector to Green Sales, will put that on my short list. All the Timken bearings are made in USA, the seals are a mish mash of us, mexco, taiwan and one from chyna. The Data Spicer U-Joints are all US made. Need a brass drift to install the bearing races, none in stock anywhere. Going to the 'Metal Supermarket' to buy a piece of rod stock.

 

[johnnyreb]

Awesome! Good luck with it, the zone is always here if you run into problems.
Im heading to Boise for the nightfire nationals this weekend, but Ill check in when I have a chance.
Cheers

Becareful --good luck and you all have a nice and safe trip,L/Bronco

 

[johnnyreb]

Thanks for the vector to Green Sales, will put that on my short list. All the Timken bearings are made in USA, the seals are a mish mash of us, mexco, taiwan and one from chyna. The Data Spicer U-Joints are all US made. Need a brass drift to install the bearing races, none in stock anywhere. Going to the 'Metal Supermarket' to buy a piece of rod stock.

You might want to try a gun supply store for a brass punch like Brownwell,s or Numrich.

 

[Whipsaw]

I need O-rings for the hubs! I have the auto-locking hubs, upon disassembly I discovered a skinny o-ring that goes around the locking hub mechanism that is damaged. Anyone have a line on where to get new ones?

UPDATE: (22 Sep) - found this O-Ring source, and what appears to be the appropriate application. Here's the question, the o-ring on the auto-locking gizmo has broken and left a 1" gap or so from one end to the other. Should I go with 3in diameter ring, or something smaller? This is what I'm considering:

AS568-040 Aflas (TFE/P, FEPM) 80 Duro O-Ring Black [A75040] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

The O-Ring Store LLC AS568-040 Aflas (TFE/P, FEPM) 80 Duro O-Ring Black [A75040] - 2-7/8"ID X 3"OD X 1/16"CS Aflas (Tetrafluoroethylene Propylene, FEPM) AFLAS ® is the tradename for a unique fluoroelastomer based upon an alternating copolymer of tetrafluoroethylene and propylene ("TFE/P"). TFE/P...

www.theoringstore.com

 

[Whipsaw]

I went ahead and called Green Sales, they needed the Dana number from the sticker on the back of the TTB axle D-108-A (lucky that sticker survived), they have the repair kit in stock (2.ea required). Imagine that, only $98 each.

 

[Whipsaw]

I've broken down the left front to the spindle and am currently stymied by the ABS sensor and housing which is quite stuck, and blocking the last nut for the spindle. If at first you don't succeed, cut your losses and go get a cold one! Any ideas on cracking this nut are greatly appreciated.

OBTW, it appears the left front suffered a bearing failure at some point as the spindle is discolored where the inner race would sit, and bearings are Timken and relatively new. I may forgo the bearing replacement and just clean and put in fresh grease. The U-Joint is an unknown, can't tell what shape its in though it isn't rattling around FWIW. The seals at the diff are seeping and was the objective, along with preventative maintenance on the U-Joints. There is a hum, maybe on the right side.

 

[johnnyreb]

I've broken down the left front to the spindle and am currently stymied by the ABS sensor and housing which is quite stuck, and blocking the last nut for the spindle. If at first you don't succeed, cut your losses and go get a cold one! Any ideas on cracking this nut are greatly appreciated.

OBTW, it appears the left front suffered a bearing failure at some point as the spindle is discolored where the inner race would sit, and bearings are Timken and relatively new. I may forgo the bearing replacement and just clean and put in fresh grease. The U-Joint is an unknown, can't tell what shape its in though it isn't rattling around FWIW. The seals at the diff are seeping and was the objective, along with preventative maintenance on the U-Joints. There is a hum, maybe on the right side.

Have you tried heating it some and see if it will come loose? Or get a fire extinguisher and see abut freezing it..