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That's a tough one..,  I think the 1st  thing I would do is jot down the block #'s & show them to Ford parts counter clerk. If it's truly a performance trans-plant motor, that would tell you & also the year. If it's the original 302 block..., it's possible the performance mods aren't...

Hi Frank.., Un-clear, are they related..?  Meaning did the noise began AFTER the T-chain cover change..? A "knock" is a "deeper" sound than a ticking or tapping sound. The latter is usually a rocker arm or lifter. You can find it by removing one plug wire at a time (eng. runn'n of course)...

I know I feel better..!!   :D/     TKS for the update....

Wellll.., you've jogged my memory..!  That looks like a "GRANT" wheel & horn assembly. It appears both those spring loaded pins ride on the same copper ring..?? Seems it would need two seperate rings..?  Tightening those 3 shoulder bolts too tight can warp the plates & cause issues...

As I see it, there would have to be TWO  wires frayed ---- 1 hot (12v) wire & the other, the wire that goes down to the actual horn. i.e. those two wires rubbing together...............  The odds of this are VERY unlikely.  "MURPHY'S LAW" states,  if there's a frayed 12v wire.., it will...

Do let us know what you find.., this is a real mystery., seeing as how it's a new wiring kit &  new(er) str. wheel assy.

"......there are two wires which connected to the back of the horn button" YES.., of course., the horn button is simply a "switch" when pressed, it allows 12v to pass thru it to wire  that runs back down to the honker-horn... If you took the button out of the loop., & touched those two...

As to #3 did a NEW turn signal switch with all those wires come in the wiring kit--- or--- is that system all original..? (I know all the aft. mkt. wheels come with a horn button kit.)  Is the horn button in good shape & wired correctly..? Would a volt meter help you check  voltage &amp...

Hi  PJ., It's not all that bad. If you look just under the dash, up at the column, you'll see 7 or 8 color-coded wires coming out of the column. (As I recall, on the later models, ea. wire has a male-female plug connector under there, the same color so you can't mix them up.) With the str...

 "Is the longer nose pump only a 1/4" difference?" This I don't know.    This pulley would be "used" parts-----not shown in catalogs.  Call Toms OR Wildhorses tomorrow. I'm sure they can help.., or send you in the right direction. Also., do we have the original harmonic balancer/crank pulley...

Hi Project..., Hmmmm..,   A bit more info please......,  Assuming you're measuring on the vehicle. 1) You might try removing the pulley to be sure there's no "shim" or "Spacer" stuck in there on the nose of the pump. 2) Ford had (as I recall) a couple diff. pumps available for a 302..., some...

Ya., a freeze plug is very likely.., beings it gets cold there.  However., if the eng. was replaced., those would be new(er). Other possibilities; head gasket failure, warped head, cracked head, intake manifold gasket, cracked block. Seems obvious to me, that's why he's selling it.  He has to...

Hi.., Ya.., there's always other issues to deal with when you make a change/mod. The new intake & carb. sit higher & air filt. won't clear the hood.  The linkage will need mods. Exhaust back pressure.., or the lack, of can affect tuning. The smaller Edelbrock (spell) is the most...

ALSO, if you do decide to "do a lift" ---- go with the 11 pack rear leaf kits. That's what I did & the ride is as good or better than stock.                                                               LIKE   www.tomsbroncoparts.com     or www.wildhorses4x4.com         Keep in mind a lift...

You can measure the distance between the ground & frame compared to a stock rig...., the top & bottom of the coil spring seats. Dist. between the rear axle & the frame, etc. Also, ask auto parts store what the fully extended length is for a "stock" front shock is & compare to...

As to  rubber  or poly..,   Rubber is a smother ride & better flex.  It lasts 20-30 yrs.   Poly is a bit stiffer & lasts longer....,  It's owners choice. Body mounts the same.  However, they don't have to be done at the same time as suspension. Whole different job. Suspension can be a...

TKS for the up-date PJ.., I think that's a good decision.  Cleaning up the "bad spots" ----- then treating some areas with rust-stop chemicals ---- then re-bondoing is a common repair. On line or even library books can get you started.   If this was to be a "show truck" then spending big $$$$...

Most panels are lined with a sealant type gasket & then spot welded.The welds have to be punched or drilled out. Sure seems like a lot of $$   ...... I might be tempted to get a new fiberglass body. Bronco Graveyard has a sheet metal  "body blow-up" in their catalog.

M5 put these addresses in for you. If you talk to Toms Bronco Parts   and   www.wildhorses4x4.com    maybe even Bronco graveyard....,  They've done this type of work (labor) & can give ya an indication as to a fair price (or ballpark) for your rig.  I would call them. I myself haven't a...

Hi PJ.., Hard to tell W/O seeing it. There's an old school repair called "leading-in" .   That's what all the repairs were done with 'til "Bondo" came to be. Really bad places can be cleaned & patched if the structural strength is still OK.  You can't do the Bondo  patch work yourself...