1990 Bronco

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Dlaw1269

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I have a 90 bronco that I use as a snow plow. I’ve been having trouble with it starting. After sitting all summer I charged the battery and tried to start it. It started right up. Tried it again and it fired right up. Tried again and now won’t start. It has fuel and spark but sputters really bad while cranking. If I take the rotor out of the distributor it will crank freely as it should. I’m baffled. Any ideas?
 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo D,
Welcome!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.


With no applicable Codes ;
Screenshot_20200510-115118.jpg

Here are the:
1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive @ 1990 Ford Truck service manuals - Google Drive
&
1990 Ford Truck Emissions Manual.pdf by Ford via member 90.CaliBronco in Google Drive @ 1990 Ford Truck Emissions Manual.pdf

Suggest you download both for faster scrolling and to use the table of contents index.

1990 Ford Bronco Brochure by Ford via Dezo's Garage @ https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/1990-Ford-Bronco.pdf
Al
 

Tiha

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I would start with a fuel pressure gauge.
 

Josephocenasek

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If it cranks fine with the rotor out (not getting spark) , but cranks hard with the rotor (getting spark) I would check to make sure the timing is not too advanced. Make sure the distributor didn’t come lose or jump a tooth
 

chrlsful

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I would change Mr. miesk's answ from mom'n pop store to "big box stores" as AutoZone, PepBoys, etc have a code checker they bring out 2 ur car. OBD 1 is touch though (count blinkin lights).

I do the same as you Dlaw. Machine bearly used in summer (it is a woods vehicle used for income. I do not cut trees until the babies have left home as mature - birds, squirrel, fox, etc, etc). In "the ol daze" (pre-ETHO in the gas) I could come out'n start 'er right up. Now w/all the alcohol it evaps'n gums up the works (carb, lines, tank, etc). That;s a-lot wrk to clean so I run dry or put correct amt of stabilizer in (oz per gal) and run the vehicle till its upinda float bowl of the carb. By '90 it would B injectors or TB. U may hafta clean out ur fuel system. Lucky if it's bearly running as U can put some in tank now (I'd drain & start over?) and spray down the inside of the induction system as it runs. It can get drawn in (fuel sys cleaner) as it runs/U hold dwn an aresol button. U can hear it run better if it wrks as U do this...
 
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Dlaw1269

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Thank you! That is what I’m learning towards, something with the timing or distributor. I can handle quite a bit of mechanical work but when it comes to timing I am not too familiar with setting that. I will do some research and give it a shot. Thanks again for your time!
Dave
 
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Dlaw1269

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I would change Mr. miesk's answ from mom'n pop store to "big box stores" as AutoSone PepBoys, etc have a code checker they bring out 2 ur car. OBD 1 is touch though.

I do the same as you Dlaw. Machine bearly used in summer (it is a woods vehicle used for income. I do not cut trees until the babies have left home as mature - birds, squirrel, fox, etc, etc). In "the ol daze" (pre-ETHO in the gas) I could come out'n start 'er right up. Now w/all the alcohol it evaps'n gums up the works (carb, lines, tank, etc). That;s a-lot wrk to clean so I run dry or put correct amt of stabilizer in (oz per gal) and run the vehicle till its upinda float bowl of the carb. By '90 it would B injectors or TB. U may hafta clean out ur fuel system. Lucky if it's bearly running as U can put some in tank now (I'd drain & start over?) and spray down the inside of the induction system as it runs. It can get drawn in (fuel sys cleaner) as it runs/U hold dwn an aresol button. U can hear it run better if it wrks as U do this...
 

GunnySutton

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I have a 90 bronco that I use as a snow plow. I’ve been having trouble with it starting. After sitting all summer I charged the battery and tried to start it. It started right up. Tried it again and it fired right up. Tried again and now won’t start. It has fuel and spark but sputters really bad while cranking. If I take the rotor out of the distributor it will crank freely as it should. I’m baffled. Any ideas?
Replace the fuel filter on it and the the fuel pressure regulator. $30 bucks max. Mine had issues like this also. The diaphragm in my fuel pressure regulator was damaged. Another good tune up to do is the Throttle Posistion Sensor (TPS) Mine would stick and intermittenly act stupid. 1990 Bronco XLT 302 5.0 EFI 4x4
 

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