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mustang guys steal the heads off the 5.0 explorer as they are a cast version of the gt40.

put a timing light on the coil to cap wire and try starting. that should verify spark. (of course, trigger the timing light as you crank it.) the ignition module is a notorious fail. despite what many claim, my limited experience shows the pcm to be, sadly, one of the most reliable parts on...

sounds like your pump is losing its prime.

why not disconnect the iac at the plug and see if it makes a difference? you could be barking up the wrong tree from the start. have you tried pulling codes? this is the step everyone skips, though often the most helpful.

my 95 has the same wheels but different center caps. do those cover the front hubs?

at 2200 rpm you're moving some air. if the tps does not fix it, i'm thinking your intake is leaking.

is the pedal soft? did you bleed the system? the abs light indicates a problem with the abs system, which may or may not affect the brake system. the red brake light indicates a problem with the brake system itself. you probably should not drive the truck until this issue is fixed.

blasphemy. don't spill coffee while you're driving.

the plenum gasket is somewhat notorious for failing. how fast is it running? (RPM)

is your tailgate dented? or maybe not fully latched? maybe try pushing or pulling it gently while using the key switch.

sounds like the limit switch to me. keeps you from putting the window up with the tailgate down. you will see it on the excellent schematic Seabronc posted. it can be bypassed.

that is a great idea.

i don't remember the part number, but it was not a ford specific part. it was less than $20. i'll see if i can dig up the part #.

i would not recommend this for a primary daily driver. the mileage alone is reason enough. if it is to be a 2nd vehicle you could not have picked a cooler ride. the e4od is an expensive rebuild. the rusted fenders are par for the course. as long as the interior is in good shape, it idles and...

pull the wheel off. grind shock mount flush to bracket. if you have access to a torch, poke a hole through the broken mount, ream with a drill and install bolt on replacement from napa. if you don't have access to a torch it takes a little more drill work. i had the same problem with mine...

how much is he asking?

here's everything that needs removing: hub guts

it could be a number of things. have you done something that would change the timing?

i glanced over your links but did not notice the resistor kits. can you point me in that direction. seems they might be a helpful diagnostic tool, depending on cost.

for the fuel gauge: the brass float is notorious for leaking at the seam. i just fixed mine. if i remember correctly, when the key is on it would peg past empty, when the key is off it would change position. fuel float