1983 Bronco

[ledzilla]

I recently bought a 1983 Bronco. It's a little rough, but runs pretty nicely. It has a 351W with Edelbrock 4bbl and ****** headers. I recently repaired the headlight sockets and installed some LED lamps. It came with a plow and salt spreader, too. Unfortunately the salt spreader was in too much disrepair and didn't work properly at all, along with it being horribly rusted. It was a hitch mount, but wouldn't come out. I had to bust out my demo saw and cut it off. Now I can actually access the tailgate which is in need of some attention. With all the work I'm trying to get done on it I'm going to have A LOT of questions.

 

[miesk5]

Yo ledzilla,
Welcome to our Bronco DIY site!
Ask away.
Let's yak away on the tailgate :

83 wiring Diagram: :



"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:
RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications. By Sreve
⊙

Here's the 1983 Dealer Brochure by Ford via pThe Old Car Manual Project Brochure Collection

For certain 83s, such as those with a 351 engine, see Electronic Engine Control III (EEC III) overview, wiring & Vacuum diagrams on the net by Tommy @ Wayback Machine

Also see: DIY EEC III Timing Procedure by Eric, DONOTDELETE @ EEC III - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups


1983 Bronco 5.8L 351W 4V H.O Vacuum Diagram by our friend and member Seabronc (Fred) Rest in Peace
FRIEND!



See my mostly recovered site by schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources!

 

[Tiha]

Nice bronco, Welcome.

Too bad to see it used on a plow, but they are pretty nimble and do a great job.

 

[ledzilla]

Yo ledzilla,
Welcome to our Bronco DIY site!
Ask away.
Let's yak away on the tailgate :

83 wiring Diagram: :
View attachment 31001


"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:
RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications. By Sreve
⊙

Here's the 1983 Dealer Brochure by Ford via pThe Old Car Manual Project Brochure Collection

For certain 83s, such as those with a 351 engine, see Electronic Engine Control III (EEC III) overview, wiring & Vacuum diagrams on the net by Tommy @ Wayback Machine

Also see: DIY EEC III Timing Procedure by Eric, DONOTDELETE @ EEC III - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups


1983 Bronco 5.8L 351W 4V H.O Vacuum Diagram by our friend and member Seabronc (Fred) Rest in Peace
FRIEND!

View attachment 31002

See my mostly recovered site by schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources!

Thanks for the info. Yeah, right now the tailgate window is stopped about halfway, and neither the dash switch nor keyed switch seem to operate it. Once I was able to open the tailgate I could see that the wiring was damaged and corroded, likely due to the support strap casing having cracked and creating a lot of hard, sharp edges. I'm thinking at the moment that repairing the wiring will help (necessary regardless if that's the sole cause or not). Your wiring diagram has given me some info mine doesn't. The latch switch is labeled something else in mine, and I'm thinking that could also be a cause, but I'm not certain I can identify it. If I wanted to inspect and test that switch, where would I find it? And are there possibly replacements available if needed? Mine doesn't have a rear defroster, so I guess that simplifies things a little. I'll take a look at that additional diagram to what I need to do to raise the window so I can get it closed depending on how full repairs go for me. I do know, though, that I'd like to keep a working switch for the tailgate window in the dash. I have the same thing going on with my '78 LTD wagon and enjoy it (especially because the "up" circuit on the keyed switch doesn't work and I keep slightly rolling the window down when unlocking it).

Also, thanks for the EEC and emissions diagrams. Don't think I'll need them, though. It looks like a previous own ripped most of that out and set it up with an Edelbrock 4bbl and DuraSpark II. In the process, though, they never bother to install a PCV circuit or kickdown cable, so getting those installed is on my to-do list. Found a good oil fill cap that will solve the PCV issue already, just haven't ordered it yet. Come to think of it, I suspect I might also need to inspect to see if there's vacuum connection for ignition advance.

 

[ledzilla]

Nice bronco, Welcome.

Too bad to see it used on a plow, but they are pretty nimble and do a great job.

Thanks. I haven't had a chance yet to use the plow, but my friend was joking that now that I have it mounted we won't get anymore snow.

 

[Tiha]

now that I have it mounted we won't get anymore snow.

That is exactly the way it works. I am not sure what the exact number of days are, but as soon as you purchase or repair a piece of snow removal equipment you are exempt from snow for while. LOL

 

[miesk5]

Yo LED,
Here is that latch switch;


Latch (Safety) Switch on the driver's side latch prevents motor from operating with the tailgate open.
Some claim Ford moved it here from around 85 through 96. Before that, it was on the center mechanism and was sensitive to either latch being open.

NOTE; ,"...safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983...." by Seabronc (Fred W) who had an 83 Bronco.

 

[ledzilla]

Yo LED,
Here is that latch switch;
View attachment 31008

Latch (Safety) Switch on the driver's side latch prevents motor from operating with the tailgate open.
Some claim Ford moved it here from around 85 through 96. Before that, it was on the center mechanism and was sensitive to either latch being open.

NOTE; ,"...safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983...." by Seabronc (Fred W) who had an 83 Bronco.

Ooooo... There's a good chance that's the problem. That latch doesn't work properly. The tailgate is being held in by the passenger side latch and tire carrier. The driver side latch doesn't actually latch. When comparing the latches, I could see a piece of metal that moves when the handle is lifted. I can see it move on the passenger side but not driver side. It seems possible that with the latch not being able to completely close, the safety switch won't close the circuit.

 

[miesk5]

Yo LED,
Some owners have jumped the switch
To permanently defeat it (& risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 sockets.."

 

[ledzilla]

Yeah, I was thinking I might have to do that to at least see if it makes a difference. I have to pull the motor connector first, though, and wire in a battery directly to it so I can raise the window glass and make some work space inside. Not going to try any of that until I can figure out what I can use to support the window while the tailgate is down. It's not a big deal right now, given that half of the window is still in the tailgate, but yeah, having it fully up with the tailgate down without external support is just begging for trouble.

 

[johnnyreb]

Thanks for the info. Yeah, right now the tailgate window is stopped about halfway, and neither the dash switch nor keyed switch seem to operate it. Once I was able to open the tailgate I could see that the wiring was damaged and corroded, likely due to the support strap casing having cracked and creating a lot of hard, sharp edges. I'm thinking at the moment that repairing the wiring will help (necessary regardless if that's the sole cause or not). Your wiring diagram has given me some info mine doesn't. The latch switch is labeled something else in mine, and I'm thinking that could also be a cause, but I'm not certain I can identify it. If I wanted to inspect and test that switch, where would I find it? And are there possibly replacements available if needed? Mine doesn't have a rear defroster, so I guess that simplifies things a little. I'll take a look at that additional diagram to what I need to do to raise the window so I can get it closed depending on how full repairs go for me. I do know, though, that I'd like to keep a working switch for the tailgate window in the dash. I have the same thing going on with my '78 LTD wagon and enjoy it (especially because the "up" circuit on the keyed switch doesn't work and I keep slightly rolling the window down when unlocking it).

Also, thanks for the EEC and emissions diagrams. Don't think I'll need them, though. It looks like a previous own ripped most of that out and set it up with an Edelbrock 4bbl and DuraSpark II. In the process, though, they never bother to install a PCV circuit or kickdown cable, so getting those installed is on my to-do list. Found a good oil fill cap that will solve the PCV issue already, just haven't ordered it yet. Come to think of it, I suspect I might also need to inspect to see if there's vacuum connection for ignition advance.

Try Green Sales in southern Ohio. You type it in the address bar and hit enter. Try and watch their videos to and you,ll learn alot,. They have alot of OLD FOR NEW PARTS AND GET THEM IN ALL THE TIME AND THEY BUY ---FROM OLD FORD DEALERS TOO.

 

[ledzilla]

Try Green Sales in southern Ohio. You type it in the address bar and hit enter. Try and watch their videos to and you,ll learn alot,. They have alot of OLD FOR NEW PARTS AND GET THEM IN ALL THE TIME AND THEY BUY ---FROM OLD FORD DEALERS TOO.

Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check that out.

 

[paul rondelli]

You are a better man than I ..... trying to save a plow/ salt spreader.

Rust is just about the worst thing going for these beasts.

Every bolt and nut will fight you like a ..... fat man for a chicken wing.

A simple frayed wire due to a rusted undercarriage is probably the worst thing to try and trouble shoot.

kind of like putting a 10,000 piece puzzle of a jar of candy together. Eventually you will get it done ... but daaaaam it will be a lot of work!!

My lazy ass would have shipped a "rust free" Bronco from Arizona to work on. Sure, it would have cost 10,000 but it would save me 5,000-man hours of evil ass rust repair.

 

[Broncosandpartsgarage]

I recently bought a 1983 Bronco. It's a little rough, but runs pretty nicely. It has a 351W with Edelbrock 4bbl and ****** headers. I recently repaired the headlight sockets and installed some LED lamps. It came with a plow and salt spreader, too. Unfortunately the salt spreader was in too much disrepair and didn't work properly at all, along with it being horribly rusted. It was a hitch mount, but wouldn't come out. I had to bust out my demo saw and cut it off. Now I can actually access the tailgate which is in need of some attention. With all the work I'm trying to get done on it I'm going to have A LOT of questions.

Congrats. It’s a great hobby. Check this out. I make how to videos. Very easy to follow.
Ford Bronco Tailgate Repair - Disassembly & COMPLETE REBUILD | PART 1 of 3

 

[ledzilla]

You are a better man than I ..... trying to save a plow/ salt spreader.

Rust is just about the worst thing going for these beasts.

Every bolt and nut will fight you like a ..... fat man for a chicken wing.

A simple frayed wire due to a rusted undercarriage is probably the worst thing to try and trouble shoot.

kind of like putting a 10,000 piece puzzle of a jar of candy together. Eventually you will get it done ... but daaaaam it will be a lot of work!!

My lazy ass would have shipped a "rust free" Bronco from Arizona to work on. Sure, it would have cost 10,000 but it would save me 5,000-man hours of evil ass rust repair.

This is what I like. It's more fun for me to have something on the crusty side and then work on it. Believe it or not, compared to a couple non-plow vehicles that I have, the rust isn't all that bad. I have a 90's Caprice with a decent body but unbelievable rust underneath. In fact, I have the radiator strapped in place because the core support is almost completely gone below the radiator. And I have an F-250 that used to be a farm truck that has bigger holes in the floor. Working on them doesn't bother me that much. I guess I'm a little demented given how much I like to tinker and goof off with them.

 

[ledzilla]

Congrats. It’s a great hobby. Check this out. I make how to videos. Very easy to follow.
Ford Bronco Tailgate Repair - Disassembly & COMPLETE REBUILD | PART 1 of 3

Thanks for the link to videos. I had actually stumbled across "Part 2" some odd days ago and bookmarked it to come back to it later and view the whole series.

 

[ledzilla]

OK, so quite a bit of time later, but an odd update. I was poking around at the tailgate key switch, double checking which way to turn the key to unlock the tailgate. Well, strangely enough the window suddenly started working again. Every time I test it out, it works just fine. I haven't had a chance yet to even tinker with the tailgate innards yet, so I'm not sure what exactly fixed itself. Not gonna knock it, though.

 

[Broncosandpartsgarage]

OK, so quite a bit of time later, but an odd update. I was poking around at the tailgate key switch, double checking which way to turn the key to unlock the tailgate. Well, strangely enough the window suddenly started working again. Every time I test it out, it works just fine. I haven't had a chance yet to even tinker with the tailgate innards yet, so I'm not sure what exactly fixed itself. Not gonna knock it, though.

Ford Bronco Tailgate Repair - Disassembly & COMPLETE REBUILD | PART 1 of 3

 

[lynchsg]

Sometimes that key tailgate switch gets dirty and/or corroded contacts. Sounds like exercising it may have been all it needed to make contact again...

 

[ledzilla]

Sometimes that key tailgate switch gets dirty and/or corroded contacts. Sounds like exercising it may have been all it needed to make contact again...

Hmm... Hadn't thought of that. I still need to clean out the inside of the tailgate, and, not sure how well it shows up in the photos, get all that crud cleaned off of the rear glass. I can't see out of it at night when trying to back up.