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That is all contained in the turn switch.  You need to pull the steering wheel to get at that portion you circled in red. You can get the part from http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=56 :)>-

Diagram

If you are referring to the flashers, they are under the dash on the driver side. :)>-

It is difficult to find a listing of Ford fusible links vs amperage rating. So here is what a manufacturer of fusible link wire has to say: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml Based on their chart, I would run a 12GA automotive rated wire to replace the old one.  As far as...

OK, had this problem before.  We will contact the Admin. Al, could you add this to the previous problem report about the discount? :)>-

Check the ground connection from the right rear line.  See diagram :)>-

The Duraspark III is part of the EEC system.  Are you having any problems with it?  That whole system was designed to meet California emission control laws and was installed in trucks that were destined for sale in California. :)>-

What problems are you having?  The EEC system was designed to meet the California requirements and I believe it is illegal to remove it from a road vehicle in that state. :)>-

Dito the above. If you do need camber caster adjustment, you will need a set of these http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Adjustable-Alignment-Bushings-Pair-87-96-2wd/productinfo/33523/ , the stock bushing does not give a full range of adjustment. :)>-

I believe the heavy duty suspension package was part of the towing package.  It included dual front shocks, front sway bar and rear torsion bar. :)>-

you might want to look here http://shop.broncograveyard.com/searchprods.asp .  Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. :)>-

OK, I don't see the diagrams that use to be attached to this subject, got lost in cyber space I guess.  So here are a few that may help you. :)>-

The wires don't run under panels, they run along the frame under the truck. Key failure points are the connectors, and the cable between the rear door and the left tail light cavity.  If worse came to worse replacement with three new auto grade 14 or12 gauge wires would not be too difficult. ...

Caution when using Acetone:  Acetone is a carcinogenic and immediately soaks into exposed skin.  If you read the directions on a can of acetone it will warn of getting it in contact with bare skin.  If using the home brew rust buster, you should use gloves.  It always amazes me that women buy it...

The voltage regulator does just what is called, it keeps the voltage from the alternator close to 12V, actually around 13.5V at the battery.   The battery's function is simply to start the engine.  Once the engine is running the alternator should supply the current demands of topping off the...

If you notice the wiring in the diagram, the "Start" position of the ignition switch runs 12V directly to the coil but when it is in "Run" the connection to the coil is through the ballast resistor or the resistive wire.  The resistive wire is pink and is usually folded back on itself a couple...

I'll try to get back to you by tomorrow.  For now, you should be using automotive wire not the standard stuff from some place like Home Depot.   As Bob advised, if that is an older distributor and coil you need either the resistive wire or a ballast resistor in line with the 12V line to the...

It takes for ever to load.

This is probably what you will need if it is not what you have already purchased: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-1119 :)>- Call them before ordering, they can be a great help.

My first suggestion, is to go to a local book store like Barns & Nobel and purchase some books on rebuilding Ford engines.  They have several great books written by experts and just the kind us guys like with lots of pictures. You need to gain some knowledge about computer tuning if you are...